zadvorney

I will try that for sure.  Thank you very much for the advice.

Nice fish. Do you have any advice as to the action required to work the tube baits? That sounds like a fun way to hook up.  

Ran into the same thing today.  Brought my son with me and we had one hit.  The shallow water was clear as a bell and we ran out of time to effectively scan the deeper water.  No mud line present so the rain will help out this week.  That being said, when do the fish move away from near shore?  Water temps near shore were 45 and in 20" were 37.  

The color on that fish is awesome.

FISH FRY!!! Were they all males?  The long shape...

And asks the guy a bunch of questions and he is more than helpful setting up some planer boards and the guy with the parrot goes out on his first time ever fishing for salmon and gets four plus a 6 lb smallmouth but he threw them all back because the parrot said they were all too small but one of them wasn't so he ate the parrot and now nobody looks funny at him anymore....

the end

Thanks again for all the help.  Everything worked out great.  Firetiger was the lure that got all the steelhead and one salmon.  10 feet of water near the mudline. Water was 45-47 deg. I was going 1.5mph but don't know if I should speed up or slow down from there.

A nice score.  I'm sure that after a few times out you will know instinctively how much line is going out.

I am fully inspired.  Thanks to everyone who gave such helpful information.

Thanks for the input Gert.  I figure if I purchase something that will last then I'll only have to do it once.  I like the 2 speed option as well.  

I have very little experience in trolling for trout and salmon and am wondering if the reel I was looking at would work for this purpose.  It is the AVET SX series.  It would hold 320 yd of 15 mono and 700 yd of 30 braid.  It does not have a level wind feature.  Is the level wind a deal killer? Would I have to thumb the line to stack it back on the spool?  What line capacity am I looking for.  I like the American made construction of it the most.

The rubber bumper part is like a rock after it's been in a while.  I've heard heating it up in hot water can soften it.  New stuff isn't cheap but you went through all the other stuff so wait and save until next year if you have to so you can do it right the first time.  

That is a pig! Nice one to get through the ice.

You Rock! Notes taken.

Starting in 2009 I began the project.  A 1977 fiberglass runabout that was in fair shape an a good motor.  I finished it in 2013 and had it out all summer in Erie and Ontario and it runs great.  There are a bunch of video that I posted on YouTube and I hope it helps anyone that wants to do their own repairs.  I'll list all the videos or you can search for me under "1977 fiberglass boat rebuild"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8x8GbcWN0k&list=PL77D0A022D0A1B204

If you ever wanted to build a boat, these videos will inspire you or CURE you of any notion. LOL I hope I can help someone with these videos.

I've run into these problems as I rebuilt a boat over the last few years.  Just a 17' runabout but I made new glass stringers, a new transom and a complete floor.  The latter two being of 3/4" marine grade plywood.  Marine grade plywoods' use better glues to adhere the plys together and always have less voids in the matrix than a standard grade ext or int plywood.  Worth the extra money.  I got mine at Lenco Lumber in West Seneca. The epoxy I used came from ClarkCraft and is located in Tonawanda NY.  It's designed to adhere to wood and fiberglass and doesn't leave an ameane(sp) blush between coats.  One coat of a good marine grade epoxy will seal the fibers in the wood.  Glass will add durability and abrasion resistance.  Insure there is no moisture in the wood as you will trap it and dry rot fungus will bite you in the ass in a few years.  I do agree with what others have stated about carpet holding water.  There is a great product from West Marine that is a non-skid epoxy top coat used in areas of the floor that get alot of traffic.  It has a powder additive to the mix that makes it slightly rough when it dries.  It does collect a little dirt but can be scrubbed to get it off. The latex based roll on floor paint that has tiny rubber bits in it is good but tends to flake or peel off if the floor wasn't prepped correctly. In no way am I a pro but I've had the unfortunate but educational experiences dealing with this stuff and have learned a few does and don't.  Feel free to drop me a line or email if you want to pick my brain. Good luck.

Something we get here on Lake Erie is a botulism outbreak.  Plant matter pools in a low spot out of the current and decays to the point where Anaerobic respiration occurs.  Botulism bacteria need this condition. As the fish feed into this area they die off and sink into the area.  Repeating the process as other things feed into the area and also die until the area is flushed out by the current thus ending the cycle.  A large pool of "dead" water can move like a curtain and kill across a large area.  I remember seeing a few of the mass die offs on Cayuga as a kid in the 80's.  Remember the duck die off in Stewart Park.  Same concept. As the local business' use the lake as a big heat exchange for their air conditioners the lake has to absorb more heat energy and thus enabling  production of more plant matter.  More than the end of the lake can naturally flush out.  It would be interesting to see what is being flushed, run off, into the lake as the winery industry increases and the farms decrease.  Different fertilizers and nutrients being fed into the streams in the area that might enable a bloom in algae and bacteria in the lake to explode.