HPORT

2 cents worth,

Do you have a tank so you can run the motor on the trailer?

If you can replicate the problem on the trailer you can diagnose if its a spark or fuel problem. 

I would check to see if your losing prime first. Coughing sounds like it might be fuel related.

Installed the new trigger and stator yesterday, fired right up and runs smooth.  Hope to take it out for a run and some late afternoon fishing.

Yeah, here is a picture of the trigger I just took out this evening. The white and black wire is toasted all the way back to the trigger.  The new one should be here in a few days.  Hoping it did not damage the switch box. The box is an easy to replace, but expensive.  

No spark at times and found broken and severally corroded wires coming out of the trigger and stator harness.  I never had an issue until pushing the fuel line past the wire harness.  Did not test resistance as it was obvious once I started to check the primary ignition. I'm replacing both since I'm there and they are both problematic areas given the age.

No, the 1 1/8 turns out was dead on for our motor. The carbs never ran better, idled perfectly and ran great until the ignition started acting up and eventually quit...there's another chapter coming up later this week on trigger and stator replacement if anyone is interested.

Nice that you found a coupler, carbs look good!

Just an FYI,

Did you look at the trigger and stator wires going to the switch box when you pulled the fuel line off the pump?  Two of the wires on our motor were rotted out and the insulation was  coming off. This wasn't noticed until pushing the new fuel line to the pump. Did a search and this seems to be a common issue with the Mercs.

Good to hear its going well, same here with original hoses. They looked good on the inside and not dry rotted, but replaced as precaution. 

sstout,

Thank You !!!   

The carb rebuild is a straight forward job, just two caution areas. 

1. Removing the linkage from the enrichment solenoid to the enrichment valve on the carb. Just carefully slide the linkage to disengage and use a small screwdriver to pop the linkage off the enrichment valve.  My fear was breaking the linkage as it didn't want to come off easily at first.
2. Removing the float from the carb body, make sure you tap out the pins ( #9 in the manual) in the direction of the splined end of the pin, one end has splines to hold it in the body, the other end of the pin is smooth.  Same for the pin for the float lever. 

• For easy of removal, I cut the fuel hose supply wire tie at the pump and pulled both carbs at the same time.  

Good luck with you rebuild and let me know if you have any questions, 

John

Here are a few photos of the carbs on our 1985 Merc 75hp, If you are cleaning carbs for a problem, I highly recommend pulling them and going through them as there are ports and dirt you cannot get to otherwise.  

The problem we are having that promoted pulling them was poor idle, hard starting warm and wet lower carb. It ran fine at 1/4 to WOT, but would die out intermittently at warm idle and in general poor idle.  We went down the path of lowest hanging fruit last year, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the carb idle ports, replaced plugs and idle speed adjust and checked timing which made it better but still not right.  The plugs we pulled out were all even in fouling and wear, so ignition doesn't seem to be at the top of the list, although it is usually suspect.  Photographed each step on the teardown last week to see if there was a smoking gun, the lower carb float was closer to 1/2" height and the upper carb was 11/16" height which put it dead even with the top of the Venturi.  This is where I'm at right now, finding the correct float height.   sstout, what options does the manual give you for carbs?   Since the ground is covered in snow here I was hoping to get the carbs back on this weekend and see how it runs.  The last photo is the QuickSilver part numbers for the gasket kit, needle and seat with copper washer and the fuel pump diaphram kit for our motor.  If you cannot find parts at you local parts shop first, MarineEngine.com is a good resource.   Also included a photo from last week showing a couple of the Lakers we pulled from the South End of Keuka last weekend, had a good trip, we trolled early and put it two off the copper and spoons ( green) down 30', then when we starting having the idle issues we switched to jigging and limited out for a nice morning.

John

I have a similar issue with my 1985 75hp Mercury, I have gone through both carbs and ready to reassembly, but have no idea what the float level should be?  In process of getting a manual, but was hoping someone here has one or knows the correct float level.

The motor serial is A115675 with 14 series carbs.  

Sold...

I added photos of the trailer guides, rod holders and tracks for those asking.  The trailer hitch is 2 5/16" with a round 7 pin plug. 

For sale, 1998 Penn Yan 225 Outrage with 925 freshwater hours on the boat, ~100 hours on a new  5.7 Vortec GM marine engine.  

The electronics were all new in 2010 ( see photos).  The boat has been kept in a heated shop and has been used less than 40 hours a year for the past couple of years.  There is a long list of options, we have ~90 photos of the boat, it is best to come see it in person, day or night, the shop is well lit...

4 Cannon DigiTroll downriggers, with 10 & 12lb powder coated fish weight and blacks releases.

2 Cannon single planar board reels and masts

Berts rod holders and 36" Sisco Fishing Systems tracks

Removable rocket launcher on hard top,  will fit under a 10' door with launcher removed ( take 1 minute to remove ! )

SimRad auto pilot

Lowrance HDS-8

Lowarance VHF

Jensen sound system

Fish hawk 840

Trim tabs

Brand new Interstates largest commercial marine starting battery ( 7/13) 

SS 4 blade prop with custom built directional thrust plates ( see photos)

Heater Craft cabin heat ( hot water ) 70 degrees inside on a 10 degree day !

LED cockpit and bilge lighting

Full length swim platform that is rock soild

1998 5 Starr ( load rite) galvenized tandem axle trailer 2 5/16" ball with power winch, and new bunks and side guides ( 2013)

We do not use the boat enough and in a downsizing mode to move out of the village, so the boat is for sale, the price is firm at $ 21K

If interested,we have Diawa 47LC rod & reel combos, and assorted trolling gear that is for sale seperately

The boat is located in Hammondsport,NY.

Email :  [email protected]

Craigslist ad :    http://elmira.craigslist.org/boa/3964733744.html

Thanks,

JC

Can't believe it's time to think about spring and summer fishing again (although I see some braved the weather this winter anyways!  )

 

Can anyone recommend a dock on Keuka lake, close to the Branchport end? I figured with gas at $4/gal, towing the rig from Rochester every weekend, plus all the hassle associated with it, has got to be just about as much as a slip would cost.

 

Alternatively, if I could even store the boat at someone's place nearby so that I could tow it only a few miles or so, that'd be great as well. Any options like that out there? 

Try this one,  http://northendmarina.com/dockage.htm

John

Brian,

PM sent.

John

I'm looking for 2 Shimano Tekota 800LC and 2 - 600LC reels in excellent condition.

If you have reels or rod / reel combo let me know.  

[email protected]

John

Does anyone know if the DEC plans include making the ramp longer and dock area deeper?

The boat is no longer for sale.

Thank You,

Seth Green rigs typically have 5 spoons ( 15 points if you use trebles) In Keuka you will pull 75% of your fish ( Lakers) off the bottom spoon... We started out with 5, and eventually went to 3 spoons spaced 12' apart on 8-10' leaders. The possibilities of tangles went way down and fish in the boat stayed the same. 28 ounce seemed to work best for us most days, we use 50lb Power Pro main line and Power Pro & Fluoro carbon leaders with Suttons. The weight was tied on with a 20lb mono leader about 12" long, if you manage to snag an old boat, stove, refridgerator, etc...you will only lose the weight and not your favorite spoons... Purple / black NK's with glow ladders work well at first light.

If you want the fight, jig with light weight tackle, even a 4-5lb laker is fun...

If you want to see copper hand lines and Seth Green boxes from way back, Hammondsport Mercantile has a bunch of them. You can't beat the boxes that were built years ago, some of those guys were true craftsman.

My 2 cents

John

I would of been interested in the whole engine!!! Why did ya part it out?

We fish all year and have a heated shop that the boat sits in. The coldest day in resent history the relay for the heater quit, and the drain plugs were still in the block. so the block cracked. It was easier for me to drop in a new long block 5.7L . So now i have all of the parts to help off set some of the cost. I'll take 500 for all of the parts, we are having a village wide yard sale first weekend of June, so you have between now and then, but if you want them i'll leave them in the shop. Let me know

PS the new program is to pull all of the plugs before putting in the shop everytime

John

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On Keuka you only need 3 things to make jigging work.

1. Be on the water at sunrise

2. Be able to mark fish on the Sonar

3. Get your jig to the fish using the marked depth

If you don't have a way to mark fish, 100 FOW will work for most of Keuka. Seeing who is catching fishing and tag along, just not too close...

I know many people have favorites, but for us the rod/reel setup is really not that important when jigging, we do great with our medium action trolling rigs and with light weight spinning tackle ( which makes it a blast when you get something over 5 lbs). Having 10-20' of 10lb fluorocarbon and a small snap swivel on the end seems to improve the numbers.

We went over to Seneca Bait last year a got a bunch of Luhr Jensen jigs that work!

Almost anything that looks like bait will put fish ( Lakers) in the box.

John

The HDS5 come in two models ( HDS5x gps only, HDS5 gps with sonar) ,which one you have. From what I remember the only difference between the 5 & 7 was screen size and possibly pixel size on the first units. I'm sure you can compare features on the Lowrance website.

Screen size is a major player if you want to run a split screen, or if the unit is mounted at the helm and you want to view it from the back, bigger is definitly better.

We've been running an HDS8 since they were introduced, which is a nicer unit now after installing the latest updated firmware. I'm now just getting it setup again, but the new update has addressed many issues.

I would have purchased a 10" display, but a got a great deal on an 8".

We use the unit everytime the boat is out, so my reasoning for a larger more costly unit was easily justified, its not just a fish finder, its chart plotter for our AP, positioning link to the DSC VHF radio and option radar, engine monitoring and Sirus radio are future options that we plan to build up to.

The HDS5 beats nothing at all, so the question would be, do you want a larger display?

John

We are looking for at least 2 reels in excellent shape for 300-400' of 45# copper + backing and leader. We are new to copper and would like to get started learning this winter.

Thanks,

John

Thanks Guys, thats good news.

My better half has hired me without pay to help with her business affairs this weekend, but I plan to have next weekend to fish.

JC