mdrducks

The cable is froze. Now what?

About 40 stink bugs spent the winter in my controls. The throttle worked a few times and then jammed. I'm guessing I smashed a few stink bugs and the throttle locked in place (or could be a coincidence). I disassembled and cleaned what I could see... the cleaning did no good. Any ideas on what to do? Anyone know what style control this is in case I need to order a new one? Thanks

6 lbs that was what I was looking for... thanks

Everything is ready and looking for finishing touches. How do you guys set your dipsy's? I have all mine (mag dipsys) set at 10 pounds on a slow pull measured on a hand scale. Anyone else have any suggestions lighter/heavier. Mostly pull flashers and flies.

Any suggestions as to a launch? I have a 20' lund.

Planning to run up and fish either Cayuga or Seneca tomorrow 3.11. Is the T-falls launch open? Can you get a boat in anywhere on Cayuga? If Cayuga is not an option can someone give me a starter for Seneca. Never fished it before. My camp is half way between Cayuga and Seneca so I'd prefer to stick to the south end. Any help would be appreciated...

Putting the shotgun away and getting the rods out tomorrow. Planning to launch out of T-falls in the am. Anyone else going to be out? I have a new radio, I'd like to confirm is working. What channel are you guys on. Anyone have any suggestion as to where to start and with what. I have copper, leadcore, dr, and big boards. Thanks, Matt ....The Debander

I'm struggling trying to wire HDS 5 to radio. The HDS 5 has 5 wires - yellow TX (+) - blue TX (-) - orange RX (-) - green RX (-) - shield (ground) I have 2 radios; each on a differnt boat Cobra MR F75 has a GPS jack that plugs to radio. Jack wires are red and black Uniden - orange = external speaker + - black = external speaker - - green = GPS data in - red = DC +13.8 V - bare wire = PA - (GND) - brown = PA + - blue = NA Can someone help with what wires go to which for each radio?

The speed problem has to do more with the 2 stroke bogging up at low rpm. I need to open it up every so often to flush it, it will also vary rpm as it starts to bog down. I have changed plugs and taken motor to marine mechanic to have carb cleaned. I don't want to spend anymore money on this motor. Time for a 4 stroke. [ Post made via iPhone ]

I currently have a 20' alaskan with a '75 evinrude 9.9 for trolling. The trottle is very touchy at low speeds. It is a pain to keep a steady speed, always having to get up to adjust trottle. I am considering moving to a 4 stroke. I have found a barely used 2005 Honda 15 HP tiller, electric start, long shaft. I would add a controllking from cabelas which are on sale now. Is 15 HP to much for an aluminum boat? When fishing for browns on big O or lakers in finger lakes, I'm typically trolling at or less than 2mph. Or should I just wait for a 9.9 Thanks

Paul, That's the help I'm looking for. In central PA, not many resources for salmon fishing. Great to have this site as a reference so I don't have to learn the hard way. I have limited time to fish and would rather spend it trolling than untangling gear. I'll run a lead core, 300' copper, dr, dr, dipsy, and another 300' copper. I can swap rods according to whats working. Matt

Does anyone have the dimensions? I'm from PA, boards are in NY.

Can I get away with running 2 - 300' copper lines on 1 otter board? Do I need a second keel to pull both coppers? If so, does anyone have the dimensions of the keel. I should be a be able to make a second keep at the shop. Again any help would be appreciated.

I have couple college buddies coming up this weekend and would like to add 2 rods to the spread. Right now I'm running 2 riggers and 2 - 300' coppers on otter boards. Can I slip a dipsy with a mag ring between rigger and copper? Or am I asking for trouble? Any other suggestion would be appreicated.

I have a 20' lund alaskan, center console, with HDS 5. 2 walker riggers with 4' boom are set to side on stern. I recently set up an old style cannon speed and temp (SNT) unit. Prior to SNT, I trolled 2.5-2.8 SOG. With SNT at ball at 2.5, I'm now at 3.0-3.2 SOG. At 2.5 at ball, I cannot see ball below 40' on HDS and definitely not probe because of blowback. When running, I typically loose bottom, and definitely cannot see fish. This past weekend I ran right past fish, 50' in 80' fow. Never saw them. I'm looking for help on transducer placement or whether I need to extend transducer farther below hull. I think may problem is the angle of boat bottom changes between running and trolling. Any help would be appreciated.

First time for browns this weekend. I believe I'm rigged properly on my 20' lund alaskan, among safety equip... I've installed a radio, speed temp at ball, mast, rod holders, and picked up a pair of otter boards. I've fished the oak with average catches for salmon and steelhead but never Rochester or for browns. Should I stick with familiar water around the oak or head toward Rochester where there have been reports of some fish being caught. Any help would be appreiciated, I'm trailering up from PA. Probably only time to get on the water before June. If Rochester area... what launch and which direction should I head? Feel free to PM me. Planning to leave Saturday early. Thanks again

Fished Saturday... We had a slow day as well. Lauched at T-falls around 7:30 and trolled south. Started in close running boards to shore... nothing on a south or north troll. Started working to deeper water and marked a few dense spots of fish, the sonar lite from 25' to 50'. Not sure what it was, didn't look like bait. Ran sticks off boards early. In 80'+ switch to a downrigger with flasher/fly and dipsy with evil eyes. Just couldnt' get the right pattern. Anyone have any luck Saturday? Overall, had a good time. First time running a planer mast on boat and glad had a trial run on fingerlakes. Need to switch from used downrigger wire to dacron. Too heavy. Wind blew us off in the afternoon.

My question real questions is how deep can I expect my cannon speed temp to properly operate at without coated cable on a walker downrigger. I rarely fish below 80' on Ontatio. Do I need coated or can I get away with bare wire?

I have a set of walker's on my boat and my dad gave me his old cannon speed temp. From what I've read 1. walkers don't do well with coated cable 2. cannon needs coated cable to work properly. So, if I was to elect to go without coated cable. How deep could I expect speed temp to operate at? Any other options or suggestions?

I have 2 electric walker downriggers on a 20' lund alaskan. The downriggers have a black box hooked up. I am looking to install a cannon speed temp gauge this afternoon. I am planning to replace one bare downrigger cable with coated cable to run the speed temp. Will the black box still work on the coated cable? Will the black box and speed/temp unit interfere with each other. Or will I have to run the black box off just the bare downrigger? Or not at all? thanks

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