markmonkey1

Back when I was researching, I asked Lowrance which transducer is best for targeting fish (Ontario salmon) at depths of 40 to 150 ft down. Also, I'd use it on Lake Erie and target fish 30-60 ft down, in water < 100ft deep. They recommended the 50/200 kHz xducer. They also make an 83/200, but the 50/200 is supposed to be better for deeper water. I love mine! The 200 is used for shallow water, and the lower freq (50 or 83) for deeper. But the 83/200 will work and many folks use that. I have been told the HDS5 5" screen is kinda small when both GPS and sonar are up, those folks said they wished they would have got the 7"---so that's why I did. Hope I didn't confuse you! There's another forum website thehulltruth.com which discusses specifics on the transducers if your interested in more detail... Good luck!

I can't speak of the others, but I love my Lowrance HDS-7 Gen2. It's processor is fast, which means no lag when panning. The 7" screen is plenty good. I recommend the 50khz transducer for deep water trolling.

So--- if you're in 250-300 fow, just drop riggers to the lowest marks on the graph...assuming their lakers? Don't imagine you'd bounce bottom at that fow... Or in general is 300 fow too far out for lakers? And we should fish where I can work lures near the bottom?

It shows them both, I haven't had it on the water yet, it will be interesting to compare...Also have a depth raider... So now 3 speeds to watch! My older x71 used a paddlewheel and I always used that over my GPS speed. Note, the p66 transducer got real good reviews. No complaints from me!

Here is Lowrance's reply in case anyone else needs this info: ************ Transducer type: You will need to select 5K. SOG: Press menu twice, enter on page, enter on edit data overlay, press menu, enter on add, enter on sonar, enter on water speed. UPDATE---simple instructions and worked like a charm!!!!

Mine has SOG thru the GPS which came on automatically. I think I need to activate a gauge for onscreen display of SOW... Just haven't figured out how. I emailed lowrance...

I switched to Seaguard last year and much less break offs...less lost gear... Love that stuff! I've actually had some hooks straighten and some break while the leader held!!!

Can anyone tell me how to setup a Lowrance HDS7 Gen2 to read the Airmar paddlewheel (sog, speed over water)?

I use reel clamps on mine, but just for extra support if I ever catch a big fish! Mine aren't loose. The stainless clamp goes around the rod, then 2 bolts secure it to the reel base.

When running this rig, do you normally put ~all~ the copper in the water, every time? If I have the 15ft of heavy mono b/w the copper and backing, to attach to the planer release, I would let out to use this amount out every time, right?

That's a good idea on the small bands...I know exactly what you're talking about-- might have to raid my daughters "loom" bracelet making kit.

Ran this setup for first time and our releases alone wouldn't hold the true-trip 40's. Water was calm but the lines kept pulling free with no fish. So we switched to rubber bands on the line, the rubber band was in the release pads --still wouldn't hold. We finally attached the fishing line to the release clip with the rubber band (didn't use the pad but instead inside the curtain rod holder) but this made it a pain to change lures since the bands wouldn't break when yanking on them. (inside lines, which also wouldn't release, were in the way). I think I need releases with more tension? Q: What release type or what technique is best for attaching true-trip divers to big planer board line?

When you run copper, do you put the "copper-to-backing" swivel at the water? I'm wondering if I can get by with the 45 series reel if I use less backing (at the risk of getting spooled!) I'll have to check, I think my 10 color LC is on a 45 series reel. It's tight but it works.

I have an Okuma madga pro 45dx. Big enough?

Thanks John. I like that "reverse" approach to eliminate the guesswork. Mark

I'm setting up my first copper rig. What type of backing and lb test do you folks like? How much backing for 300 ft copper? I think I have some leftover ripcord braid lying around....

For swivels/clips to attach to the ~lure~, I use the smallest you can get with ball bearings and welded rings. I personally prefer SPRO (size2) or Sampo (bx1) with coastlock clips, but they're not cheap. (I know these sizes only bec. I just bought some.) I've heard good things about Dreamweaver and plan to try some this year. The other end of the leader (i.e. up from the spoon attached to diver or flasher) I use a larger swivel, easier to handle.

I've always heard that lakers are ol' reliable...what's a good program to start with if I want to target them in the mid-summer? ---Big spoon at 39 degrees and 1.5 mph at the ball? What depth do you typically run a bottom bouncer at? (I tried bouncing dipsys off the bottom once in 50-60 fow, that didn't end well!) In general, if the bite's gone cold or you quit marking fish ---before changing location and while all the gear's still out, is it worth dropping the riggers deep and slow troll your king rigs for a laker? Anyone have success doing this?

Note the the dipsy will dive deeper on a lower setting #. Be sure to look at a dive chart to match line out & setting with desired depth.

Replacing rigger wire on downriggers. What the correct way to secure it around the spool? I think last time I wrapped it around 3x then crimped it in a sleeve (?) but that was a long time ago......

Does anyone know if these have a welded splitring? Looking at the ds-4 and ds-6 http://www.dreamweaverlures.com/shop/accessories/terminal-tackle/swivels