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Iceman
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Posts posted by Iceman
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These sure look a lot like Jr. Thundersticks, which are my favorites, but will have to try some this year.
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All fish were released except 1 that we couldnt revive.
Sent from my LG-D631 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
Hey cat has to eat, nice work, good fish!
John
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Standard Slide divers. I should qualify my earlier post by saying I typically use my slide divers to target fish 40' and up. That said, I rarely have more than 130' of line out. In fact my favorite set is 90' out with 20' from the diver to the bait. Tripping them is not an issue.
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PC;
Thanks for the info!
John
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Mono slide divers account for up to 40% of my king catch on some days in late April and early May. Cashed more than a few tournament checks because of slide divers and mono. Just sayin
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PZ;
Are you using standard SD's or are you using Lite Bite SD's. The lite bites break much easier than the standard SD's.
John
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Bout time:
I have a pair of Traxtech triple trees on my Hewescraft, & they have really been a great addition. They really help getting the rod tip high when running boards. They also are a great place to put a rod that is in the way during a tough King fight. As has been said before, "I wouldn't leave home without them".
John
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CB;
I have a Trollmaster, & it is important to get the throttle plate fully open when you max out the Control King, you want to start opening the throttle plate almost as soon as the stepping motor starts to turn.
Good luck;
John
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I use diver docks, as I don't like putting a sharp bend in the wire at the pole tip. I can then wind the swivel right into the roller guide at the rod top, & keep the wire straight. This method works well for me.
I can see where YT's method would be very helpful in getting the rigs out quickly when you get to the fishing grounds, & that is a good thing. I have seen this line wrapping around the reel thing done on the bottom fishing charter boats here in Florida, however they are using 60lb + mono.
John
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Wow, haven't seen one of those for 30 years, bet the Smithsonian would be interested!
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Starting to get really busy in Daytona, as the traffic is tough during mid day. I go there once or twice a week to get gas & groceries @ Sam's club while we are waiting out winter in central NY. Seems like many drivers have taken a double dose of pokey pills before getting behind the wheel. Bluebird day here on the beach with a current temperature of 62.5 degrees.
John
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CB:
There should be an alphanumeric designation for the grade of oil recommended for this engine, once you know this, you can select the correct oil.
John
Copied from the Tohatsu web site.
For your 4-stroke outboard, you should use Genuine Tohatsu FC-W 4-Cycle Oil. Tohatsu FC-W 4-Cycle Oil is NMMA Certified and has been specially formulated to handle the higher RPM's that outboards are subjected to, as well as special rust inhibitors to combat the harsh operating conditions of the marine environment. Genuine Tohatsu Oil reduces friction & wear and ensures the internal components are properly lubricated for optimum performance. If Tohatsu 4-Cycle Oil is not available we recommend using an NMMA Certified FC-W 4-cycle oil formulated for use in outboard engines. Look for oils bearing the FC-W trademark.
Your Tohatsu 4-stroke outboard is equipped with an Engine Oil Warning Lamp (except for 2hp, 2.5hp & 3.5hp). When the warning lamp is off, it indicates that sufficient oil pressure is present. If the warning lamp is on (red light is on) or blinking on/off, immediately shut down your outboard and check the oil level. Replenish as needed. If the oil level is at the appropriate level and the light continues to stay on or blink, consult your local dealer for assistance (do not use your outboard until a dealer has corrected the problem).
You may notice the engine oil warning lamp come on when you first start your outboard. This is normal and should go off after a few seconds. On cold starts, the lamp may stay on longer due to the oil being thicker. If so, stop the engine and restart and the lamp should go off quickly. If the warning lamp does not go out after 4-8 seconds, stop the engine and consult your local dealer.
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ST;
Very nice fish! Where was the derby?
John
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Photo's are not showing up???
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Lets hope that we get warmer weather, salmon fishing on the West end early last May was the worst I have seen in some time. Need to get the ice off Erie early & have a lot of warm rain.
John
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Seems like most people run 50lb floro. Is it really needed with all the action going on with the paddle and fly? I ask because I am just running 50lb Big Game.
Jake;
IMHO, I use the flouro because it is stiffer, & because of that gives a better roll to the fly.
John
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Sling:
Both places are good in the Spring, however you have approximately a 15 minute ride with no wake to the river mouth from the dock.
John
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I also cannot find any reference to soft start/stop on the Cannon web site or in the manual. The up/down speed is controllable via the cannonlink, so the engineering has been done, and the capability is there. When I made my decision to purchase them, I thought it was one of the differences between the Digitrolls and the Magnums. When I use auto up, I swear I can tell when the ball is almost at the surface by the slower speed, and it also seems to start slow on initial decent.
I did find reference to soft start/stop in several retailer listings:
excerpt from FishUSA and Cold Water Tackle listing:
These downriggers also include Cannon's "Short Stop." With a quick touch on the Auto-Up pad, and the weight rockets toward the surface. As the weight nears the top of the water, Soft-Stop automatically slows the retrieve rate to prevent stress on the cable. Then just before the weight breaks surface, Short-Stop automatically stops the rigger, leaving the weight safely below the surface to prevent free swinging.
excerpt from westerndrugstore.com (I don't know why a drugstore is selling downriggers, but this is what google found!):
……Adjustable Positive Ion Control. Short-Stop. Soft Start/Stop. Digital Line Counter. Compatible with CannonLink. 24" - 53" black telescopic boom. Dual Rear Rod Holder. 400' of Stainless steel cable. Universal line release (qty: 2). Plastic spool. Black swivel base. Mounting base. Mounting hardware. Single terminator. Ball storage hook.
I agree, you would think they would highlight it on their website, but I cannot find it. You may have to call them to be certain. Whatever the answer, I do not experience sudden starts and stops or bouncing booms.
kayak
Below is the info on the Traxtec Downrigger ck the 9th feature down starting with soft stop
Downrigger Elite Series - 400' of cable
Item #: DRES-400
The most advanced downrigger in technology offers all the features standard listed below:
â—¾Aluminum 3" swivel base with 12 position positive lock, -optional deck mount base available
â—¾All aluminum frame components
â—¾Lift & Lock aluminum 3' boom with optional lengths available
â—¾Dual roller pulley assembly on boom
â—¾All aluminum reel spool with 400' of 316 stainless-steel cable
â—¾Liquid smooth drag system with aluminum tension knob and retainer clip on drive shaft to ensure drag sysem components remain intact
â—¾Dual electronic counter system for superior accuracy
â—¾Lighted LCD display screen with large characters for easy viewing
â—¾Soft stop included in the electronic auto stop up and auto down features
â—¾Exact depth control using the lighted military grade 16 character key pad
â—¾Customer programmable jig function
â—¾Depth memory features
â—¾Tested with: 12# weight retrieved 280 feet per minute, 14# weight retrieved 260 feet per minute, 20# weight retrieved 200 feet per minute
â—¾Standard dual RH1 rod holder assembly
John
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I have a pair of these and concur they are great riggers. They are fast retrieve, and appear to have a soft start/stop. I agree the autostop works flawlessly. I have run up to 16lb torpedoes and the DT5s handle them with no issues at all. I typically use 12.5lb torpedoes unless I am trolling deeper than 100 ft.
My only complaints are the occasional cable jumping (hopefully fixed with the latest pulleys) and the composite swivel mounts. One mount cracked on me under normal use....immediately replaced by Cannon, but I upgraded to the stainless mount anyway.....keeping a close eye on the second one.
I have mine networked to a HB 788C and occasionally use the bottom tracking feature and rarely the cycling feature. It does take some getting used to when the depth changes and your rigger just starts running! It is tough to find the cannonlink modules, but you may find them on ebay and even on this site occasionally. I believe both Cannon and Humminbird made a version so look for both.
As far as I know, you cannot connect a transducer to the DT5, but I think you can buy a DT10 w/transducer and network it to DT5s. Check with Cannon support to double check. Their support has always been excellent both answering questions or resolving issues.
Kyak;
Took a look at these riggers on the Cannon website, & there is no mention of soft start/stop, I would think that they would mention this if they had it, because it requires some significant engineering to have this option . Traxtec may be the only rigger currently available with soft start/stop.
John
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Makes sense, I sometimes add a few beads too, guess I will look online to get an idea how to Snell backwards , "in my mind".. gonna have to practice that.
Thanks
Sent from my C771 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
On my tournament ties, the E-Chip goes between the treble & beak hook.
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I use a Palomar knot on the treble hook & a snell knot on the beak hook. I clamp the hooks in a fly tying vise to make sure that they are cinched down tightly. 50lb FC line needs to be lubricated & cinched down tight.
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Hope that they will have expanded their trawls with the new research boat, & have more relevant information that we can use.
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Tim;
What are you looking at for a replacement?
Good luck Tim!
John
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F and H:
It was tough fishing at the time of the tourney, not many Kings were caught. We caught nine kings while fishing the whole Spring LOC out of Olcott to the Bar, lots of big Lakers though. We saw the 52'er, it was a very fine looking boat. Think it was named the Dangle? We will be at it again this year & it is just around the corner.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
John
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Just put some red Loctite on it & forget it, since you say it isn't needed.
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LB 88:
This just adds more credence to the true meaning of boat (break out another thousand dollars) or in this case $1296 before tax. They will look great & function well!
Enjoy!
John
copper reels
in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
Posted
Doing it as you say above, will cause you to run them off the boat in rod holders (down the chute or nearly so) Having different lengths allows you to run them from boards (either a mast & big boards or in line planers), where IMHO they perform much better.
John