retsey

All are good suggestions.

Here was a photo of my boat I sold last year. As the one gent mentioned, you will gave enough bite to clamp the motor on.e

I also suggest bolting it to the transom and be sure to use a backing plate and M3 marine sealant .

I would do anything you could not to use a mounting bracket. It's nice to keep the motor as close to the transom for many reasons.....less weight overhanging, easier connection bar, easier to net fish on the port side, easeasier to lift up if you don't have a power tilt, ect...

I ordered mine from Digital Oasis and it came in 3 days. The lady even called me to confirm my credit card number.

You don't see that anymore ! My son has also purchased through them.

My Boat is a 2006 and has Seastar hydraulic steering and the S1000 is for hyd steering. NMEA, ect...

You get everything including the wrenches, extra fluid, connectors, CD instructions , ties, ect....

I have not installed it yet so I'll find out how things will go but it appears straight forward.

I do plan on constructing a foam/insulated box for around the pump and keep it on stand-by in case I need it to reduce the noise that is might give off.

I did look at the Garmins and know they have a really nice unit but might be more that what I need.

I just received my Raymarine S1000 for $980.

I researched for a while just as you are and finally spoke to two guys that have them and with no problem.

The one owner actually installed his along with two other owners and none of them have any issues.

Don't get me wrong, I'm sure the S1000 is not as fancy and quiet as the Garmin but all I need it for it to stay on track while trolling and not running. As far as I'm concerned, you should never be away from the helm when running.

Thank you guys and thank you mudflat.

I have done a lot of reading as everyone does and am aware of the noise from the pump.

I read the same thing about the Garmin also.

Let me ask since you have experienced it first hand. Is the kind of noise more like vibration in which this can be dampened in the way and what is used to isolate it ??? or...is the noise mainly from the forward reverse of the pump working and what might be the shuttle regulating valve working?

If the second is the case than there may not be much that can be done except maybe wrapping the pump head with some kind of isolation/noise material. But if that is done, we need to be concerned about it overheating.

On the other hand, I don't mind the noise so much because if anything you know how hard the system is working and will be able to tell by the tone if something is not working.

I'm looking forward being able to bring in fish , net and put out lines without worrying so much about the boat turning on me! I'm sure my dad will enjoy it also since he does 75% of the steering while I'm doing the rigging and setting.

Hello Guys,

I realize and have searched the past on this subject but just thought I would ask for your experience to see what I can learn before I install my auto pilot in the spring.

I purchased the Raymarine S1000

I have a walk-around with a removable wooden/carpeted internal panel like most. I do plan on cutting and installing the largest access (13X30") marine door to just to be able to access and inspect the pump and controller once it's installed.

What I would like to know is your experience and what you might have learned as far as the location of the components.

The instructions do a good job but there is nothing better that first hand experience of the do's and dont's.

I realize the pump should be mounted below an close to the helm but as far as the controller...is it okay to mount this near right under the boat compass by around 24". You can see the compass in the photo and I visulaze the controller being well below it by 24-36". Will this effect anything?

Keep warm and Thank you in advance

You hit the nail right on the head Mike !

I to fish for steelhead in maybe 15' wide streams and maybe 2' deep and yes Fluoro makes a difference.

But not for great lakes fishing. I like others also do a lot of walleye fishing in Erie with the same hardware including dipseys hanging from the lines and riggers and we catch our share of walleye.

The temp probe swinging around 8-10' in front of a bait transmitting signals does not appear to effect the bite either.

This happened to one of my Cannons this year. Pretty common I guess.

I purchased another cable from fish407 for around $21and took minutes to replace.

The new ones are a redesign and have a solid pin instead of the somewhat hollow ones that came with my 4 year old units .

I then repaired the one that was damaged by drilling out the hole that the pin was in and trimming the head off a steel nail to length and forced it in the hole.

I am sure the repair will work just fine but I will save it as a spare when the pin pulls out on the other rigger.

I then used applied electa-grease on all.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

All comments are understood and makes all the sense

I will print this thread out and try a few things.

If anything...it raises a good point of why I am running my dipsies at 3-1/2 when I really don't have to. I will start running mine at 2 and that way I don't have to let as much line out and I can get deeper if needed.

Thanx again

This is my first season running 300' of copper line.

Question...how do most guys run these?? off the boards , down the chute , off a high mounted rocket launcher holder?

I am spending more time un tangling the copper from my 3-1/2 setting dipseys that are out 250 - 280 ft. I'm sure the copper is rinking and sweeping to the side and making contact with my dipsey and end up with a disaster to a point I have to bring the rod in and deal with it on shore.

What am I doing wrong?

Should I be moving my rod around based on the turns or current?

Also, does the copper line raise when running a spin doctor from it?

Thank you in advance guys

yep...I had the same thing just happen to me and ordered a new cable connecting to the rigger for $21. I will be sure to use electa-grease on them now.

My riggers are never connected for more than the weekend since I take them off when done after the weekend.

take r apart and check the switch. if you know someone with a meter, have them check to see if current is going through the switch

Run the cable through the skuffer holes if you have them.

You may have to slightly file the turn knob that attaches to your sonar.

FYI..I held 7" centers on the rods and they go in and come out easily even with that larger reals.

Marty

I used a 18' Crestliner ( with windshield) with a 90 yam and 15yam kicker on Erie and Ontario and boated many fish. As everyone states , you just have to plan a head and no your limits.

We have also found that you can stay in less than 200 ft of water during July/Aug /Sept and still catch may fish.

Easy to escape the weather and you will also save on gas.

Here is what worked for me. Ran some rough water with no damage.

What is nice is the storage takes up dead space and not live space that could be used for something else.

We could all use more space.

Marty

I will take a few photo's over the weekend and will post them.

What worked out nice for me is I mounted (screwed) the tip end of the holder rack to match 4 screws that were used for the overhead vent.

I only had to drill two holes in the top and of the cuddy and used stainless steel bolts, larger washers and nylock nuts so the vigration does not loosen the nuts.

Although not really requited, I used a bungie cord / eye bolts to secure the butts of the rod.

Marty

Jeff, I made a 4 rod horizontal rack and mounted above in my cuddy.

No more worrying about damaging rods. I store my ss wire, copper rod and lead core rods overhead and theye are secure when running. I cut the holder out of solid plastic building PVC board.I made the tip end out of rubber pipe couplings so they don't get damaged and to absorb the shock while running.

The nce thing about they way they mouned is that it is dead space in the cuddy that would never would get used.

I'll try to take some photo's this weekend and will post.

Marty

Thank you guys....I just wanted to make sure everyone knew what I was asking before I loose that big one or my copper line and hardware at the end.

As I mentioned, I bought my first copper rig last year for salmon but I think it will do good this year with 200' of line out (44' deep) for those suspended walleyes in Erie. 45' seams like where they want to suspend later in the season out in 60-75 fow.

I like the heat shrink concept to mark the lengths. That way I can trim it off if and remeasure / reattach if I have one of those bad days (Have to cut lines) that we all have once in a while.

Once again, thank you guys.

I had the same kicker (Yam, 15HP , 4 stroke, 25 inch) on my 18' Crestliner and was easily able to get down to 1.5 mph for fishing walleyes. It was a great motor and would not use any other except the 9.9 high thrust that I bought for my new boat.

Great on gas also....troll 7-8 hrs on a few gallons....other guys would not believe it until it came time to split the gas money !

Understood Brian but is it okay to let that "soft" copper bend in the tip eye of the rod? I was told where I purchased the set up that you should not do that because it can weaken the copper and make it even softer. I was told that most guys just let all the copper out to the braided line.

What do must guys do to let out random lengths within the copper?

Hello Brian, I bought my copper set up last year. But I read that you should not be flat lining and having the copper bend in the eye because that will become a wear/weak point. That is why I thought maybe using 5' of mono 16 200, 300 ft to allow me to stop the copper at those points.

Knowing that most guys put out all of there copper line (22', 44' 66' 88' depths)....what does one do if spooled with 400ft but only want to go 44 ft deep. I was thinking of inserting/splicing in a 5' long 50 lb mono nat 200' to allow the mono to be at my guide. I realize these are two additional knots but lets face it....line really does not see that much tension when 300 ft of line is out compared to when you have the fish close to the boat.

Any tips?

Hello Ray,

I just picked up my T9.9.

Questionm How deep is that Adventure Marine fixed bracket? That is...the dimention from the back end of the transom to the center where the motor mounts on?

I wounder how much room is needed for the throttle cable to bend and go back into my splashwell.

Thank you in advance

I run a 18' Crestliner and my son has about the same boat.

We have caught many fish out of Olcott and Oak Orchard.

No real reason to go out in 400-500-600 FOW ALL the time.

I'm a believer in pounding the under 200 fow and you will get the fish.

They are there!.....Staying in and under 200 fow allows you to escape if conditions get rough or just tuck in closer to shore which is not a bad idea either <(*(((())))< . Sure ...we all wish we had a larger boat but look how easy it is to launch your boat and you will operate it for less money.

Thank you Nick

As many have suggested and makes the most sense.....

I have purchased a 6 way fuse box and will plan on running 6 gauge from #1 battery to the panel

I believe will wire my main motor and kicker to the 2 way perko switch and run all off my #1 battery which will have everything wired to it. That way I will use #2 battery as a backup/emergency only. I will also use a 100 amp main breaker as secondary protection. Since there will be minimal connections to the battery.

However, I will run the bilge pump direct to battery #2.

I will also run my radio through a switch and run it directly to one of the batteries so I don't loose my pre-sets.

One last question ...is it okay to run my main and kicker motor direct to the Perko?

Is this good for the motors ?......another words ....will the current being discharged from one damage the other?