Jump to content

Pierless

Members
  • Content Count

    76
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sodus Point

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I bought my 9.9 used. Because it came with controls, I didn't have to make this decision. On the 26' Islander the cables that came with the kicker wound up reaching to the helm just right (kicker mounted on starboard side of stern). The control box was mounted to the carpet covered side pocket, which was 1/2" ply (I think) down low, just above the storage locker the helm pedestal stuck up through. That position worked pretty well. When I had crew, the helmsman had all the controls where he needed them. When I didn't have crew and was fighting a fish, it was easy enough to reach. On slow days when you're trolling around sitting at the helm and need to change speed, no need to get up. If you're generally going to have crew and they take direction well (throttle instructions) it's probably easier telling them what to do than having having to do it while fighting a fish. Last thought; if your GPS speed, paddle wheel boat speed and down speed instruments are all at the helm, that's where the throttle control should be? FWIW, I had an ancient Johnson 10HP tiller kicker for a long time with just an EZ-steer. Changing the throttle on the tiller was a hassle in comparison to the forward controls at the helm with the 9.9 Merc. You're going to love having a kicker. The 26' would troll 9+ hours on 6 gals of fuel unless it was really windy and you were heading into it all day (what you have to do in aluminum boats with lots of sail area in windy conditions). That you can take the tanks off the boat and fill them at the corner station is a savings over running on the main (probably with bags, making it even more inefficient). Best part is you have two sources of propulsion. That is a major safety factor and gave me confidence to go out whenever (especially during the Coasties and Sherriffs "off season").
  2. Baddad1, The trade-off w/aluminum boats is light weight. The 26' Islander had a hard top, so there was always a lot of sail area. The 9.9 Merc had remote throttle, start, etc. However, sometimes a finer control over the throttle would have been nice. The tall gunwales allowed me to solo fish the 26'er a lot, which is why I always wanted an auto pilot. If you've always got a mate, you'll be fine!
  3. Badad1, Having never had a remote steering setup, I can't answer definitively. However, I ran a 26' Islander w/9.9 Merc kicker for 15 years and wished I had remote steering every one of them! If battery capacity is an issue, maybe just having the remote control the kicker makes sense. If your kicker has an alternator, that won't be an issue, right? The main's I/O acts as a rudder to some degree. Not having the kicker linked to the main would eliminate the rudder effect it adds to help control the boat. Real question to ask yourself; "Wouldn't I enjoy being able to remotely steer the main when not using the kicker?" There are times when conditions overwhelm the kicker's ability to control the boat adequately, 'least there were on my Islander. If you can swing it, control the main's steering and link w/EZ Steer.
  4. Wallyandre, Thanks for your input. By no means am I saying cost is no object. However, I have budgeted to get the best/most applicable modern sonar gear for the new boat in the expectation I will have it for at least the next 10 years. Also, I am looking for through-hull transducers. Not saying transom mount won't work, but with twin inboards, xducer placement ahead of the prop shafts is optimal. I will continue to monitor this thread until I have selected and installed a xducer, whether it be a CHIRP, or not.
  5. Yankee Troller, PM received. Will call you Tuesday. Thanks! Neil
  6. Yankee Troller, I greatly appreciate your opinion. Thank you for offering it. Your credentials are known by me. As I said, I haven't pulled the trigger, yet. Your input is making me think about things differently. Perhaps we could have a phone call or meet up to cover details that I've yet to perceive? I'd rather support a LOU member than the Evil Empire (like shopping at Guitar Center instead of Stutzman's) Let me know if you're available. 'Best, Neil
  7. Thank You Yankee Troller! I haven't pulled the trigger, yet, but am close, so your input is very timely. I do understand that the cone angle is generally narrower on CHIRP xducers Trolling Lake O is the primary need for advanced sonar, for sure. I am liking the "pretty picture thing though. The Simrad evo3S has two sonar channels. I was thinking that getting the CHIRP xducer now, then adding additional xducer(s) next year to unlock the second channel's forward scan, side scan, total scan etc. capabilities would be the way to go. Do you think I'm approaching this backward? (Wouldn't surprise me,...) I'm fairly committed to a thru-hull xducer. The hull is aluminum, so stainless body xducer is the way to go. Gladly accepting your "spiritual advice." Thanks again, Neil
  8. John, Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? You don't have to answer,... Guess I was just lucky that the boat was already jacked up and sitting level and square against the wall For a pretty stupid post topic to begin with, this is really working out for me! Thanks! Neil
  9. Finally got useful information from Airmar on suitable sonar and temp/speed transducers for an aluminum boat. Their response to my plea is below my sign-off. Thanks to everyone who responded to my post! 'Best, Neil Airmar's Response: "The best transducer for this application will be the airmar SS75M sensor as it is very versatile and can fish in the water column as well as on the bottom. In addition it is a stainless housing which will work better for the aluminum boat hull. if you choose to add a speed and temperature probe it will need to be one that transmits via NMEA 2000 such as the airmar ST800PV-N2."
  10. HB2. Yup, that'd work! I had a level w/me, but not a speed square. I also have a angle indicating level, but not w/me, either. Just trying to share the quick and dirty method. Most everyone has a cell phone nowadays,.. 'Best, Neil
  11. I was just told that there are aps for smartphones that have angle measuring capabilities,... Not knowing this yesterday, I came up with a quick and dirty method to measure a hull's deadrise angle using the EDIT function on an iPhone. This method requires the boat be on level ground (jack stands etc.) and a wall or a piece of straight lumber be positioned perpendicular to the keel of the boat. Hold the iPhone against the hull with the long, flat, "top" side of the phone parallel to the hull. With the phone in contact w/the hull as above, take a picture looking at the wall or piece of lumber. Go into the EDIT function for the picture and select CROP. Use the ROTATE function to make the piece of lumber or base of the wall parallel to the gridlines in the edit function display. Read the angle from the display near the slider you used to make the grid parallel with the wall. The further away the wall/lumber is and the longer the wall lumber is will help improve the accuracy. I actually believe this is good enough to work within the accuracy required to order a tilted sonar transducer.
  12. Shakemsam, Thanks for the well wishes. The pucker factor from having no sea trial before buying it is fairly high. I just keep telling myself I can handle anything it throws at me, just having a hard time believing it. I've installed new engines in I/O boats before, but the prospect of doing that when the engine room is below the salon is daunting. Oh, and there's two of them. I looked at just about every Marinette listing in the western half of the country and came across the Bonnie Castle one in A Bay. I never actually went to look at it. There was another one in Port henry, which could theoretically be sailed from there to Lake O, but would take a long time. I think I'd rather cruise from Lake Michigan,... FishingFool34, Thanks for your input! I am scratching at the functionality and features of the NSS MFD's. I do know they "do wireless." I'm looking forward to that capability, though I'm not there yet (my cell phone still has an antenna that you can pull up). One of the things I figured that would be very useful for is for when the autopilot is installed and then, theoretically, could change course using a tablet or whatever without having to be at one of the helm stations. I have a long way to go with the "modern" marine electronics, starting at the bottom with an appropriate transducer. Thanks again! Neil
  13. Shakemsam, The Marinette at Krenzer's is a roach. I looked at it and said, "no way." You'd have to have it given to you to make it worthwhile and then still have a ton of work to do to get it livable. On the other hand, if you and a couple buddies decided to buy a fishing platform and were only going to use it to thrash up the water, it might be just the ticket. I was hell bent on getting a Marinette. This is my fifth boat. Three previous were aluminum. The plastic boat had few redeeming qualities. My budget may have had much to do with that, but still,... I have a great appreciation for aluminum as a hull material. In late September of 2019 drove to Michigan to look at several. The things that put me off from any of those was the cost and hassle of transporting them back here. There was a pretty nice one down on Chatauqua lake I nearly bought called Reel Freedom. The cost of getting it from down there was nearly the same as from MI. For whatever reason, Chatauqua has a ton of Marinettes. I think I counted 12 in the marina I went looking at. If you've been looking, you probably know the boat I bought; it was listed in Macedon on the canal. It was not easy to buy because the owner lives in Virginia and is about 80 years old, so he couldn't come up. Thinks got tricky and I wound up buying w/out a sea trial, or even an "official" survey. Fortunately I have friends that do that and they said I'd probably be OK. So I pulled the trigger last October. Very strange buying a boat w/out a sea trial, but the boat is in pretty good condition. There was some corrosion issues, but I blasted the bottom and then put 13 coats of Interlux on it followed by 5 coats of bottom paint. Best looking part of the boat now. Ultimately, the boat is a compromise. It's a sedan flybridge and I wanted a fisherman, or whatever the model is that has no salon. That the lower helm is inside will make it a little less convenient, especially when solo fishing. Hopefully with the new marine electronics and interfacing an autopilot to it (the Simrad is supposed to play well with the Hynautic hydraulic steering), that will be less of an issue. Very strange buying a used boat that's never been fished. It's nice to plot out my plan of attack the way it makes most sense to me and not have to recover from other's mistakes, but folks that fish their boats usually do a reasonably good job of making things work. I'll have to live with the self-criticism when I put holes in that virgin aluminum and then realize I should have put them in a different spot. Still not follow up from Airmar,... Neil
  14. Shakemsam, I'll have to go look at the Big M site again. So, how is it that you are so aware of Marinettes? Neil
×
×
  • Create New...