jekyll

I slip my boat in NY therefor, I register it in NY. I live in PA.

I use 30 lb between my dipsies and flashers. I like it.

John:

I posted pictures taken in the back of the boat back in August while the fish was kickin'. The smile was there. I smiled so much, I wore it out. I'm charging it back up for the 40 pounder that I'll catch next.

Also, I won't let you bleed anything over 15 pounds this year.

Yankee, if your guy is half as good as Fran, you'll be pleased.

Chris:

I don't recall from the survey you sent me if this boat comes with the kicker but, I think you are adding one. What about adding an A/P to the kicker only? A TR1 on the kicker will satisfy your tolling needs.

Chowder:

I have 2 Talora dipsies that I retired: an 8' and a 9'. I took them out of service and replaced them Daiwa Heartland dispies. It's a personal preference issue. I wanted all my dipsies rods to be the same manufacturer so they would all bend the same with dipsies. It aids in keeping track of what's going on down below if all your rods react the same.

These rods were used with braid and look new. Available for sale or trade. I would be interested in a rod and reel for a 10 color core in exchange.

The Taloras are good rods but they have a faster action then the Heartlands so they bend or arch differently. Also, the graphite collects static electricity when a thunderstorm is in the area and you can get popped by them.

The one on the bottom doesn't give up. Now it's after your balls.

Ray, you sick freek!

I salute you.

Semper Fi

Did I say that correctly, furled means no sail or was I 180 out?

I had a D**n blow boat overtake me from 8 oclock last year. He was under power with his sails furled. I had a planer board out about 50 feet on the Port side and he missed it by several feet and continued bast my bow by no more than 20 feet. He watched me the whole time. I guess I was in the wrong becuase I was between him and his port. Seems to me that in this situation, the overtaken boat always has the right of way. I should have answered his arrogance by giving his a 16 oz ball. I did blow the horn once he passed my bow. I was a bit shocked by his arrogance.

I was 5 miles rom shore and no other boats were within several miles.

With right-of-way, you can be right but, you can also be dead right. Taking the right-of-way when you have it can result in a pulpit in your pilot house if the other guy doesn't see you or care about the rules. Some guys use only the "Big Lake, Little Me" rule.

I switched to a 15# crome shark on my probe rigger and my catch rate on that rigger improved. It bacame my hottest rigger. Geez, maybe I should replace my other rigger balls.

Yeah Bill, others out here use braid. I use both braid and wire. I concur with everything Ray said except I use 30# for deeper diving. Braid does collect fleas more than wire and they don't come off as easily as from wire but, the other attributes make it very attractive. Braid is much better than mono for fleas (collects less and cleans far easier). I got a braid dipsy all SNAFU'ed with copper last year and there was no damage to the copper. Can't do that with wire, the copper would be toast. I think the wire out produces the braid by a tad but I haven't performed a statistically valid test. Maybe I'll put them out identically this year and answer the question.

I received my 2008 mount from my taxidermist this weekend. It’s a 32#, 0 oz, 43 inch king I caught on 8/10/08. It was a week after the Little Salmon River Challenge and a week before the Fall LOC. My wife and I were fishing on our first anniversary. This was the second hit on a king double. My wife was 15 minutes into a 15 # king when this guy slammed the thumper. The thumper was out 210 feet with a 16 oz ball over 290 FOW and 2.0 mph. Thank God for autopilots or this would have been a royal FUBAR. As it was, we were forced to pull everything because this guy had his own agenda.

I had Fran Mosier of Wildlife Art Taxidermy in Mexico, NY mount it on drift wood instead of a more common oval plaque. I also had Fran include the rig he fell victum to. It was all from A-Tom-Mik, the Pro-Am Tournament fly behind his green trash can dodger. The fly was a rattler, not an e-chip.

Tom at A-Tom-Mik: I need another of these dodgers!

I caught a 29#, 14 oz king on my very first trip to Lake O in 2005. It took me 4 seasons to add those extra 2 ounces and break the 30# mark. I did manage to land a larger male king on the Salmon River this October but, this guy was already at Fran's. My wife hopes to knock mine off the wall this year with a larger fish. I hope she does.

Fran does GREAT work and comes highly recommended.

Here's a shot showing the fly and dodger.

I might as well add a shot of my first Lake O king. Fran did not do this one and you can see it's not nearly as good as Fran's work.

It's at the bottom of the page at:

http://www.optitackle.com/copperssline.shtml

I started bleeding them this year and noticed a big improvement in taste. Like Ray said though, not during tournements.

say RAY when useing power pro on the slide diver will the power pro slip threw at all in the diver?

Not the Ray but, Slide Diver shows how to rig up so braid doesn't slip. The kit comes with 2 different parts so you can rig up with mono or braid/wire. Simply chose your medicine and rig with the matching tube or spring. I opt to use the mono rig. As I previously said, I add a 30 yard lenght of mono to my braid. I always lock the slider on the mono, anywhere along the length I feel appropriate to the conditions. This gives me the ability to set my diver anywhere from about 6 to 90 feet in front of my spoon, plug or flasher though I usually go for the longer drop-backs.

Gray fox- I have heard of a wire slide diver, exactly how do they work, and how do you set one up?

Our leaders are 8 feet between the diver/spin doc.

Raider:

Buy a slide diver, open it up, follow the directions, catch fish. Buy the Slide Diver Lite Bite; it has a better release than the original. The slide diver is functionally the same as a regular dipsy except that the main line moves through the diver until you have the set back length you desire. Once the line is out, you lock the arm just as you would set the trip arm on a dipsy. This locks the diver to the line at that spot until a fish hits or you pop the release. When tripped, the slide diver slides down to your leader, flasher or a swivel stop you add to the line. If you use a 4 foot leader then the dive slides to within 4 feet of your fish. You can have the diver slide to your flasher if you like. They can be used with mono, braid or wire. I use clear slide divers on braid because I'm going for stealth when sliding. I add 30 yards of mono to the braid which povides the stealth aft of the slider and sufficient stretch so no snubber is needed.

I really like them and find them very effective for finicky brown trout. I started using them last spring after a charter captain told me he was cleaning up on the browns using 15 to 20 foot leads aft of his dipsies. He just pulled them in hand-over-hand once his dipsy hit the rod. Seems the slide diver is a less 'cave man' way of doing the same thing. Did I mention they work well on the browns? I pulled braid sliders and wire dispies at the same time and some days the sliders out fished the wire and somedays just the opposite. This on salmon.

Their only drawback is that they are a bit more tedious to deploy than a regular dipsy however; you will figure out how to do it well after a bit of pactice. As with regular dipsies, you can add rings to them but the rings are unique to the slide divers. Regular dipsy rings won't fit. Also, you can add heavier weigths to the slide divers. I find the slide divers dive significantly deeper than a number 1 dipsy (with ring) once you add a ring and a 4 ounce weight. If I recall correctly, the slide divers on setting 3.5 (set up as above) dove about 15 feet deeper than did the #1 dipsy with a ring set on 2.5 when 200 feet back. Also, they are more susceptable to being cut off if you bounce bottom so pay attention when getting close to the clams.

Randy:

I had a Raymarine ST-6002 with S2G core pack in my Penn Yan 275 last year. I had Mike install it with parts I supplied. It cost about $2200 total. It holds great below 1 mph. You do need hydraulic steering for this to work though. Add that to the cost if you don't already have it.

I caught a male king between 32 and 35 pounds on the Salmon River this fall and released it. 2 days later, I found it on a rope about 1/4 mile upstream. The guy was very happy that I had previously released it.

Andy:

You can use Cannon terminal clips. This method gives you removable drop cables to your ball.

I like fishing for steelhead the traditional way. Nobody better try sending a float through my drift. I'll reach down from the overhanging branch upon which I'm sprawled out and grab it. Caveman fishing, yeah buddy. It's the only traditional way to fish. If you aren't dropping boulders out of trees onto fish then you had better be running through the riffs chasing after them.

I know the regs don't allow you to throw rocks at them or grab them with your hands but, as a caveman I should be able to use the old ways if I choose.

Drift fishing, fly fishing, float fishing. Pick your tool and have fun. Just remember that if you are using anything but your hands or rocks, you’re doing it the easy way, not the traditional caveman way.

Jason:

You would have nice, serene days on the water without a bunch of out of state fishermen but the money we bring that supports your recreation would be gone.

Any guesses on how much money out of state fishermen and hunters bring to New York? I myself spend thousands of dollars each year in New York - money PA would love to keep in PA. Target us and far fewer will come and the money will dwindle. Ask the charters how much business they get from out of state. Ask the hotels and restaurants. What will happen to the Salmon River hatchery when half of the fishermen disapear! Look at the licence plates on the cars around the lake and river access points and you will see how many out of state anglers are there. We bring hundreds of millions of dollars to your economy, money that funds the hatcheries and keeps the fishing economy afloat.

When you start splitting the population, you loose strength in numbers.

Andy:

It's the Line Release/Clincher Combo at:

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true

It's the item on the far rght.

Bill Ruth (Billy V) published a picture and directions several time showing how to modify this for your probe (DR or ST). It takes all of 10 minutes once you have the hardware. The modification involves drilling out the rivet that holds the snap swivel in place, exchanging this snap swivel for a sturdier Cannon snap swivel and replacing the rivet with a stainless steel screw and nut. The cable runs through the clincher by about 10 inches. Attach an eye terminal to the end of the cable (strip the connection pioint for continuity) and attach the terminal under the nut. You end up with a conductive terminal that allows you to remove your probe when desired. It's good juju.

Here's a picture:

Chowder:

If this is for your probe cable then attach a Walker terminator release. Works just like the Blacks but it can be easily modified to send the probe signal upline.

Chowder:

I switched to a 15 # chrome faceted shark on my probe rigger in August. My MAG-10 seems OK but the wieght is noticable - the circuit breaker popped once and the fuse blew once. I seem to be catching more fish on that rigger than the non-shark riggers.