Shakemsam

Looking for the display monitor only.

If anybody has one, shoot me a PM

Thanks in advance!

2 hours ago, Mikeyman104 said:

The fish finders. The TM has a universal one built into it but it's not connected to any display or anything.

If you're running the FF on the TM battery, that could be your problem.

I am pleased with my Traxstech's.

Are you using the TM transducer, or the FF's?

Thanks guys! I have used the round ones but they didn't seem too stable. I will check out the Trax's.

Just curious what guys use for cradles, or if you even use cradles for the 16# torpedo weights? 

I run one piece 7's with regular rings and twillys, on the inside . NP's!

The B117 on one and I would just do the GT30 on the other.

6 minutes ago, Silver Fox said:

I used to subscribe to it till I called my insurance company and they said save the receipt and they’ll reimburse me if I need a tow. Some years ago off Wilson, my coupler went and tow US said about 4 hours. Luckily Lucas F came out and got me with the boat he was fishing on. Point is, call your insurance company.

Same situation for me while Island camping in the St. Lawrence.  Tow Boat told me 3-4 hrs.  I drifted to shore and tied up to a tree, next to a private launch. The owner allowed me the time to walk 3 mi to my truck and come back and use his launch. I did all this in under 3 hrs. Never renewed with TowBoat.

41 minutes ago, wallysackett said:

I was looking at the Boat US tow insurance and it looks pretty reasonable and that there are some boat locations near the Rochester area. Anyone have any experience with them or offer any recommendations or insight? 

Not sure what you mean by locations near Rochester. I think it gets you perks at West Marine but the Roch store is pretty useless IMO. Better off investing in a reliable kicker!

11 hours ago, county61s said:

Have a 90 Yamaha v max, pulled it out of storage. Put on muffs and it took about 2 min for any water to come out telltale.   it was steam them not real strong stream but a stream, and it was very hot water. Is that common for first firing it up and with using just mufflers???

Put it in a trash barrel and see if it's any different. When I use muffs, I wrap a bungee around it tight but it is still slow to stream.

3 hours ago, DtD said:

SAM...read your caveat regarding accidentally going to OFF . Wat would be the consequence you warn us about ?

Thanks, Dave

Frying the alternator for starters. 

10 hours ago, laker1 said:

Some thoughts and questions

 

Can’t you switch your Perko from 1 to 2 or to both while running? Please advise.

The suggestion to colour code your battery leads is a great idea.

My 8hp Honda charges my main battery thru a circuit block that connects to my electric rigger while trolling. Seems to work really well.

How or what do I need to change my manual planer board mast system to electric? Getting tired of cranking. 
And lastly I am using an older Minn Kota battery charger to charge my trolling motor batteries from inside the boat. Should I trade in this charger for one of the new Minn Kota precise charger series? Is there an advantage?
 

jim

 

You can switch the Perko from 1 to 2 or to both, while running without issue. The problem is if you accidently switch to off while doing so. That could be a real bad day!

13 hours ago, Long time fisherman said:

Thanks Rolmops! The long transducer is a Mega side Mega down. I thought it has to be lower than the smaller one to avoid interference. Does this make a difference?

Distance apart might but up and down should not. Biggest issue would be if they are the same frequency or cone angle. My2cents

Is the control wireless? I have heard the wireless Trollmaster's do the same thing. If it's not wireless, try isolating the wires from other electrical harnesses. Maybe run it through some flex conduit?

14 hours ago, Crappieman1 said:

The great news is I have found the leak!! After removing the fuel tank and putting in on the water I seen where it was coming from. It was the port side under the runner. Now I have to take the floor up and fix it

Unfortunately, you will most likely have to remove the runner as well.

I always ran on 1 and occasionally  would run on 2 to keep everything charged. I always tried not to switch while the main engine was running. 

It's not over thinking! The more connections, the better chance of a bad connection! In a perfect world, your Battery should go to a battery selector switch, Switch common to main engine as well a separate feed to a breaker continuing to a fuse panel, all capable of handling the amperage load.  Your kicker directly to the cranking battery, but ideally to it's own. Bilge float directly to battery with an inline fuse. FWIW...I run a breaker and panel feeding my console electronics and another breaker and panel for the stern (riggers, 12v supply, Depth Raider, TrollMaster, 

Remember, that 6 amp alternator won't put out 6 amps at idle and most likely not at trolling speed.

All tarps are waterproof....until they tear or breakdown from the sun.  expect 3 years of hard use before you replace it.

JMO and everyone knows what those are worth...lol.. but if you really want something to have access to grab the boat and go, you would be better off with a carport or something similar. 

Whatever is closer will give more opportunities to enjoy the boat.

10 hours ago, mr 580 said:

Sounds like you have a VHF Radio with DSC capability which when connected to a GPS can send a formatted distress call to USCG if you have a MMSI number.  Sounds complicated but is relatively simple and inexpensive to register your vessel information.  Can get MMSI through Boat US free.  Worth looking into IMO.  Different piece of equipment than a CB radio.

Def not a CB. VHF radio wire colors are all standardized. just google the model and you can probably find a manual.

If it is a true CB and not a VHF radio, then they could only be for external speakers and a PA.

Ran an older Johnson for years that developed same traits. Chased it for 3 years before I found a Johnson TBI bulletin on Iboats recommending a slow speed jet change to 2 sizes up to compensate for changes in the fuel.  Not to say it will help, but something to think about.

28 minutes ago, Torts said:

I’m thinking of sealing up the transom with either bondo fibreglass resin or total boat penetrating epoxy. Any thoughts on these. Also any suggestions for a closer cell foam. Most I’m seeing are in a liquid I was hoping for one in a spray can. 

Nothing available in a spray for the DIY that I'm aware of. For the sealing, I assume you're talking about the plywood in the transom. You will most likely have to sandwich 2 pieces or maybe 3 for the correct thickness. Total Boat epoxy is fine but not necessarily the penetrating type. Lots of info on youtube.