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Posts posted by stoneam2006
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Very similar set ups
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Damn I haven't so far says ready to pick up sooon
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Walmart messed up online...order online pickup at store before sold out...great arrows for the price
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Exactly not everyone has time to litterally shoot the strings off. Those who do can gain the confidence further and know exactly where the mark is. Those who don't get good at their desired range and that's as far as they shoot. At least ethically....can't wait for the season to roll out hope to see harvest pics from everyoneThe key in your quote is you know your shot and know your distance limits given your experience. Nothing wrong with that.
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Absolutly I had a 6 pt bedded down and sleeping at 40 yards last year (with old bow) and wanted to shoot bad as I have never taken a buck with a bow I waited almost 2 hrs for him to get up and watched him walk away. Ended up sticking him right in the kill Zone with my xbow Nov 6th all rutted up and lost him. Made me sick. He ended up pulling bolt out and went into swamp spent 3 days looking for him and all of gun season looking to never found body or anything and it was a good shot. Broadside 25 yards bolt went in 10 plus inches think I caught rib on backside blood everywhere. Will not be using xbow anymore and bought new bow. It happens even when you do your part don't need to be extra risky for any reasonAgree 100%. I have a buddy that wounds a deer almost once a year, and I know several seasons when it's multiple deer that he's wounded!!! It' almost a joke to him, which is very, very sad given that he gets buck fever the minute he sees bone on a head. Needless to say, he doesn't hunt my properties anymore.
I had a nice ten which I ranged at 45 yards last year. I did all I could to hold off and wait. I must admit I wanted to throw an arrow, given the phrase "you can't kill 'em if you don't shoot..." but I waited and watched him walk off into the sunset since that's way beyond my level of comfort.
Two weeks later, he was back at 15 yards and now he resides in my belly and on my wall.
Good luck in the field,
Chris
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I think another issues with range is guys who don't use rangefinders or get that fever when a deer walks in and it's either further or closer resulting in a miss. And also the guys who say 35 but don't have the ethics when a booner walks in at 50 and they try and hail marry one in
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You as well ho0e to see some pics in few weeksCouldn't agree more. Good luck this season!
Take care & b safe!
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Yea I'm over on hunt ny forum and started a thread over there to show that not ever ones range is the same...just bc your buddy can shoot 50 doesn't mean you can. Gotta practice and know your limits same holds true for gunsYep. Wish we had more hunters who know the limitations of their equipment or their abilities with their equipment. We'd have less wounded animals in the woods. Plus, it's just to darn expensive when you release that arrow. For me the cost would be $11 for the arrow, $12 for the broadhead, lighted nock $8-$9. You release that arrow you better be sure. Cause you might not get that arrow back.
I shoot a bit all thru the year. But I start shooting my bow hard in mid-July. And I still won't take a 35-40 yard shot in the woods. Just too many variables you can't account for in the woods. Now in an open field I'll reach out to 50 yards.
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Maybe someone with more experience than me can chime in but I fix the firing order first and try again may be the problemImmediately I notice.... He has the wires 1234. From front to back. He has the red wire that comes from the distributor to the coil on the negative side( red means positive with out a stripe correct?) If the wires are wrong then the lengths are wrong and the timing of the #1 cylinder firing will be off ? I have to take the distributor out, and coil off to get the vavle cover off. Can I tell by taking the rocker cover off?
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Yea that's why I started shooting further but ended up becoming confident in ability to shoot that far. Under perfect conditions.like last year a 6 pt bedded down 48 yards in front of me but my old bow didn't shoot well that farStoneam2006 I'm shooting piledrivers as well. Tipped with 4 blade Slick Tricks. They shoot just like a field points. I only practice out to 50 yards. Never shot further than 33 yards in the woods. But it sure doesn't hurt to shoot out that far. Makes the close shot a dink.
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Yea that's why I started shooting further but ended up becoming confident in ability to shoot that far. Under perfect conditions.like last year a 6 pt bedded down 48 yards in front of me but my old bow didn't shoot well that farStoneam2006 I'm shooting piledrivers as well. Tipped with 4 blade Slick Tricks. They shoot just like a field points. I only practice out to 50 yards. Never shot further than 33 yards in the woods. But it sure doesn't hurt to shoot out that far. Makes the close shot a dink.
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I think I would change or clean plugs see if they go black right away again...black is rich or burning oil causing carbon which I guess could be from valves being tight meaning open to long allowing oil to get in. Did you replace valves? Or pull out at all? How does it turn over when starting seem normal or seem like extra force needed? I'm no professional but I like to brainstorm with motors
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Agree but if it does go the cost is 3x or better to fixThe motors are rated at the prop,2 or 4 stroke. A 2 stroke will rev quicker but does not have the same torque/power as a 4 stroke. It does weigh a bit more but not enough to make so big a
difference that you need to go from a 90 two stroke to a 100 four stroke to get the same top end. The biggest thing is to get the correct prop so the engine peaks out a couple hundred rpm under the rated number with a full load on the boat. Or empty hits the redline. I would go 4 stroke all day long if I was buying a new outboard. Your minimum hp should be 65% of the max rated hp of the hull. I didn't do the math on yours but I would spend the extra 900.00 and go for the 115,you will be happier in the long run. As far as rebuilding a 2 vs 4 stroke if you follow mfg scheduled oil changes you will probably never have to rebuild that 4 banger. That would be the least of my worries. BTW raced MX for 15 years and 2 strokes needed rings/pistons every 15-40 hours of riding time depending on if it was a 125 or 250. The Yamaha 4 strokes would go for 2 - 3 seasons without anything but oil changes and that's bouncing off the 10,000 rpm redline constantly.
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That's not good either...has carb been rebuilt?
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Shakes hard sounds like starvation. Just barely enough combustion to push back to top.
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Yea that shouldn't make any difference. In your opinion does it seem to be starving for fuel? How are plugs? Start it and let die and pull plugs are they wet? Is the carb vacuume assisted or anything like that.It sounds better but it shakes hard and only runs with throttle. Dies out if it idles. Basically got rid of a tick to have an non operative motor... Old gear was fiber new one is aluminum. Don't know if I mentioned that
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Idk if it is either to be honest. But seems as if it wouldn't the gears down below have to be the problem. Either backwards clocked one way or the other maybe that spacer he forgot is allowing the gear to shift inward so it's binding up. I don't have much boat experience but lots of quads and bikes and motorcycles and from what you describe it sound to me like timingWhen I watched him install the distributor, its like it wouldn't drop in perfect. It would drop in mid tooth... That's why I question if the gear is on backwards. I don't even know if that's possible.
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How does it sound when it is running? Any noise that may seem normal but wasn't there before or don't know if was
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And in my experience on other motors....if cam lobes were not in correct orientation you would be off and more than likely not even start. Timing being off a tooth or 2 could and more than likely would run...just badly
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Is the timing chain/belt new?
I have run into this on quads and thay if you don't replace the old chain true position is not know bc of strech. Have you tried advancing and retarding timing slightly? Does it make any difference?
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I imagine bullseye archery in Bloomfield does....closest I can think ofFor your target get a morrell yellow jacket. I have a ghost 385 and it stops them bolts easily and
you can pull them out with one hand. They make a discharge target also. stay away from foam
targets. Anyone know shop that fletches bolts in the Rochester area?
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Wish I could like more than once.....especially with quality oil like klotzAh, the smell of 2 stroke in the morning....
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Just another angle to look at.(I am a dirtbike rider) 2 strokes are easier to work and and less costly to fix than a 4 stroke. Valve work is something that most guys can't do at home compared to a new ring on a pistion on a 2 stroke.
Side bennifit is 2 strokes smell better
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I may have missed it I think I read whole thread. What are you shooting?
I have matthews htx shooting carbon express pile drives tipped with rage hypodermics.
Hope to see a trophy pic
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DEALLLL
in Hunting Equipment
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Olean let me get them with minimal hassel
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