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Everything posted by jekyll

  1. I don't care for Convectors on wire rods. Any slack and the wire goes between the spool and frame requiring disassembly to fix. They work great for short cores, copper and mono, even braid. Love the handles - I put Convector handles on my AD+ and LC47s.
  2. Try TJ Amato. He has a lot of the old data. Contact info is on his web site. http://pennyanboats.com/
  3. I used 89 ethanol for a couple of seasons when the Marinas stopped carrying ethanol free. I used treatment with most every gallon. My boat died on the lake this summer and I was towed 7 miles back to dock. The entire fuel system from tank outlets to the carb required replacement (including carb rebuild). All lines, pump and seals were eaten up by the alcohol. 97 Penn Yan 28 footer with a 350. Perhaps my fuel system is as alcohol friendly as mine now but, once bitten, twice shy!
  4. I fished the lake and river as hard as normal and, caught less than 10% of last year's catch. In 30+ days on the lake, I caught fewer than 30 mature kings. I thought they would eventually show up in the SR but, I caught fewer in the whole season than I did last year in a normal day. I had to go to smaller streams to find good numbers of kings this year. Don't know what happened - flood of 2010, cold winter, invasive species??????? Maybe we have a well hidden population of seals eating all the fish.
  5. Yeah, I learned bout those danged sand fleas at Parris Island in 76. Try blousing yer trousers.
  6. I don't spend money on top-shelf swivels for this application. Dipsies don't spin.
  7. Crimp not needed. Double the line on itself and tie an overhand knot, making a loop an inch or two big. Attach a large snap swivel to the loop and you are done. Snog down the knot, clip the tag end.
  8. Freespirit, should have moved west where I told you we were on Saturday. Had good fishing for this time of year. 7 for 10 or so each morning, mostly mature kings, with 1 or 2 lakers each day. 150-250 fow, 80-100 down (100 was best). Spoons and FF but, FF better. 400 and 450 coppers were hot, mag dipsies at 200 on setting 1.5, #1 dipsies setting 2.5 out over 300.
  9. I seem to get 1 about every 2 years on the Lake. They are always different. This one is a very nice sample. I saw the one caught out of Mexico Bay 3 or 4 years ago. That one was 34 lb (Red Line if I recall??). It was tested by State biologists since it was up for the State coho record. It was a beautiful fish, record or not. I was given a 29 lb Kingho 2 years ago by someone who prefered a smaller fish for the table. I've caught a fair number in the rivers. I don't know if they are sterile or not but, they do make the runs and do transmogrify. They stand out in a crowd and have unusual patterns. I've caught several that looked like dog salmon.
  10. Mag dipsies MUST BE deployed slowly. If not, they WILL twist the line around themselves. You can see this for yourself by letting one go back quickly at the surface. You can see the nose turn towards the bottom when you release tension.
  11. Counting the catch and release poundage, about 4 cents per pound last year. Counting what I kept, about $2 per pound.
  12. 500 miles round trip. I do this 20 times a year for the lake and the rivers.
  13. Found them tween Oswego and Mexico Bay Sunday out deep.
  14. Depends on how deep I want a a rig to run. I attach the board right at the backing ifin I want it down 10-12 feet. I let out more if I want it deeper. Yesterday, I added a 3oz divebomb then 50 feet to the board to get it down about 25-30 feet.
  15. I recommend the same as Bazooka Joe. I really like the Torpedo swivels. I use a #2 on my coppers and cores for salmon using either spoon or paddles, and #1 for trout. I use a heavy Spro swivel between the copper and flourocarbon.
  16. Might save your money this year if you are only fishing the last half of August (buy gas and flies instead). Much of the copper stays in the boat once kings start staging. 4 riggers and 4 dipsies can put a lot of scales in the boat. Your 2 lead cores with a 4 oz dive bomb can get you down to the same depth as the copper - run these off in-line boards. With 2 dipsies off the out riggers, 2 dipsies off gunnel mount rod holders (or off of rigger rod holders), 2 cores off boards, and 4 riggers, you will be a well-dressed man on the lake. Copper can be a challenge for a new guy to learn. You will be taking on a very technical sport and your boat is already more capable than a lot of boats. You have a lot of learning to do in your first trip. The challenges of water depth, temps, speed and down depth, not to mention the idiosyncrasies of salmon will definitely keep you guessing for a week. Copper on your first outing can be a disaster. IMO, a new guy should learn riggers and dipsies first as these are not only easier, but are the bread and butter of salmon fishing. Learn the long lines after you gain experience with trolling techniques, boat handling (in a crowd), and salmon habits. Copper can be extremely troublesome when working it close to the bottom. As August progresses, the fish move in closer and shallower. 450 copper can run about 100 to 110 feet if you trust the standard sink number of 22 feet per 100 feet at 2.2 mph. You may be working 80-100 foot depths which benches the 450. Even a 400 will bottom out in turns and if your speed gets too low. Copper can really mess up your day when combat-fishing staging fish. Just a thought or 2 for consideration.
  17. Line counter is not necessary. You deploy the entire copper when using it behind boards. Add tags, tape or other markings to the line every 100 feet if you want to run partial lengths down the chute.
  18. 300 feet of copper takes more space than does 300 feet of lead core. 45 is small for copper.
  19. Copper John has a nice 22 Penn Yan. Auto pilot and trailer come with it. I've been on this boat and it is pretty nice. http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/tags/forums/For+Sale/
  20. Yes, I should have said I use 40 and 50 lb Power Pro on my coppers. I broke several in my first 2 copper seasons using 30# braid. I still use 30# mono on my cores and have never had an issue with waves, boards and big fish. I connect to big boards with shower curtain rings and rubber bands. I've learned to make 2 loops in the line where I attach the rubber band keep the braid from slipping. I use a rubber band to lock in the braid on in line boards. I choose not to add any more knots than necessary in my lines. I've heard of guys adding a 1-foot section of mono every 50 feet in their backing in order to keep mono in the clips and have adjustment options. That is a lot of knot tying and, more importantly, a lot of unnecessary failure points.
  21. I would not use backing of lesser strength than the line on top of it. The general rule is backing stronger than core, and core stronger than leader. You want breakoffs to happen at the leader, not at the backing. Braid is fine for backing, especially if spool size is small. You can put a lot of 30# braid under 27# lead core - more than possible by using 12# Big Game. 30# braid is touted to be the same diameter as 8# mono; I'll to to trust the advertisers on this. Mono works better in planner board releases. Braid may slip in clips. Mono has stretch, braid does not. This provides a bit of give to the line when attached to boards. I've had 30# braid backing break at the board on coppers but, I've never had a 30# mono backing break at the board on a 10 core. Mono stretch can also buffer the stress on a rod in a holder when using in-line boards. Mono is usually easier to untangle however, braid can be bought in many colors. I have 4 different braid colors on my coppers which really aids in untangling lines. It can be really difficult untangling 2 coppers if both backings are green Power Pro. It is significantly easier when 1 backing is red, 1 is yellow, etc. All said, I use 30# Big Game under 27# core and Power Pro under coppers. Your results may vary.
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