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Posts posted by ThreeDogsDown

  1.  I have recently purchased a 2019 Alumacraft trophy 195. The boat came with a minn kota ulterra. The first few times I used the boat, the trolling motor worked flawlessly. I had the boat out twice this past weekend, and the trolling motor would be working fine for a few minutes, and would then just power itself off. I could hit the power button right after it shut off, and it would turn back on, but then would just power off after another couple minutes. Any idea what could be causing this? 

    Had the same problems and these are just the “beginning symptoms”. They will get worse. It is your plug. The plug that comes with Minnkota is the Marinco plug. Junk. Mine was always hot, always came loose on its own and eventually caught fire. Yes, actual flames and burning plastic.

    I switched to a two prong Trac plug. All problems went away and the plug is not even warm.

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  2. I do it all the time. Maximum is 80’. I usually assign it to 75’. It works great.

    I have started snapping it on up the leadcore half way, so you don’t have to do it when the salmon is right behind the boat. It buys you some time. Never had a problem with it on the leadcore.

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  3. Assuming you are fishing deep get the performance pack which replaces the 4oz weight with a 7oz weight and adds a ring to get it to a magnum dipsy size.

    Assuming you will be using using slide divers as your high diver, turn the weight to a “4” setting, which is to the side (or end of the weight).

    On a “4” setting, you can get a 4 to 1 ratio of line out to depth. For instance, in 40’ of water, 160’ of line will result in a bouncing diver. So, you would then do a 4 to 1 ratio minus 10’ to have it very close to bottom. (150’ line out). All of this at a 2.5 Speed at the ball.

    If you are especially nervous with bouncing divers, just go 3 to 1 and see how you do. Your risks would be a lot lower for tangles. At that point, if your low diver takes a strike, go to a 4:1 ratio.

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  4. My favorite all around reel is the Okuma Convector CV30DS. I put the reel handle on the back hole. With that and the high speed feature, it is well suited for divers, short leadcores, or long lead walleye trolling. You can get lines in fast.

    For silver fish I like the Diawa Wilderness rods. For walleye, I like the Cabela’s Depthfinder telescopic rods.

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  5. It didn’t take long. We have a 40’ flat in Frankfort MI that runs for miles. Auto pilot, set the dial, and slowly deploy. When it starts bouncing bottom record the line out number and the depth and speed.

    Set the dial again and repeat. You’ll figure it out. Doesn’t take long. The 2:1 ratio with the Ultimate Pack on a “1” setting was accurate.

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  6. Three dogs down, thanks for that information on the 7oz weight I appreciate the information. What about the # 1 diver with rings what do you use for the large ring?

    Sent from my SM-S205DL using Lake Ontario United mobile app

    I bought the dive charts from FishUSA. They are in my boat in the barn. When I go choring today, I’ll dig it out and get some data rolling.

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  7. I called U-Charter and they don’t have dive charts for the Ultimate Pack (7oz weight with ring). He said its a 2:1 ratio on a 1 setting. After that, he was just estimating.

    So, I did my own testing on the Ultimate Pack.

    On a 3 setting, you get 3:1. On a 6 setting you get 4:1. I did this using 50# PP and 2.5 SOG.

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  8. Baddad1- Not sure what you mean by getting the wire off the rod.
    Sliders definitely have their day. Storing them on the rod can be a PITA,  especially if you have to break the rod down for storage. I keep a braid setup dedicated for a slider with 30lb fourocarbon double uni-knotted to the braid that the slider clips to. 

    When you have a slide diver on a wire setup, the last 50’ or so are a segment of Mono, flouro, or braid for the slide diver to slide on. What he means is the wire is reeled right up on the spool and the slider segment is “on the rod”, not the wire.

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