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Excavtr

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  1. Excavtr

    best downrigger release

    bhotz85, I had the same issue with Blacks...very frustrating. I switched to Chamberlain's and they work great. I keep the upper adjustment pretty tight so I can crank down on the rod. I do get a few small shakers on the sliders every once in a while. I keep the bottom adjustment light and never had a problem with a release on the smallest of trout. I would recommend Chamberlains.
  2. I am looking to buy a couple reels to load with mono (probably 12#) for use with inline planer boards. I know everyone have their favorite reels. I am considering Okuma Convectors because I've had good luck with Okuma in the past. I troll the finger lakes, but want capacity for Ontario. How much capacity should I look for in a reel for this use? Also wanted to mount them on a 2 piece Medium action 8' big water Shakespeare Ugly Stick BWS110080. Will that rod have enough backbone to pull the inlines?
  3. Thinking about making the drive out to Seneca tomorrow. I see some comments on other posts about trolling the south end around Watkins Glen. The Glen is quite a drive for me. I typically launch out of Sampson due to convenience. Do you think I could have some luck trolling that area of the lake or would my time be better spent heading to the Glen? Or is there a better location to launch during the winter? I've never fished the lake this late in the year. Are the fish mostly staged near Catharine Creek during the winter months? Thanks.
  4. Excavtr

    boat floor

    Freeman77, I used it on the two vertical surfaces that separate the bow deck & cockpit, aft deck & cockpit. I bought 2 gallons of Durabak. That got me 4 coats on all exposed surfaces you see in the pictures, 2 coats on the underside of the hatches and 2 coats on the liner panel/interior of cockpit storage. 2 coats covered the deck fairly well, but you could still make out the grain pattern of the plywood if you knew what you were looking at. 3 coats looked good, but I had enough material for a 4th coat so I kept putting it on until the second gallon was empty. I think I may have put the first coat on a little light, due to the directions warning against over-applying the product and risking shrinkage cracking. Take it slow and buy more than you need. From my experience, each coat made it look better than the last. It is very easy to apply. It does offgas for a few days, so use it in a well ventilated area.
  5. Excavtr

    boat floor

    Here are a few pics of how my deck replacement turned out. The Durabak color is "Sand". The Durabak went on pretty easy. I could have gotten by with 2 coats, but I put it on until the cans were empty and got 4 coats on. I also had to shim the dashes with some aluminum stock to make up for the thickness of the carpet that I lost. I am pleased with the results and can't wait to see how it performs.
  6. Excavtr

    aluminum hull corrosion

    Here are a few pics of how my deck replacement turned out. The Durabak color is "Sand". The Durabak went on pretty easy. I could have gotten by with 2 coats, but I put it on until the cans were empty and got 4 coats on. I also had to shim the dashes with some aluminum stock to make up for the thickness of the carpet that I lost. I am pleased with the results and can't wait to see how it performs.
  7. Excavtr

    boat floor

    I am replacing my floor and decided to go with Durabak. According to their website it is suitable for a variety of uses. http://www.durabakcompany.com/marine.htm They will send you paint chips so you can see what the product and colors look like. I originally wanted to go with vinyl, but the upholsterer told me it was not flexible enough to fit around the edges of the hatches and cutouts. I hope to get the deck and hatch covers painted over the next couple days. I will post a couple pics when I'm done.
  8. Excavtr

    aluminum hull corrosion

    I am using MarineTech 3/4" plywood and will cover it with Durabak.
  9. Excavtr

    aluminum hull corrosion

    I just had a hull repair done and filled it with foam last night. West Marine has it, but you will overpay for it. I found it at Clark Craft in Tonawanda for a fraction of the price. http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-supplies/ ... 37820a362d I had pretty good results. They say optimum temperature is 80-90 degrees for application. I set the bottles next to a space heater to keep them warm so I didn't have to heat the entire shop. They say heating Part A in a microwave will work too, but I didn't like that idea. Clark Craft sells measuring cups, you'll need at least 2 of them and a lot of disposable mixing containers. I used 12 oz plastic drinking cups. They say to use small amounts of Part A & B (2 oz each) and layer it in. I used 3-4 oz each in the 12 oz mixing cup and that is about all you'll fit. You'll need room in the cup for mixing and some expansion. To mix it, I cut a paint mixing stick to 4", taped it to a wooden dowel and put it in a cordless drill. Pour Part B into your mixing cup, then Part A (Part A is the accelerator), and mix fast until it turns milky and starts to bubble. pour it into you cavity before it jumps out of the cup. It is pretty simple, but you have to work fast. The small portions make it time consuming. I tried a few larger batches (5 oz each) to speed it up, but it is harder to control and I ended up with a few high spots that will have to be cut down. Good luck!
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