BullGator

I use an old FishHawk 840 to get temp and speed at the ball. Inexpensive, accurate, and sure beats guessing.

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I am a MerCruiser guy, but it looks to me like you would be ok. Your ratio from the V6 drive is 1.10 to 1. The V8 drive is 1.16 to 1. They are very close. Using the V6 drive, your rpms at max wot would be slightly less, if at all. I doubt the difference would be very noticeable.

For comparison, a Merc (Alpha 1, gen 1) 6cyl drive is typically 1.65 to 1, while a V8 drive is 1.5 to 1. As you can see, there is quite a bit more difference between the 6 and 8.

Hopefully an OMC lover will chime in to verify....

But to answer your question, a prop change will put the rpms exactly where you want them.

One?

Bump to top. Best offer.

Take off the whale tail and give it a try then. It should only be secured by 4 bolts. Whale tails are of help to only a handful of hull designs. It is not factory.

As mentioned, weight distribution is always to be considered. As is a waterlogged transom.

If you cant verify that the propeller is correct, borrow a stock one from someone with a similar engine package. Trial and error is the only way to select a prop. Period.

Not mentioned, but something I have run into: Alpha one (gen 1) outdrives all look the same, however there is at least 4 different gear ratios. If it has been swapped for a v8 version, she will act like you are towing your anchor.

Your boat requires a 1.84 ratio drive. PM me if you need more info on determining this...

Pulls to left huh? When you hold the wheel straight is the boat tipped to left? This would indicate a trim tab is stuck. The trim tabs are flat aluminum panels affixed to the outboard edges of your transom. They will have a small hydraulic cylinder attached to them.

The anode above the prop is not adjustable. It is sacrificial metal to attract corrosion. It is not a trim tab.

Wow guys thanks! I had never heard anything about bleeding out the fish before, certainly glad I posted the question.

I did some research online, and also found some youtube videos on the subject as well.

Even if I can't or don't want to eat all of the fish caught, I give them away. I was surprised to learn last year that the survival rate of boated fish was very low, so I feel compelled to make sure they are not wasted.

Thanks again!

Wow, that was a wake up call......Thanks skipper

http://www.buyfishingstuff.com/okumacombos.shtml

Last year I used the Okuma Magda 30D reel with 1000' of 27lb wire and an Okuma 9' Classic Pro Dipsey Diver (or Mooching) rod with a twili tip. Two complete setups cost me about $150 and put fish on the boat.

I did step up to the Convector line of Okuma reel for this year, I just like the handle better.

There is an old saying like "once you go wire you won't go back"...........or something like that. But seriously, it is just awesome to reel in a king on wire.

Lets just say you are out for the day fishing for kings, browns, steelies, etc. and plan to eat your catch when you get home or even freeze for later. At the launch I have seen guys pull their catch out of live wells, iced coolers and plain ole' coffin boxes like my boat has.

Once landed, some guys whack them with the bat first, others throw 'em in the box live.

What is your preference?

Bump

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Silly fisherman...................................

Hotter plugs are often used in engines that have an excessive amount of blow-by, caused by cylinder wear or piston/ring wear, and valve wear in 4-stroke engines. The result is lower compression, which in turn lowers the "volatility" of the ignition explosion. Over time, the spark plugs will become loaded up with mineral deposits that were left behind due to the incomplete combustion.

So, higher temperature plugs (usually one number higher) are used to counter the effects of incomplete combustion.

However, it should be said that many a "hotter" plug has been installed due to an incorrectly tuned carburetor.......not cylinder wear. But that's another story........

Improper ignition timing can also cause these symptoms.

If he has not done so, have your mechanic perform a compression check, and a leak-down test. This will show whether the issue lies in the cylinder(s) or its a carb problem.

I often install a hotter plug in motors that troll alot, but you have to know how to "read" the color of a used plug and check them often.

Up for grabs is the "Hot Pursuit" from Olcott and the Oak. The guys are ready for an upgrade, so this one must go. I am handling the sale, as I have performed all of the maintenance on her for the past couple of years, and she is stored here.

This boat surveyed well in the spring of 2011. A full report is available. She is powered by a 5.7 (350) Chevy/Mercruiser inboard, and Velvet drive transmission. 4500hrs. Unknown if original engine. Leakdown test and compression check done before 2011 season, all within 8%. Oil changes by us were done at 50 hour intervals.

All of the major systems received a thorough going over during 2011, most notably the electrical system. All new switches on the helm, with circuit breakers, and a new fuse panel beneath for accessories. All electrical items are fully functional (gauges, wipers, lights, pumps, etc)

New belts, hoses, full tune-up, raw water pump ($700), bilge pumps, prop balancing, antenna, and yes even the wiper blades in spring '11

All of the fishing gear has been removed. I did leave the rail system for downrigger mounting on the transom gunnel.

She carries 120 gallons of fuel, very efficiently. Mileage is really superb for a boat this size. She trolls like a champ, runs superb. She will tickle cruise speed at 3300rpm, roughly 23mph. No vibrations or noises. She was not beat on by us or the previous elderly owner.

Her gelcoat still shines with a wash. She does have some wounds due to some "captain error" (it was only minutes till happy hour, she got "hot docked")......allegedly.....twice.......but nothing out of the ordinary for a 26yr old boat. Bottoming paint needs to be re-done.

The only things I can think of that should be replaced before this season would be the fuel supply line and the vent line for the tank. They had been previously replaced with non-USCG approved hose and were noted in the survey. The rudder packing needs replacing, and the front hatch leaks if you stuff the bow through a 7' wave. Otherwise she is ready for the lake.

She is currently located 4 miles west of Olcott on Rte 18,in Wilson. We are offering to the LOU community first, then will park near the road for sale. She is currently berthed on a very heavy duty, but equally as ugly, homemade yard trailer. It will not travel much distance without new tires.

Contact the owner Fred Dalley (dalleydouble on LOU) to discuss financials. He is asking 4500 or best offer, as-is. Partial trades will be considered.....maybe another boat, fishing gear, hunting gear, cars, trucks, etc.....

PM me to set up time to inspect, or with any questions about the boat. I can provide better pictures if requested.

A bunch of these were included in a loaded tackle box I bought from a yard sale. Had no idea what they were. No instructions or packaging. Now I have an idea at least.........

I will guess 40 for total score.

Just need one but would buy two if price was right. Cash or can barter marine repair work. Thanks.

I installed a 585 for the Hot Pursuit boys in the spring, with transom transducer. I took several trips with them and was very impressed with the unit, and the performance of the transducer, even at cruising speed. Most impressive was how well it tracked downrigger balls. Voorhees may chime in, but as far as I know he was thrilled with it.

20. Gar fishing is wide open to creating new angler jargon. (suggestion:

“We sure did tweak some beak!â€)

Thats funny right there..........

I went with an automotive head unit, and marine speakers in my sport boat. Previously I used automotive speakers as well, but they would get ruined very quickly just from the dampness from a good rain.

Had a blast with you guys this year, looking forward to 2012 season. Great video!

You should wire you boat using buss bars after the switch. You use a Main battery and don't switch it unless there is a problem, the "main" battery can either be 1 or 2 and it can change each time you go out, but the wiring from the switch "common" should go to a buss bar/ fuse box and be distributed from there. Don't use the switch to distribute power its not made for that neither is its purpose for that.

You normally don't run the switch on both, just the main battery for that day, if you have a problem you can then switch to the back up battery as what the switch is intended for. The only time you run on both is if you have a problem, deplete a battery, discover problem and fix it, can verify your charging again, then switch to "both" when motor is off, restart and charge departed battery. But even then once your depleted battery is back "up" you should make a switch again.

At the dock you test and charge (or test for charge) on both battery's before going out. Then you decide what battery your going to run on, and switch it to that battery before starting anything. You leave it there until your back at the dock again and then when everything is off, you switch it to off, until the next time your ready to go out and you repeat the process. Don't rely on your switch to fix a problem that can be discovered at the dock some people think thats what a switch can do for them.

There is a product out there now that has a charging sensor, that monitors the battery's and after the main battery is fully charged will "shunt' the charge over to the "house" battery's. its pretty slick and works great. Its a separate piece that comes with the switch and install in line with the start battery. This is what most guys should be getting and setting there boat up with a start battery and house battery. It lays out better and will work much better.

Incredibly well said. I am sure you clarified the battery switch concern for many members.

Shakemsam, If your wheel hubs are even warm to the touch, either your bearings are bad or you have the nut too tight. There is virtually no heat build up on properly lubricated and tightened wheel bearings.

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