CaptSpike
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Posts posted by CaptSpike
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If you go out on the lake when there is a small craft advisory in your boat and you look around a say "holy ****, I'm gonna die" then your boat would be considered a "small craft"
That is the method I use, LOL.
Spike
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Reel Doc I have mine hooked up to an older gps thru the nema connection. Problem is at trolling speeds the AP doesn't get enough info from the gps and sends me a warning that it isn't using speed from the gps anymore. I talked to a tech at Garmin and the reason the AP wants to know your speed is so it doesn't make a turn too tight and throw someone out of the boat. Since I only use mine for trolling you don't even need to provide speed to the AP if you don't want to. It works great for trolling. If you were looking for double duty IE high speed control and low you would need to get the speed to the unit. I have found at higher speeds my gps communicates fine and no sharp turns. Though I only ran this once as a test.
Spike
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I believe the Coast Guard use to designate any vessel under 65 ft as a small craft. I did a little searching and found references to that but no hard documentation. maybe it has changed? It was a while ago that I read that.
Spike
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If anyone buys a Garmin gh10 autopilot and needs the Mercury Verado kit I will give it to you for cost of shipping. When I purchased my unit one of the mounting rubber feet broke and they sent me this kit because it was suppose to have one in it. It didn't and now I have this kit I can't do anything with. So since I do not need it if anyone does it is yours for the cost of shipping. I'll hold onto it until spring but after that I'm going to get rid of it one way or another. I don't need a bunch of stuff hanging around the house I wont use, have enuf of that already.
Spike
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Love my Garmin GHP-10, works on the kicker & the main outboard.
X2
Spike
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Lightly used Display and cables (power and antenna) from a Cannon intellitroll (the new version). I bought the unit in Aug. last yr and used it for one trip to Ontario. Brought it back out this yr and the probe quit on me so I needed to fix replace what I had to salvage the trip. Ended up being a competitors unit so I no longer need this one. I sent the probe back to Cannon and they confirmed the probe was no good. They gave me credit for the unit and didn't ask for the display back so I am trying to recoup some more money from getting rid of a unit less than one yr old. Lots of people have these and they work for them, others have had nothing but problems with the probes. If you have a probe that is working for you and you would like another display I have one to sell.
I'll start at $100. Pretty sure you wont get any cheaper than that (if you do point me to them and I'll lower my price, lol) Seriously I have no use for this anymore so offer me what you think is a fair value and it is yours. Buyer pays shipping.
PM me thru this site for contact.
Spike
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New rigger just arrived. Cannon stood behind the bad product and made it right best they could.
Does anyone out there need an antenna and display? Price will be right.
guess I'll list it in the for sale section.
Spike
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I'm glad it worked out for you. I'm patiently waiting for my Mag 10 STX to arrive.
High Bidder
Did you get this yet? I opted for the same deal, less out of money expense for me vs the digitroll. On my size boat I could have had battery power issues if I used all that the digitroll can do.
I didn't really need all the bells and whistles anyway.
Curious when you get yours as I would expect mine shortly thereafter.
Spike
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The Trax riggers look nice, and what was said about the riggers that are paid for and work fine are hard to replace was right on as well. The only rigger that I would sell a scotty for and buy right now is one that will find the bottom and track it with the weight.
Cannon used to make one (rigger & depth finder all in one unit) and it worked for me -- I sold it to buy their new one -- BIG mistake.
If Trax added this feature I would have one next spring!!
What about the new ones don't you like? I assume you have the digitroll 10. I am considering them but may switch over to Scotty now. I am on the fence and need a push one way or the other.
Spike
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Just heard back from cannon. they are willing to give me $550 credit towards a mag 10 digital or plain mag 10. I tried to get them to discount two since I had bought two of their units but since I no longer have the first unit they wouldn't provide a discount for that one. I guess anything is better than nothing, now I just have to decide what I'm going to take.
Spike
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I suggest a pair of these.
Damn I was thinking of patenting what i made up. Does the same things these do. I wonder if your suppose to cut these to length or if the flex??? I wouldn't think every ram is the same.....maybe they are?????
Thanks for the link.
Spike
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Yes transom savers, which held the motor pre AP just fine. Now it will lay over to the point of coming out of the Transom saver.....It is a 150hp Honda.
Spike
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After purchasing my Lund Sport Angler I upgraded to hydraulic steering. I use two motor supports, one for the main engine and another for the kicker. I would get some creep out of the wheel which would set the main engine just off center but not enough to bother the motor supports. This yr I installed an Auto Pilot and now the main engine will creep all the way over till it lays sideways. There seems to be enough pressure for the motor to creep that it broke the tube on the motor support. I ended up using the built in motor support and disconnected the kicker to get home without damaging the support again. I have since made up two pieces of wood that I insert on either side of the piston so the motor cannot creep (it hits the wood in either direction). Question is why am I all of a sudden getting more creep? Is that inherent of the Auto pilot install?
Thanks,
Spike
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A lot of guys out our way were putting John Deere engines in their lobster boats. When I had mine built I went that route and never looked back. I had a 220hp JD in my 28 and it ran great and used little fuel. Probably not an option on the Pursuit but if it is look into them. Very good reviews from users that work them hard.
Spike
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My faith in Cannon is renewed. After contacting them they said they can't fix or replace the Intellitrol but they will send me a value comparable item. I chose the Mag 10 STX downrigger. If I sell my mag 10HS I will have part of the cost to buy a Fish Hawk.
High Bidder
That is great. I think I'll look for a similar situation.
Spike
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You are not alone. See here:http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34018
I am in the process of dealing with Cannon on my failure. It sounds like they will fix it, but for how long will that last? I had to buy another brand unit as my unit failed the first day of our yearly trip and I needed a working unit. What am I supposed to do with a fixed Cannon unit when I get it back? Sell it to another consumer so they can have problems with it?? Not my style. It would be different if the company was still selling them and had faith in the unit themselves. The fact that they removed the product from their line shows that they do not have any confidence in the product and we the previous consumers are left holding the bag. I am not happy about this at all. If Cannon doesn't make this right I may never own another Cannon/Johnson's outdoor product again.
Spike
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I had the same problem two yrs ago and it has now resurfaced after my last trip. Motor goes up and will stop when the down is pushed but will not go down. First time I just replaced the switch, I will replace the switch again and see if that solves the problem. I did not check any continuity on the switch.
Hopefully just changing the switch will fix it.
Spike
Well I changed my switch but it didn't work. My Cannons are Mag10HS's about four yrs old. Then to top off the one rigger issue the other rigger quit working going down on the trip I took yesterday. So now neither of them goes down.....
If it isn't the switch is it definitely the board? I was thinking of upgrading my riggers but didn't want to invest another $150 to get these working to sell....
Thanks
Spike
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Put some lock washers under the thumb screws and that should take care of the issue.
The problem is unless the thumb screw seats flat the lock washer wont do you any good. The screw rests on the diameter of the post not the external housing. It isn't like attaching two parts where the screw would seat flat, it is like a jam screw so the screw sits proud of the housing when the post is locked in. You're not likely to get the thumb screw length and the washer thickness to match with the "clamped in place" distance. You could drill thru the housing and mast and use a detent pin to hold the mast from coming out but the mast would float around the inner diameter (not a tight fit) of the housing and eventually something will wear (more slop) or break. Best is to just keep a drive with the socket in place for quick easy in and out. Also note when mine is removed I place a blank piece of aluminum (same diameter as the mast) in the housing and tighten that in place so my screw doesn't get lost (fall out). You could also just tighten the screw with no post down onto the housing but then every time you need to install the mast you need to back it out far enough to insert the mast. Having a piece the same diameter as the mast allows for faster install (if you're worried about a few extra seconds, lol).
Let us know what you end up with.
Spike
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You may want to rethink that. A thumb screw will loosen fairly easily especially if you get any vibration at all. I use the hex screw that came with the unit and have a socket drive in my rigging bag for quick assy and dis-assy.
Spike
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Most diesels will not get down to trolling speeds without troll valves. i had a lobster boat swinging a 28x28 prop, 6knts in gear at idle. May be different on boats without a straight shaft drive but all the deisel boats I have been on needed troll valves to lower speed. On a good note if the boat you're looking at doesn't have troll valves the boat likely hasn't fished a lot of hours on the troll so the motors/tranny may be in better shape.
Spike
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Chamberlain releases are basically a blacks for the upper part modified for finite adjustment on the lure side. You can crank a rod right down without worrying about the hookset tension. I used them last week for kings for the first time and they pulled the flasher flies without any problems. Was nice not worring about false releases due to wave surge. We use them local so shakers will trip the release and your rod can be loaded up. More money but a sweet design.
Spike
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I just installed the GHP10 in my Lund 18' Sport Angler. Best advise I can give you is to plan your installation out. If I had to do it over I would change the pump location. The below deck units are nicer than the steering wheel units but cost double. With the amount of trolling I do it was worth the extra $$. Only got to do a sea trial set up so haven't used it in action yet. If it performs like it did on the set up I will be very happy. Nice and quite. I was a little concerned on the warning that the GHP 10 was only designed for main motor use not a kicker. I have my kicker tied into the main engine steering and want an AP that would do both if I so desired. I don't see why trolling at 2mph on the main engine is any different than trolling the same speed on the kicker. I didn't use the tach for speed set up I am using a GPS so there shouldn't be an issue (I hope).
Your boat is even smaller than mine so fitting a below deck unit could be tricky without exposing the components to weather (which is not recommended on the install directions.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Spike
Got to try the AP out over the past trip to Ontario in some rough conditions and it was awesome. So glad I got the GHP10. Well worth it and quite!
Spike
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I had the same problem two yrs ago and it has now resurfaced after my last trip. Motor goes up and will stop when the down is pushed but will not go down. First time I just replaced the switch, I will replace the switch again and see if that solves the problem. I did not check any continuity on the switch.
Hopefully just changing the switch will fix it.
Spike
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I can add an update to my probe as well. I also went to Ontario for my annual trip. A half hr into fishing my probe quit. Prior to that I was still having the intermittent reading issue. I had tested my rewiring job and ground to the hull on a local lake at home for a few minutes and thought it would be squared away now. Was I wrong. first day of my trip and it is dead. Left the water and found an X4 at Woody's. Installed it makeshift to get me thru the trip. Now I am trying to deal with Cannon. I asked them why I should be stuck using a unit they wont even sell anymore due to issue with them? They offered to replace the probe if it proves to be bad. I'll send it in and then at least I can sell a working (for how long???) unit. Not sure I feel great about selling a unit to another consumer considering the manufacturer wont sell them anymore. Bad PR for Cannon as far as I am concerned. This is twice I have been burned by them. The first probe design I bought and they discontinued it the next yr. Now 1 yr after buying the new improved design they stop making them as well. Not getting a warm and fuzzy on Cannon products right now. I was going to upgrade my mag 10's next yr but if I do I may have to take a hard look at the other manufactures after this ordeal. If anyone has a Cannon unit and it works fine I'd be glad to sell you mine as a back up once the replacement probe comes in. I obviously have no use for it now having bought the X4. The Cannon unit has literally been used for 8 days only!
Spike
2 color lead core reels
in Tackle and Techniques
Posted
X2
We just peel line off and top shot the core. I do leave a bunch of reels set up with core and switch them out for mon reels when the fish go deeper and I want to run them of the riggers. have also run the core off the riggers to get closer to structure without risking the loss of a weight.
Spike