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Trolling82

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Posts posted by Trolling82

  1. I know there's a lot of talk on the Lake O forum about this, but I think they're a bit overkill for the fingerlakes. I'm looking to get probably a 450 ft setup (45lb). Targeting depths between 50-75 feet. If I get 2 setups, I'm probably going to run them from the outer ends of the rocket launcher.

    1 : If I run two rigs from my launcher, can I put dypsys on them to spread them out farther? I'm not to keen on running off from the planers. Hear the tight bend at the release stresses the copper line.

    2 : Do I need backing? Don't really see a 10lb laker making any kind of a run on copper.

    3 : How long of a leader? (10lb test ok?)

    4 : Reel.... Under $100.... Closer to $50 the happier I am! ;)

  2. I used to have a 24' penn yan cuddy cabin flying bridge. Yanked the 350 out of it and put in a little 4 cylinder perkins diesel. 28 hp if I remember right. Maxed out at 8 mph. Could troll all day idling and only burn 1/4 gallon diesel an hour though! Worked great for trolling fingerlakes. Thing I hated was that tunnel drive. Could never get used to it. Practically no steering in reverse and you had to be motoring it to steer forward. Other than that, was an excellent fishing platform!

  3. Found this ad on craigslist if anyone wants to jump on it! Don't bother contacting me as I won't be able to help much! :D

    (3) Great Lakes Down Rigger rod & counter reels (47LC) $75 each.

    (2) Daiwa Direct Drive rod & counter reels (SG27LC and SG47LC) $75 each.

    (3) Penn rod & reels (47) $60 each.

    (1) Penn rod & reel (330GT) with lead line $80.

    (2) Daiwa SeaLine (27H) rod & reels $60 each.

    Marine antenna $50.

    Cannon Down Rigger 2 ft. boom with 4 ft. extension $125.

    Game Fisher 3 hp. boat motor $250.

    Other items include: Outboard motor bracket; tackle box full of trolling lures; (20) 2 1/2 lb. lead weights $2.50 each; new fish line, anchor, plus numerous other itmes.

    Phone: 570-537-2413

    Gillett PA posted 2/3

  4. WOOHOO!!! Got me a kicker bracket! One of those up and down ones, not hydraulic. 15hp max. Got it off ebay for 28, plus 20 shipping from florida = $48 total! One less thing to worry about! Now just get the outboard and figure out how to steer it......

  5. I'll try to get a pic of the weights I'm using on here. Can't find them anywhere. Came with the boat. They are like a cross between a shark and a torpedo. Think of a torpedo with a high back. Hopefully in another month or two I'll be able to tell you how they work! :clap:

    I don't want no spinning!!!! :@

  6. This is my first year running four riggers. Usually just ran two. What I'm using are the shark weights. They have an adjustable tail to fan the outer riggers farther out. Also, they are supposed to track a lot better in turns than the conventional ball. I checked out a site that had the wingers you are talking about. If you already have cannonballs, I would say go ahead and try them. They don't look too expensive and should work just fine. Only thing I would consider is the additional blow back from not just the cannonball, but the winger as well. If you are looking into options, I would also check out the adjustable shark weights and make a choice from there. Wish I could help out more! :beer::yes:

  7. Lakebound I use a hummingbird 5 series now for about 4 years. Only times I have problems is in Seneca when every now and then in deep water it will go from saying 200 fow to no bottom! :o I thought it had something to do with seneca in particular (magnetic feedback, atmospheric conditions, floating bodies, naval experiments).

  8. I didn't think about the kicker turning to make up the change in distance. Good point. I assume you could do the same when you raise the i/o to trailer. Kicker will just turn to whatever length it ends up. Good thinking! Starting to like the idea more!

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