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Everything posted by Pierless

  1. I bought my 9.9 used. Because it came with controls, I didn't have to make this decision. On the 26' Islander the cables that came with the kicker wound up reaching to the helm just right (kicker mounted on starboard side of stern). The control box was mounted to the carpet covered side pocket, which was 1/2" ply (I think) down low, just above the storage locker the helm pedestal stuck up through. That position worked pretty well. When I had crew, the helmsman had all the controls where he needed them. When I didn't have crew and was fighting a fish, it was easy enough to reach. On slow days when you're trolling around sitting at the helm and need to change speed, no need to get up. If you're generally going to have crew and they take direction well (throttle instructions) it's probably easier telling them what to do than having having to do it while fighting a fish. Last thought; if your GPS speed, paddle wheel boat speed and down speed instruments are all at the helm, that's where the throttle control should be? FWIW, I had an ancient Johnson 10HP tiller kicker for a long time with just an EZ-steer. Changing the throttle on the tiller was a hassle in comparison to the forward controls at the helm with the 9.9 Merc. You're going to love having a kicker. The 26' would troll 9+ hours on 6 gals of fuel unless it was really windy and you were heading into it all day (what you have to do in aluminum boats with lots of sail area in windy conditions). That you can take the tanks off the boat and fill them at the corner station is a savings over running on the main (probably with bags, making it even more inefficient). Best part is you have two sources of propulsion. That is a major safety factor and gave me confidence to go out whenever (especially during the Coasties and Sherriffs "off season").
  2. Baddad1, The trade-off w/aluminum boats is light weight. The 26' Islander had a hard top, so there was always a lot of sail area. The 9.9 Merc had remote throttle, start, etc. However, sometimes a finer control over the throttle would have been nice. The tall gunwales allowed me to solo fish the 26'er a lot, which is why I always wanted an auto pilot. If you've always got a mate, you'll be fine!
  3. Badad1, Having never had a remote steering setup, I can't answer definitively. However, I ran a 26' Islander w/9.9 Merc kicker for 15 years and wished I had remote steering every one of them! If battery capacity is an issue, maybe just having the remote control the kicker makes sense. If your kicker has an alternator, that won't be an issue, right? The main's I/O acts as a rudder to some degree. Not having the kicker linked to the main would eliminate the rudder effect it adds to help control the boat. Real question to ask yourself; "Wouldn't I enjoy being able to remotely steer the main when not using the kicker?" There are times when conditions overwhelm the kicker's ability to control the boat adequately, 'least there were on my Islander. If you can swing it, control the main's steering and link w/EZ Steer.
  4. Wallyandre, Thanks for your input. By no means am I saying cost is no object. However, I have budgeted to get the best/most applicable modern sonar gear for the new boat in the expectation I will have it for at least the next 10 years. Also, I am looking for through-hull transducers. Not saying transom mount won't work, but with twin inboards, xducer placement ahead of the prop shafts is optimal. I will continue to monitor this thread until I have selected and installed a xducer, whether it be a CHIRP, or not.
  5. Yankee Troller, PM received. Will call you Tuesday. Thanks! Neil
  6. Yankee Troller, I greatly appreciate your opinion. Thank you for offering it. Your credentials are known by me. As I said, I haven't pulled the trigger, yet. Your input is making me think about things differently. Perhaps we could have a phone call or meet up to cover details that I've yet to perceive? I'd rather support a LOU member than the Evil Empire (like shopping at Guitar Center instead of Stutzman's) Let me know if you're available. 'Best, Neil
  7. Thank You Yankee Troller! I haven't pulled the trigger, yet, but am close, so your input is very timely. I do understand that the cone angle is generally narrower on CHIRP xducers Trolling Lake O is the primary need for advanced sonar, for sure. I am liking the "pretty picture thing though. The Simrad evo3S has two sonar channels. I was thinking that getting the CHIRP xducer now, then adding additional xducer(s) next year to unlock the second channel's forward scan, side scan, total scan etc. capabilities would be the way to go. Do you think I'm approaching this backward? (Wouldn't surprise me,...) I'm fairly committed to a thru-hull xducer. The hull is aluminum, so stainless body xducer is the way to go. Gladly accepting your "spiritual advice." Thanks again, Neil
  8. John, Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? You don't have to answer,... Guess I was just lucky that the boat was already jacked up and sitting level and square against the wall For a pretty stupid post topic to begin with, this is really working out for me! Thanks! Neil
  9. Finally got useful information from Airmar on suitable sonar and temp/speed transducers for an aluminum boat. Their response to my plea is below my sign-off. Thanks to everyone who responded to my post! 'Best, Neil Airmar's Response: "The best transducer for this application will be the airmar SS75M sensor as it is very versatile and can fish in the water column as well as on the bottom. In addition it is a stainless housing which will work better for the aluminum boat hull. if you choose to add a speed and temperature probe it will need to be one that transmits via NMEA 2000 such as the airmar ST800PV-N2."
  10. HB2. Yup, that'd work! I had a level w/me, but not a speed square. I also have a angle indicating level, but not w/me, either. Just trying to share the quick and dirty method. Most everyone has a cell phone nowadays,.. 'Best, Neil
  11. I was just told that there are aps for smartphones that have angle measuring capabilities,... Not knowing this yesterday, I came up with a quick and dirty method to measure a hull's deadrise angle using the EDIT function on an iPhone. This method requires the boat be on level ground (jack stands etc.) and a wall or a piece of straight lumber be positioned perpendicular to the keel of the boat. Hold the iPhone against the hull with the long, flat, "top" side of the phone parallel to the hull. With the phone in contact w/the hull as above, take a picture looking at the wall or piece of lumber. Go into the EDIT function for the picture and select CROP. Use the ROTATE function to make the piece of lumber or base of the wall parallel to the gridlines in the edit function display. Read the angle from the display near the slider you used to make the grid parallel with the wall. The further away the wall/lumber is and the longer the wall lumber is will help improve the accuracy. I actually believe this is good enough to work within the accuracy required to order a tilted sonar transducer.
  12. Shakemsam, Thanks for the well wishes. The pucker factor from having no sea trial before buying it is fairly high. I just keep telling myself I can handle anything it throws at me, just having a hard time believing it. I've installed new engines in I/O boats before, but the prospect of doing that when the engine room is below the salon is daunting. Oh, and there's two of them. I looked at just about every Marinette listing in the western half of the country and came across the Bonnie Castle one in A Bay. I never actually went to look at it. There was another one in Port henry, which could theoretically be sailed from there to Lake O, but would take a long time. I think I'd rather cruise from Lake Michigan,... FishingFool34, Thanks for your input! I am scratching at the functionality and features of the NSS MFD's. I do know they "do wireless." I'm looking forward to that capability, though I'm not there yet (my cell phone still has an antenna that you can pull up). One of the things I figured that would be very useful for is for when the autopilot is installed and then, theoretically, could change course using a tablet or whatever without having to be at one of the helm stations. I have a long way to go with the "modern" marine electronics, starting at the bottom with an appropriate transducer. Thanks again! Neil
  13. Shakemsam, The Marinette at Krenzer's is a roach. I looked at it and said, "no way." You'd have to have it given to you to make it worthwhile and then still have a ton of work to do to get it livable. On the other hand, if you and a couple buddies decided to buy a fishing platform and were only going to use it to thrash up the water, it might be just the ticket. I was hell bent on getting a Marinette. This is my fifth boat. Three previous were aluminum. The plastic boat had few redeeming qualities. My budget may have had much to do with that, but still,... I have a great appreciation for aluminum as a hull material. In late September of 2019 drove to Michigan to look at several. The things that put me off from any of those was the cost and hassle of transporting them back here. There was a pretty nice one down on Chatauqua lake I nearly bought called Reel Freedom. The cost of getting it from down there was nearly the same as from MI. For whatever reason, Chatauqua has a ton of Marinettes. I think I counted 12 in the marina I went looking at. If you've been looking, you probably know the boat I bought; it was listed in Macedon on the canal. It was not easy to buy because the owner lives in Virginia and is about 80 years old, so he couldn't come up. Thinks got tricky and I wound up buying w/out a sea trial, or even an "official" survey. Fortunately I have friends that do that and they said I'd probably be OK. So I pulled the trigger last October. Very strange buying a boat w/out a sea trial, but the boat is in pretty good condition. There was some corrosion issues, but I blasted the bottom and then put 13 coats of Interlux on it followed by 5 coats of bottom paint. Best looking part of the boat now. Ultimately, the boat is a compromise. It's a sedan flybridge and I wanted a fisherman, or whatever the model is that has no salon. That the lower helm is inside will make it a little less convenient, especially when solo fishing. Hopefully with the new marine electronics and interfacing an autopilot to it (the Simrad is supposed to play well with the Hynautic hydraulic steering), that will be less of an issue. Very strange buying a used boat that's never been fished. It's nice to plot out my plan of attack the way it makes most sense to me and not have to recover from other's mistakes, but folks that fish their boats usually do a reasonably good job of making things work. I'll have to live with the self-criticism when I put holes in that virgin aluminum and then realize I should have put them in a different spot. Still not follow up from Airmar,... Neil
  14. Shakemsam, I'll have to go look at the Big M site again. So, how is it that you are so aware of Marinettes? Neil
  15. Not sure which engine is in that particular boat, but there are likely two solenoids, one on the engine block that is actuated by the ignition switch (actually called a "starter relay") and the other is the high current solenoid on the starter itself. If you use a piece of heavy gauge, well insulated, wire and some thick gloves you can jump around the starter relays to put power to the starter solenoid, which should make the starter turn. IIRC, the key doesn't need to be in the RUN position, but if you're trying to start it, that'd be OK. The starter relay might look something like this: The jumper wire needs to contact the two large studs either side of the relay. Expect sparks! (make sure there is no fuel vapors!) Good luck, Neil
  16. Shawn and Shakemsam, Thanks to both of you for your time and insight. I've got Airmar to respond to my e-mail of yesterday, but they asked the questions I gave specifics to in my original inquiry. Maybe they'll offer guidance, but you guys are already way more responsive. Thanks again! The terminology for transducers isn't easily understood. When I wrote "thru-hull" I meant hole-in-the-bottom-of-the-boat kind of thru-hull. That is what I've learned through trying, in vain, to find the appropriate transducer. The Alumaducer tip was a good one though. I investigated the "shoot-through-the-hull" transducers by Alumaducer. They definitely looked like the way to go because who wants to put a hole in the bottom of any boat? My research showed that they don't work so well if the hull material is more than 0.1" or so. the 5/32" works out to ~0.156". I figure if I'm going to spend what I consider to be big bucks on a sophisticated sonar system, I might as well get the transducer that will unlock it's potential. And, yes, Shakemsam, you pegged the boat; it's a Marinette. I've been on the Marinette forum. A dude who goes by "Fast Jeff" seems to be the most knowledgeable Marinette guy anywhere. His input was to use a transom mount transducer and showed pics of his installation. I think his words were, "easy peasy." Yeah, I'll give you that, but turbulence at the transom of a twin inboard has got to be worse than on an I/O. I'm planning on putting the transducer midships, well ahead of the prop shafts. That ought to get it into as smooth a flow as possible. Thanks again and I'm still open to recommendations from those who know! Neil
  17. Shawn, Thanks for the information. Every little bit helps! Yes, the boat will be used for trolling Lake O for trout and salmon. The Airmar 165HW is a transom mount transducer. A ransom mount could work, but the performance of thru-hull transducers are commonly stated to be superior, or at least rarely inferior. I've only ever had transom mounted transducers, but on a 32' boat it seems the thru-hull is the way to go. Naturally it would be nice to see the bottom at cruising speeds, which a thru-hull ought to be able to do fairly well. The aluminum hull thing makes installation of a thru-hull transducer a bit more challenging in keeping corrosion at bay. There are some plastic bodied, thru-hull transducers out there, but don't look like they are capable of chirping, at least from my lack of knowledge. It seems silly not to have a fully capable transducer with what will probably be the be and and end all marine electronics set up I'll ever have. It's disappointing that Simrad doesn't seem to be available for help. Maybe I'll try giving Airmar a shot. Thanks again for the help! Neil
  18. After years of using old and outdated electronics, I bought a new to me boat that has never been fished. I'm starting with a clean slate. The ultimate goal is to use the new electronics for everything from depth sounder to autopilot. The Simrad NSS9 evo3 is likely the Multi-Function-Display I'll acquire. I'm planning on upgrading the MFD to a larger display when I can afford it and move the 9" to the flybridge. The NSS9 evo3's depth finding features are so far beyond what I've ever had before that I'm not sure what to get for a transducer that will allow me to use the features it has. The new boat is aluminum with 5/32" thick plating below the waterline. I'm not sure if the thickness of the hull material makes a difference for CHIRP capable transducers, or not. I've written Simrad for advice, but have gotten no response. I don't think I need side scanning sonar, so that makes it somewhat easier? Does anyone have a recommendation on what a suitable, thru-hull (hole in the bottom of the boat), transducer for this MFD please? Thanks! Neil
  19. BP Swing, Really? VHS, eh? Never thought of that,... shoulda though. You said you couldn't see it too close. I clicked on the image and thought it was pretty clear/close. Closer than I ever like to look at myself anyway! So, if it was VHS, or if you do catch a fish with VHS, should you keep it/not put it back? Just wondering. It's probably too late to stop the spread much, but if if keeps an infected fish out of the population that can't be a bad thing, no? Let me know if you know. Thanks, Pierless (Neil)
  20. OK Guys, I'm back from Derby fishing and my brother finally sent the pic of the beat up pike I caught in Sodus Bay . Here it is, let me know what you think got at this thing and beat it up so bad and if it's a male, or a spawned out female. Best Regards, Pierless (Neil)
  21. Thanks for responding guys. Nope, the fish I caught last Sunday looked like someone took a few whacks with a Stanley Surform (remember those?) to it. And, a Stanley Surform looks something like the inside of a pike's mouth with lots of sharp things that look like they can remove flesh from the bone efficiently. Still waiting for my brother to send a pic,.... I'll post it when he does, but I'm fishing the LOC for 10 days and will be (blissfully) away from the computer until the 11th after tomorrow. If I get blown off the lake, I'll resort to the bay and that has proven beneficial with a nice 9lb 'eye last year on such a day. I'll post pics if that happens to be successful. "Frayed lines and chomped on lures!" Pierless (Neil)
  22. Cheers, I see you have a plan for Firday then, eh? Tell me which way to point the boat! See you Friday, Pierless (Neil)
  23. Hey Y'all, I fished Sodus Bay last Sunday. The pike were biting, though I was looking for brown trout after being blown off the lake. I was trolling stick baits. We caught three in about an hour off of planer boards. At any rate, about 4:30 we had a release and managed to boat a very long, but rather skinny, pike. It was all beat up with scars on it's body in several places. So, my question is why was this fish so beat up? I'm guessing it was over 35" long. I skipped the scale/tape measure to get it back in the water ASAP (a pic was taken, but brother hasn't sent it yet,...). The marks on it's body were definitely not lamprey marks. I thought they kind of looked like what a pike bite mark might look like. I'm wondering if it was a spawned out female, or if it was a male that might have been fighting to keep it's territory. It was so skinny that it couldn't have weighed more than 6 - 7lbs. I don't know much about a pike's breeding habits, so I'm hoping one of you on this section of the LOU might educate me. I'll post the pic if my brother ever sends it,... Thanks! Pierless (Neil)
  24. Rusty Rat, Yeah, it was a very chintzy fuse holder. What blows my mind is that I had the exact same problem on my car radio recently. The tuner wouldn't "remember" the radio pre-sets, but it powered up and played just fine. I crawled around under the dashboard (never a pleasant proposition, but worse for someone who is 6'4",...) and found, you guessed it - a broken fuse holder. So, in the past 4 months I've had two in-line fuse holders spontaneously fall apart. Weird. Further blowing my mind was the fact that on the DR's power cable I had two critical failures - the fuse holder and the cable/connector itself! I second, third and fourth guessed my splicing in of the in-line fuse holder - it just couldn't be, y'know? I checked continuity between each splice and found it to be OK, but checking the last splice to the inner contact on the plug end of the power cable - zilch. Here is the good news: I called Depth Raider just now. They were initially saying that if it's a year old, it's out of warranty. However, they found my warranty information and said that they would send me a new power cable. So, it's good that they are helping out. In the mean time, I'll be splicing this "S_it Shack" power plug onto the cable so that I can maybe use the DR unit this weekend. I also like the unit very much, so I'm hoping that I can get it to work with the repair I'll make. If the repair does work (meaning the fault is in the molded connector, as I suspect) I'll probably keep the replacement cable on board, but already fitted with a new in-line fuse holder. Fishin' Time! Pierless (Neil)
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