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longbow

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Posts posted by longbow

  1. That ain't it.  Decided against removing the hardtop.  Maybe could raise it up who knows.  But all things considered you kind of get used to it after a bit.  Except for the first screamer that takes off when you first put it in for the year.  I have drop down curtains on it and will just remove them to make it easier to see the rods.  Not a fan of doing that cause I have flies hanging off bungee cords so they tend to fly around a bit when cruising with the back curtains removed.  Also our Avenger has the center cut out of the hard top so you don't bop your head.  Other than the step down it has a stellar hull design with over sized trim tabs to really smooth out the ride in the roughest of water.  

     

     

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  2. Don't know if you all know exactly what an Avenger model is but it is about the only PY model I know of that is step down boat.  Not quite 3' of step down into the cabin.  They use to mount a sport bridge on top of the hard top on many of them.  The hard top is like walking on cement.  These boats are wide and low slung to the water.  For a 24' boat it has a wide beam at 9.5'.  As for turning turtle just don't see it happening on a boat like this, it is in no way top heavy.  

  3. My wife and I have an Avenger made by PennYan.  Excellent big water boat, wide hull with an almost perfect dead rise so it is a very dry ride in all types of seas on Lake O.  However it is a step down into boat.  What I am thinking is to remove the top, put a canvas covering over it on alum. bracing to make it more open and more of a one piece type of cockpit.  Basically raising up the roof level with the canvas top and if need be being able to fold it down for an open bow design.  Better rod visibility and just more open.  Anybody do this type of modification around here?  thanks for any and all info.

  4. Nicely done.  Overkill is totally redoing his in shore fishing boat in the marina we stay at.  His transom replacement is almost identical to how you did it.  He gutted his whole boat though right down to the inner hull and stringers.  Interesting to see it being done and how he does it.  He is skilled I will say that.  Lots of work though!

  5. Use a leader of 50lb braid say about 20-30'.  Loop the wire end, feed braid through loop from the bottom.  Wrap back to the wire loop about 10 turns or so feed the tag end of the braid up through the loop from the bottom.  Add a bit of spit and pull tight.  Then take the braid leader end and use a palomar knot to tie on to your swivel for the divers you are using.  Never get a kink in the wire, it won't cork screw on you etc.etc.  

  6. I always set the knob just loose enough so that any flasher, dispsey, etc. when the knob is loosened just enough the line will free fall to the deck of the boat with whatever I have on the terminal end of the line.  That is without the clicker on.  Just saves wear and tear on the reel. 

     

    As for spooling out divers, I set the line tension so it takes a firm  but smooth tug to pull the line out via a light drag.  After setting that I always crank the handle of the reel half way around and check it again.  Takes all the play out of the drag and spool and makes the drag just work better.  

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  7. I know there are two kinds.  One that rotates 360deg. and lock into place like every 10deg or so and one that rotates 180deg. that don't lock.  I am looking at a pair of the gimbal mounted swivel matics that don't lock into place.  I am assuming that the pressure of the cannon ball at depth and the forward motion of the boat keeps the rigger in place if it doesn't lock and the other 360deg uses a pin or something like that to lock it into place.  So if someone could help me out I would appreciate it. That is before I spend my money.  thanks

  8. Well I was all happy last week when my Blood Run 30lb sea flea line arrived.  Spooled it on and went out fishing out of Hughes.  What a waste of $40.  Truth be told I thought my 30lb Big Game which I removed, was better at repelling the fleas.  Hand lined 2 fish in with the Blood Run.  

     

    I'm gonna try bow string wax on my line to see if that works.  Also Sting Ray that runs out of Hughes uses two .5" pipe hangers screwed together to get them off.  Just pinch the pipe cleaners when running the line down through them he says it zips them right off.  Also some fellas are running lead core and copper on there riggers with long leaders.  That seems to work the best it seems.  Blood Run does not!  I am a sucker for sure.  thanks

  9. Fleas are the worst I've ever seen but only been fishing for 6yrs on the lake.  I had a ball of fleas as big around as my fist on my right rigger down line this a.m.  Also there seems to be some green scum that the fleas get between and it just causes them to bunch up like they did.  I ended cutting the lines on both riggers to get the spoon and swivel and discarded the rest.

    I just ordered 2 300 yd spools from Fish USA of the blood run mono.  Will be here thurs or fri.  Don't know if I'll fish till I get it.  The were so thick on my rigger line it was jamming up at the end of the rigger.  

  10. I used one of my old Okuma Magda Pro's size 30 that worked perfect.  Used braid for backing about 200 yds of I think it was 40 lb.- 10 color-100yds of lead core made by Kastking, and 15lb kastking flouro carbon, used 50 ft for the leader.  I used and albright knot for the connection between backing and leadcore, and a willits knot for flouro leader to leadcore.  thanks

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