Nameless Fish

It's not that I want to hook them up separately, I just want to keep my two separate battery banks, It just looks to me like connecting them together like that diagram shows would turn everything into a single bank of batteries, which in my head removes the whole point of the starting/house battery situation I have setup currently. I wired all accessories to the house battery bank (which in my setup is two 31 series deep cycle batteries in parallel) and wired the main and kicker to the stater battery bank (high amp 27 series starting battery). This is all new to me too and I may be looking at wrong, I have a tendency to overthink things sometimes.

Didn’t you essentially turn your 2 batteries into a single bank by connecting like that with the chargers controller? I’d like to maintain 2 separate banks with my batteries. Is that possible with just one controller?

Could you send me some more info on your setup? I don't need the inverter but I also have a hardtop and it sounds like your setup is exactly I'm looking to do.

My new boat has a 110 outlet flush mounted on the outside of the pilot house for the on-board 3 bank battery charger. Can I get a solar panel that would output 110 with the right connector to just plug into that port to charge my batteries while it's sitting at the dock? I'm hoping for a simple self-contained unit I can just plug in and not have to mess with controllers or inverters, but I'm not really familiar with solar.

That is extremely helpful information, thank you! Pictures would be great if you don't mind

120lbs

I'm looking for a fixed kicker bracket and am curious what brands others are running. Anyone ever have issues with the Panther brackets? They are cheap compared to most other brackets I've seen and am hesitant to hang a brand new $3k motor off a $150 bracket.

I'm looking to put it on a Suzuki 9.9 as well. So you're saying you just bought the kit (plus the additional brackets needed for a Suzuki) and installed it as if it was a tiller per the instructions? And you didn't experience any of the issues they mentioned in that message that would happen if you installed on a non-tiller?

This what I was sent from Garmin support.

I contacted Garmin support about it and they said they don't recommend, or support install on non-tiller models and a "custom install" would invalidate the warranty of the product. I'd hate to spend $3k and the instantly ruin the warranty 5 minutes later.

So I'm looking to potentially rig up a new boat and had some questions about an autopilot setup on it. The boat has an outboard mounted on an extended transom/full width swim platform, I would install a kicker motor on the extended transom as well. My question is, do I go with an AP setup on my main engine and then connect it to my kicker via a tie bar or do I go with a standalone kicker AP unit like the Garmin Reactor 40 kicker? The issue I'm seeing with the Reactor 40 kicker AP is that Garmin says the kicker needs to be a tiller handle model and with the extended transom I won't be able to reach the tiller handle. The issue with the AP setup on the main engine and tie bar route is, the boat I'm looking at is an enclosed pilothouse model and I really need to be able to control the AP with a wireless remote when I'm on the back deck. Any suggestions?