Shellback

Members
  • Content count

    358
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Caln, PA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Just a dab around the screw penetrations is all you need as a sealant. People goob it all over and then have problems.
  2. The Op is talking about fastening the board to his aluminum hull. The boards are usually fastened with sheet metal screws and they only pass through probably .100 thick aluminum. Can't imagine the 5200 preventing the screw from coming out. A threaded screw into a threaded hole is a whole different ballgame.
  3. I've never had a problem removing a screw with 5200 around it. I'm sure it would be big trouble trying to remove a garboard drain fitting with 5200 on an inch of threads. But I was talking about some sealant around the thread screw holes mounting the board to an aluminum hull. It's not like you are coating a threaded screw or bolt that's passing through a threaded hole 1 inch deep. Here's my original post. "Are you using it as a sealant, or an adhesive? I've always used 5200 as a sealant when mounting the boards, but never depended on it as an adhesive. I just put a bead around the perimeter of the board and a dab at each screw hole. Never had a problem."
  4. With the rising temps, I think you will be fine. Keep in mind, that it will take several days to set up properly.
  5. You won't have any problems! I'd clean the hull and board with alcohol before applying the sealant
  6. You should have no problem removing the old screws Where are you in S.E. PA?
  7. Yes, just clean off the old stuff with a razor blade. If there are rivet heads where you are mounting the board, drill a shallow relief hole so the board mounts flush. Same with the old ducer screws. Put them back in the hole with 5200 and drill a relief hole for the screw heads.
  8. Are you using it as a sealant, or an adhesive? I've always used 5200 as a sealant when mounting the boards, but never depended on it as an adhesive. I just put a bead around the perimeter of the board and a dab at each screw hole. Never had a problem.
  9. I still have one. $50 shipped.
  10. I can ship one to you for $50.00
  11. Shellback

    Help with boat damage

    Looking at the picture, it looks like a very nice hull. That's more than cosmetic, it's through the gel coat and into the matting.. Matting will absorb water if the repair isn't done properly. After your temp repair, you should have it removed and a proper repair made. Sure hope you get paid by the person that hit you. I don't like to bust people's stone after an unfortunate accident that they own up to, but if someone runs, they need to be taught a lesson.
  12. Shellback

    Help with boat damage

    If someone hit you, why aren't you seeking professional repair at a boatyard? The tab should be on the person that hit you. I wouldn't be doing a patch job myself. unless it's a beater boat.
  13. Shellback

    I need some help

    That's a 27 y/o boat. Regardless of whether wood is used in it's construction or not, get a survey done. I'd bet it has a wood transom and stringers though.
  14. Shellback

    Boat registrations and State

    When I lived upstate PA and fished NY exclusively, I always registered my boats in NY. The law does require you to register your boat in the state of it's primary use. It's not a big deal at all to register your boat in NY. You do need a few different types of ID. As far as taxes, there was a form an out of state resident would use to avoid taxes. as you already paid taxes in your home state. I live in S.E. PA, and as Delaware has no sales taxes. folk like to buy a boat there and register it there. Then they dock the boat in NJ or MD for the summer. The DNR likes to cruise the marinas looking for boats not registered in the state they are docked. The they access healthy fines to them. I'd advise you to check into registering your boat in NY. When I did 10 years ago, it was actually cheaper than PA.