Shakemsam

41 minutes ago, wallysackett said:

I was looking at the Boat US tow insurance and it looks pretty reasonable and that there are some boat locations near the Rochester area. Anyone have any experience with them or offer any recommendations or insight? 

Not sure what you mean by locations near Rochester. I think it gets you perks at West Marine but the Roch store is pretty useless IMO. Better off investing in a reliable kicker!

11 hours ago, county61s said:

Have a 90 Yamaha v max, pulled it out of storage. Put on muffs and it took about 2 min for any water to come out telltale.   it was steam them not real strong stream but a stream, and it was very hot water. Is that common for first firing it up and with using just mufflers???

Put it in a trash barrel and see if it's any different. When I use muffs, I wrap a bungee around it tight but it is still slow to stream.

3 hours ago, DtD said:

SAM...read your caveat regarding accidentally going to OFF . Wat would be the consequence you warn us about ?

Thanks, Dave

Frying the alternator for starters. 

10 hours ago, laker1 said:

Some thoughts and questions

 

Can’t you switch your Perko from 1 to 2 or to both while running? Please advise.

The suggestion to colour code your battery leads is a great idea.

My 8hp Honda charges my main battery thru a circuit block that connects to my electric rigger while trolling. Seems to work really well.

How or what do I need to change my manual planer board mast system to electric? Getting tired of cranking. 
And lastly I am using an older Minn Kota battery charger to charge my trolling motor batteries from inside the boat. Should I trade in this charger for one of the new Minn Kota precise charger series? Is there an advantage?
 

jim

 

You can switch the Perko from 1 to 2 or to both, while running without issue. The problem is if you accidently switch to off while doing so. That could be a real bad day!

13 hours ago, Long time fisherman said:

Thanks Rolmops! The long transducer is a Mega side Mega down. I thought it has to be lower than the smaller one to avoid interference. Does this make a difference?

Distance apart might but up and down should not. Biggest issue would be if they are the same frequency or cone angle. My2cents

Is the control wireless? I have heard the wireless Trollmaster's do the same thing. If it's not wireless, try isolating the wires from other electrical harnesses. Maybe run it through some flex conduit?

14 hours ago, Crappieman1 said:

The great news is I have found the leak!! After removing the fuel tank and putting in on the water I seen where it was coming from. It was the port side under the runner. Now I have to take the floor up and fix it

Unfortunately, you will most likely have to remove the runner as well.

I always ran on 1 and occasionally  would run on 2 to keep everything charged. I always tried not to switch while the main engine was running. 

It's not over thinking! The more connections, the better chance of a bad connection! In a perfect world, your Battery should go to a battery selector switch, Switch common to main engine as well a separate feed to a breaker continuing to a fuse panel, all capable of handling the amperage load.  Your kicker directly to the cranking battery, but ideally to it's own. Bilge float directly to battery with an inline fuse. FWIW...I run a breaker and panel feeding my console electronics and another breaker and panel for the stern (riggers, 12v supply, Depth Raider, TrollMaster, 

Remember, that 6 amp alternator won't put out 6 amps at idle and most likely not at trolling speed.

All tarps are waterproof....until they tear or breakdown from the sun.  expect 3 years of hard use before you replace it.

JMO and everyone knows what those are worth...lol.. but if you really want something to have access to grab the boat and go, you would be better off with a carport or something similar. 

Whatever is closer will give more opportunities to enjoy the boat.

10 hours ago, mr 580 said:

Sounds like you have a VHF Radio with DSC capability which when connected to a GPS can send a formatted distress call to USCG if you have a MMSI number.  Sounds complicated but is relatively simple and inexpensive to register your vessel information.  Can get MMSI through Boat US free.  Worth looking into IMO.  Different piece of equipment than a CB radio.

Def not a CB. VHF radio wire colors are all standardized. just google the model and you can probably find a manual.

If it is a true CB and not a VHF radio, then they could only be for external speakers and a PA.

Ran an older Johnson for years that developed same traits. Chased it for 3 years before I found a Johnson TBI bulletin on Iboats recommending a slow speed jet change to 2 sizes up to compensate for changes in the fuel.  Not to say it will help, but something to think about.

28 minutes ago, Torts said:

I’m thinking of sealing up the transom with either bondo fibreglass resin or total boat penetrating epoxy. Any thoughts on these. Also any suggestions for a closer cell foam. Most I’m seeing are in a liquid I was hoping for one in a spray can. 

Nothing available in a spray for the DIY that I'm aware of. For the sealing, I assume you're talking about the plywood in the transom. You will most likely have to sandwich 2 pieces or maybe 3 for the correct thickness. Total Boat epoxy is fine but not necessarily the penetrating type. Lots of info on youtube.

it's labor intensive but once to start drilling out the rivets to remove the splash well, you will see it's not that bad. Plus you can get to replace all those thru transom bolts and seal everything with 5200.. Replacing the foam is optional. lots of info out there about the pros and cons.

Generally, I would say it's picking up some trash.  Look at the board itself for something bent.

I would keep looking. Not a 4winns fan and not really a fish friendly boat. I would put it in the category of a family day cruiser that dad can occasionally. fish on until the wife sees you drilling holes!

The Cobra's are ok. A step up from the previous OMC's but still not as easy to work on or for parts as merc.

I can't imagine you will find anything in the Rochester area. Should be somebody in Sodus or between there and Henderson.

38 minutes ago, rolmops said:

And for good reason. The group that I fish with usually rents a place in Olcot for a week. It makes for a lot more action.

Besides, it is sort of a yearly tradition to start the season.

Agreed. And I do the same, usually at the Oak.

Just another reason why there is not another weigh station. 

12 hours ago, GAMBLER said:

I doubt it would make a difference in their sales.  The number of fishermen that fish the derby from Ibay is low.  IF they use the launch and fish out of Ibay, they are not going to pay for gas on the water when they can get it way cheaper on land.  

Agreed, the numbers out of I bay or even Rochester in general are crazy low compared to the west end or Sodus.

Long ago when it was locally owned, the weigh station was at the Port of Rochester and then it was moved to Rochester Hollow Grinder. Back then, it was truly an event!

Water is kryptonite to wood, regardless of type or strength. Make sure to seal both side and extra coats on the edges.

6 hours ago, Mikeyman104 said:

Thanks all! I hadn't thought of wiring the riggers to the cranking battery because I did that in my old boat and the riggers drained it. This was cause my kicker didn't have electric start or an alternator so while I was trolling and using the riggers, it was just draining my crank battery the whole 6 hours. I do need to buy a kicker for my new rig so i'll be looking to see if i can get a deal on one with an alternator. 

 

I'm not an electrical guy by any means, so i've never really wanted to dive into the battery switch and isolator world. Then again, in my old boat i only had 2 batteries and everything was just wired directly to where it needed to be. I got to read up more on both the switches and isolators to get a better understanding of them. 

 

thanks again all for the suggestions and input!

Unless you are running your riggers constantly, they should not drain your cranking battery.  It may have been something else that was a constant drain, combined with the riggers. Keep in mind, it is not enough to just have a kicker with electric start. it is about the size of the stator and how many amps it puts out.