retsey

Thank you AC.

Others have recommended this manufacture and I might just purchase it.

I just wonder if will make the kicker stick out to far from my boat.

Do you or someone else knows how deep the bracket is?

Thank you

Good information guys.

I will consider all of this including using a 6 fuse box which I already purchased from West marine and a main (110 amp) braeker.

Thanks again to all that have contributed.

Sorry for the typo - The Crestliner is a "SuperHawk" ( with windshield as shown ) and not fishhawk.

Kgonefishen,

Sorry for not getting back...just noticed page two of two on the thread.

Good information here.

I have West Marine looking up a price for the Seastar kicker . Here is the rear of my 2006, 21' Hydra Sports. I thought about ging to a 23' but I launch all the time and wanted a size that would be easy for me since I'm not getting any younger if you know what I mean.

Anyways ...here are some photo's and what I have to work with. I do plan on relocating the ladder to the star side and mounting a T9.9 Yam, 25" with a fixed bracket that I will have fabricated out of stainless.

I spoke to Teleflex/Sea Star today and they confirmed that he rod will stick out 14" from the end of the tub on the kicker. So I will haveo set my kicker 28/29" from the center of the main motor to keep it from sticking out beyound the side of the boat. (hate to hit it on the dock you know)

Any suggestions/thoughts / concerns ?

Thank you gents.....this is one of the best hidden sights around and just loaded with useful information.

$16,500 - Crestliner – SuperHawk – 2004 – 18’-3†- green

This boat / trailer is easy towing and can easily be launched and handled by one person !

I have launched it from Elk Creek, Erie, PA many times without a problem.

The boat can be taken out of the water and tied down, covered and ready for the road in a matter of minutes. Motors are very gas efficient and run perfectly with no problems.

All welded aluminum / Stainless Steel Grab rail in bow / large casting deck in rear

Yamaha , 4 stroke 90 HP – F90TLRB – with hydraulic trim and extra props and transom saver

Yamaha, 4 stroke 15 HP (stickered 9 HP) – F15PLRC kicker motor with hydraulic trim,

4 blade high thrust prop and extra prop.

Both motors had regular scheduled oil changes with “synthetic†oil.

Minn Kota Trolling Motor – Auto Pilot, 24 volt, 80 lb thrust with 2 foot controls.

Bow mounted trolling motor slide bracket

Boat buckle tie down.

Bilge pump

Eagle 480 GPS / Fish sonar / Antenna (optional)

Dual Console with windshield , 39 gallon tank

CD/AM/FM radio with 4 Sony speakers

ICOM IC-M402 VHF Marine radio with 8’ Shakespear Antenna

Four (4) comfortable pivot seats with posts. (drivers side is adjustable)

Plenty of storage in front, back and lockable side storage.

One (1) throwable PVC

side bumbers

Two (2) fish / bait live wells with water circulation

All lights working

Dual throttle controls for main and kicker motor.

Two (2) deep cycle batteries mounted in front for trolling motor

One (1) 1 year old starting and controls battery in rear

1 – Dual Bank - Minn Kota on board charger

1 – Single Bank - Minn Kota on board charger

Bimini top (high profile) with clear front shield and side curtains. (all zippers work !)

Bow cover / Motor covers / Rear zipper Enclosure (never used) and towing / mooring cover.

(mooring cover has pocket for trolling motor

Qty (2) 30†long Pursuit slide tracks + (2) 6†mounted on back corners of gunwale

Qty (11) vertical rod holders (dual 4 in front + 3 in rear)

Horizontal rod rack

TrailMaster Trailer – Matching Boat

Matching boat color complete with aluminum step ups, covered guide rails.

Vertical launching guides with lights / Front jack / Tie down strap

Custom Rims with (1) matching spare Rim and tire

Hydraulic Disc Breaks / Bearing buddies

Ungraded to LED Lights

Pivot Tongue

Thank You Total Chaos, Good information that I will fololow.

I did my a main 6 outlet fuse box based on another suggested from this site.

I will follow your suggestion about tapping off my Perko.

Question though.

What do you use battery #2 for ? mainly emergency back-up?

I was planning on running my Fish Hawk (temp/speed) direct to battery #2 becausr I just don't want any interferance since the unit is so sentitive.

I was planning on running my riggers to battery #1 that way is is charged continuously from the kicker. Your thoughts ??

So, when I wire my kicker ...where do I wire it to ??...battery #1 or to both #1 & #2?

One thing that I did with my Crestliner (that is currenty for sale) is I bought a high volume bilge pump with a 6' flex corrugated hose that I wire gator clips to as a back-up. I placed the pump at the lowest spot in. That way on emergency I can simply clip to a battery and start pumping. (PS, I did this soon after a friend of mine plugged his bilge with weeds during some aggresive waves and he had a heavy 4 stroke on his Crestliner waves were coming over the transom while trolling.)

This is the 2004 Crestliner with 90 & 15 hp yamaha's that is for sale in case anyone is interested.

Hello guys, This is my current set -up.

150 hp tied into a Perko dual switch to 2 batteries.

I will be mounting a kicker (9.9T Yamaha) and need to tie in my riggers.

Question...will a 9.9 kicker really put out enough current to chage batteries. I was told you need to be really operating at high rpm's to charge a battery.

What would you suggest at the set -up to chareg both batteries. Should I take both riggers and accessories to battery #1 and use #2 as a back-up.

I do plan on installing a dual 6 or 10 amp on-board charger for when my boat sits a few weeks.

What do you think about the Minn Kota DC chargers to sharge battery #2?

Thank you in advance.

I run the same set up for the same reason......that is....two different units.

I do have both transducers mounted but not operating. You will not be able to mount them fara enough apart becasuse the cones will overlap with each other.

The transducers will interfere with each other if they are op-operating at the same time. I simply do not connect the lead for the unit I use as a GPS.

Hello lakebound88,

Let me ask...are you able to steer it from your the steering wheel of your main motor and are you able to obtain full trim of both motors and turning.

I really don't want to operate a kicker from a remote control all the time. I am a muskie fisherman also and I like to watch the gps & sonar, make quick turns and hit weigh points.

Dave,

I know what I don't want as far as a kicker bracket and that is one that pivots up, ect...

No reason to have one of those type if I'm buying a kicker with trim to lift the prop out of the water.

That is what I have now on my Crestliner and would not go for anything less.

Also, I don't need a $4,000 kicker rocking around on a pivot type.

I will have a local shop manufacture me one and have it galvanized.

I measured off my current kicker that is a 15hp , 4 stroke standard Yamaha (not high thrust) and I know the bracket needs to set out 13" to allow the motor to swing up and to give enough room for the cables, ect...

I'll give Yamaha and Troll Master a call over the holiday and we can compare notes.

This is what I have to work with. I plan on moving the swim platform to the others side and mount the kicker on the port side

Marty

Hello Dave,

I have worked out all the detailers with the marine that I will be buying the 9.9ht kicker from but have not purchased it just yet. I will place an order after the holidays. Actually , I was hoping I could pick up a 2011 for a few bills less.

I'm looking at $4,000 for a 25" with , power trim/tilt, external switch for tilt also, non tiller and throttle. They will be charging me $300-$400 to install the kicker on my bracket and run the throttle.

I questioned about the remote control feature that Yamaha show on the web site as an option and the salesman said he would get an aswer fro me to what that is for.

FYI...I do plan on purchasing an auto pilot down the road.

Dave...I am leaning toward the Sea Star kicker steer since my main motor allready has a Sea Star hyd steer.

What are you going with for the steer?

I plan on purchasing the Troll Master Pro 2.

Are you going to contact Troll Master to see make sure the Pro 2 is compatible with a Yam 2012?

Let me know what they say and if it is compatible.

If not...I sure will be before I Order the motor.

Keep in touch Dave.

Marty

I like the ideas guys.

I will implement the ideas.

Thank you all

yep ..I agree Ray...keep with a heavier gage. I just did not know if this would reduce current for so small draw of electrical.

I just pulled my manual for thr Fish Hawk and it says to run a seperate wire to the battery. I remember talking to Trvor at Fish Hawk and he said it's a good idea to run a seperate line also. I guess before it's all over with I'll be running all new lines and run them through a conduit tube or wrap from the battery to the console.

Thank you Glen and Ray,

Glen...good point...I believe I will run a second line but not connect it while I am at it as emergency in case I get interferenece with the VHF.

Ray, good suggestion about installing a fuse box. Makes sense to have all fuses at one place.

Do you really thing I would need 4 gage wire for the light current these would draw?

Plus, 4 gage wire would be very expensive.

Thanks again guys.

Hello guys,

The boat that I just purchased has a Garman unit that I will use only as the GPS.

The two batteries in the erar do have a 1-2-both selector switch.

It does not appear there is a buss bar inside the console to wire extra electronics.

But there is a negative buss bar in the rear hatch where the batteries are.

I need to wire the following :

- Sonar

- Fish Hawk

- VHF radio

- Troll master

My question is ...I was planning on running a new main power wire (with a fuse of coarse) from one of the batteries in the rear to inside my dry console to a new buss bar and ground that I can use for these four devices .

I was planning on mounting an on-off switch off the new main power for these devices so nothing drains my battery if I forget to shut something off.

Do you feel this is okay or would you wire the electronics differently....any suggestions??

Thank you

Marty

KHello K Gonefishin. I spoke to a tech guy at Sea Star/Teleflex and he was very helpful.

He convinced me but then ....We need an opinion proof from a few users. I checked the price and its a bout 4 bills.

I like it beacuse of no connection rod between the two and unlimited tilt , trim and steering to worry about. Any the fact that I don't have to worry about anyone stealing the $220 EZ Bar (PS...wow, nice mark -up and lots of profit made on those EZ Steer bars !)

Marty

Sorry...wow , the photo actaully downloaded. I like this website!

Marty

Thank you guys especially Sean for the photo's and the suggestions.

Another hurdle to get over...

I plan on buying a T19.9 with 25" shaft.

I just measured the transom of my motor and this is what I About 30" from the bottom of the hull on where I believe the center of the kicker would be to the rub rail then another 4-1/2" from the rub rail to the top of the transom(gunwal height).

I understand that the cavitaion plate of the motor should be 1-1/2 - 2" below the bottom of the hull.

This leaves me the where the motor mounts to the bracket will set with around 7-8 inches below the rub rail.

Is this to low?

Thank you , Marty

Not sure if my photo is arttached or not. Is there a secret in making photos view on the web site?

Let me ask guys . I am also looking tto buy a T9.9 with power trim for my 21' walkaround.

When I look at the yamaha specs it states that there is a "remote control" feature as an option. Any idea whatthat is for.

I plan on installing a Trroll Master Pro2 and maybe the Sea Star kicker hydraulic steer cable on the kicker.

I would like to invest in an auto pilot down the road but still want to steer it from the wheel and have the autopilot control the main motor.

Any body see anything wrong with this set up.......ps, this is all new to me.

Thank you

Marty

Nice set up Sean. Let me ask, are you able to trim both the main and kicker motor up and down with the EZ connection bar in place?

Also , are you able to override the remote troll master if you want to use the throttle? or don't you suggest even using the throttle to power the speed?

But....I see you don't have any steering cable coming off the kicker so I assume you don't even have the throttle for speed hooked up and only use it for starting and trimming the kicker???

Marty

Thank you gents....I will have to mount a bracket since my transom only has the cutout for the main motor and is if a large boat design. That is, the transon is basically 6" thick wrap around from the gunwal.

Hello, Need your suggestions here.

I want to mount a kicker motor on my 21' Hydra Sports - walkaround.

As I posted below, I am leaning toward a Yamaha 9.9T once I an convinced that is the way to go.

I will purchase it with a power trim. I really don't want to fool with a swing type mount. I would rather just fix it and lift the motor out of the water using my power tilt as I do now with my Crestliner.

It this common practice and does anyone see a problem in doing this? What about the steering rod?

My main question is how do I know and what type of mounting bracket do you suggest and how do I know it is designed (long enough) to allow the motor , cables, fuel line, ect.... to pivot when I tlt it up when I run?

also...How do you suggest connecting the two motors together for steering or should I be using a remote steer.

I really would still like to steer from my main steering as I would the main motor but don't know if this is possible.

As always....Thank you in advance .

Marty

Gentlemen, I have read many of the past threads on this subject but I need clarification on this subject since I am in the market for a kicker for my 2006 - 21', Hydra-Sports, walkaround, 150 4stroke Yamaha... that I will be putting on the water this spring. I want to purchase Yamaha kicker for it.

I presently have a 18' Crestliner - Walkthru (presently for sale by the way) with a 90HP Yamaha 4 stroke and a 15hp Yamaha 4 stroke kicker with power trim and just love the motors. The 4 stroke is not a high thrust but I do have a 4 blade / high thrust prop on it. It pushes the Crestliner at 7 mph with 3 people (needed to do one time as emergency) in it which to me is not that fast. The main issue is in rougher / higher winds water I need to use my main motor to keep a consistant speed and hold the steering. Don't get me wrong ...it's fine for the Crestliner but my concern is what to use on the 21 footer.

okay, so I read all the post and it appears that the Yamaha 9.9T is the way to go but my question is does a kicker motor get better power and more consistant troll from a "high thrust" motor of a 9.9 on mounted on a 21' than I do/did on my 15hp "standard motor" that is mounted on my Crestliner or should I be juming up to a 15HP high thrust if there such a motor?

The bottom line is ...is it a different performance when one uses a "high thrust" kicker than a std motor?

Also , will a 8hp high thrust motor push and "control" the boat?

Thank you guys.

Marty

Thank you Mark and all.

This confirm my initial question.

Yes, I to think this should be the "product of the year" in the fishing industry.

It's better than sliced bread!

Marty

Hello Mortigan, Yes, the transducer is on the other side of the transducer. I have also tuned off all other electronics and tried to get to read while floating.

I have also tried tilying my transducer toward the blowback of the ball.

still cratching my head here

I am at the point of possibly just buying the new displat for $300...but I am afraid to do that and waste money if that is not the problem. I wonder if the manufacturer can help me here?