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HPORT

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  1. 2 cents worth, Do you have a tank so you can run the motor on the trailer? If you can replicate the problem on the trailer you can diagnose if its a spark or fuel problem. I would check to see if your losing prime first. Coughing sounds like it might be fuel related.
  2. Installed the new trigger and stator yesterday, fired right up and runs smooth. Hope to take it out for a run and some late afternoon fishing.
  3. Yeah, here is a picture of the trigger I just took out this evening. The white and black wire is toasted all the way back to the trigger. The new one should be here in a few days. Hoping it did not damage the switch box. The box is an easy to replace, but expensive.
  4. No spark at times and found broken and severally corroded wires coming out of the trigger and stator harness. I never had an issue until pushing the fuel line past the wire harness. Did not test resistance as it was obvious once I started to check the primary ignition. I'm replacing both since I'm there and they are both problematic areas given the age.
  5. No, the 1 1/8 turns out was dead on for our motor. The carbs never ran better, idled perfectly and ran great until the ignition started acting up and eventually quit...there's another chapter coming up later this week on trigger and stator replacement if anyone is interested.
  6. Nice that you found a coupler, carbs look good! Just an FYI, Did you look at the trigger and stator wires going to the switch box when you pulled the fuel line off the pump? Two of the wires on our motor were rotted out and the insulation was coming off. This wasn't noticed until pushing the new fuel line to the pump. Did a search and this seems to be a common issue with the Mercs.
  7. Good to hear its going well, same here with original hoses. They looked good on the inside and not dry rotted, but replaced as precaution.
  8. sstout, Thank You !!! The carb rebuild is a straight forward job, just two caution areas. Removing the linkage from the enrichment solenoid to the enrichment valve on the carb. Just carefully slide the linkage to disengage and use a small screwdriver to pop the linkage off the enrichment valve. My fear was breaking the linkage as it didn't want to come off easily at first. Removing the float from the carb body, make sure you tap out the pins ( #9 in the manual) in the direction of the splined end of the pin, one end has splines to hold it in the body, the other end of the pin is smooth. Same for the pin for the float lever. For easy of removal, I cut the fuel hose supply wire tie at the pump and pulled both carbs at the same time. Good luck with you rebuild and let me know if you have any questions, John
  9. Here are a few photos of the carbs on our 1985 Merc 75hp, If you are cleaning carbs for a problem, I highly recommend pulling them and going through them as there are ports and dirt you cannot get to otherwise. The problem we are having that promoted pulling them was poor idle, hard starting warm and wet lower carb. It ran fine at 1/4 to WOT, but would die out intermittently at warm idle and in general poor idle. We went down the path of lowest hanging fruit last year, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the carb idle ports, replaced plugs and idle speed adjust and checked timing which made it better but still not right. The plugs we pulled out were all even in fouling and wear, so ignition doesn't seem to be at the top of the list, although it is usually suspect. Photographed each step on the teardown last week to see if there was a smoking gun, the lower carb float was closer to 1/2" height and the upper carb was 11/16" height which put it dead even with the top of the Venturi. This is where I'm at right now, finding the correct float height. sstout, what options does the manual give you for carbs? Since the ground is covered in snow here I was hoping to get the carbs back on this weekend and see how it runs. The last photo is the QuickSilver part numbers for the gasket kit, needle and seat with copper washer and the fuel pump diaphram kit for our motor. If you cannot find parts at you local parts shop first, MarineEngine.com is a good resource. Also included a photo from last week showing a couple of the Lakers we pulled from the South End of Keuka last weekend, had a good trip, we trolled early and put it two off the copper and spoons ( green) down 30', then when we starting having the idle issues we switched to jigging and limited out for a nice morning. John
  10. I have a similar issue with my 1985 75hp Mercury, I have gone through both carbs and ready to reassembly, but have no idea what the float level should be? In process of getting a manual, but was hoping someone here has one or knows the correct float level. The motor serial is A115675 with 14 series carbs.
  11. I added photos of the trailer guides, rod holders and tracks for those asking. The trailer hitch is 2 5/16" with a round 7 pin plug.
  12. For sale, 1998 Penn Yan 225 Outrage with 925 freshwater hours on the boat, ~100 hours on a new 5.7 Vortec GM marine engine. The electronics were all new in 2010 ( see photos). The boat has been kept in a heated shop and has been used less than 40 hours a year for the past couple of years. There is a long list of options, we have ~90 photos of the boat, it is best to come see it in person, day or night, the shop is well lit... 4 Cannon DigiTroll downriggers, with 10 & 12lb powder coated fish weight and blacks releases. 2 Cannon single planar board reels and masts Berts rod holders and 36" Sisco Fishing Systems tracks Removable rocket launcher on hard top, will fit under a 10' door with launcher removed ( take 1 minute to remove ! ) SimRad auto pilot Lowrance HDS-8 Lowarance VHF Jensen sound system Fish hawk 840 Trim tabs Brand new Interstates largest commercial marine starting battery ( 7/13) SS 4 blade prop with custom built directional thrust plates ( see photos) Heater Craft cabin heat ( hot water ) 70 degrees inside on a 10 degree day ! LED cockpit and bilge lighting Full length swim platform that is rock soild 1998 5 Starr ( load rite) galvenized tandem axle trailer 2 5/16" ball with power winch, and new bunks and side guides ( 2013) We do not use the boat enough and in a downsizing mode to move out of the village, so the boat is for sale, the price is firm at $ 21K If interested,we have Diawa 47LC rod & reel combos, and assorted trolling gear that is for sale seperately The boat is located in Hammondsport,NY. Email : [email protected] Craigslist ad : http://elmira.craigslist.org/boa/3964733744.html Thanks, JC
  13. Try this one, http://northendmarina.com/dockage.htm John
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