Prof T

bump

UPS costs : they are big and heavy

$86.46

I'll get a UPS quote today.

For kicker motor. Stainless $20

Location Wellesley Island / Alexandria Bay

I saved everything. Sold old boat and have upgraded. Would like to sell whole lot (if you're like me, you never know what you are going to need in a pinch)

Everything is shown in photos. Will consider trades on linecounter reels. or best offer

Location: Wellesley Island / Alexandria Bay

sold

Unitrols with long arms and swivel bases. Spare parts unit included. No weights

$150 OBO Cleaning out

Location: Wellesley Island / Alexandria Bay

Cedar Planer boards and mast. Ride high and pull tight. High vis line.

Cleaning the garage.

$40 Location: Wellesley Island / Alexandria Bay

Rod holders with bulkhead and rail mounts.

$75 Location Wellesley Island / Alexandria Bay

Location: Wellesley Island / Alexandria Bay

Took this off of my boat in 2016 when I went to a 4 stroke main engine. Ran fine, dependable. Started right up after 6 seasons, water pump works, good prop. Never used for anything but trolling. This was an electric start model, starter crapped out and I didn't replace it. Easy pull start. Not sure if it still recharges the battery, but that is all intact.

$500 w/ tank and line. STAND NOT INCLUDED

this is the one I use. Hose clap to motor housing, hangs below, stows straight forward (watch your head while on trailer)

https://leelock.com/product/lms-01-magnum-skeg/

I also run kicker for propulsion and bow mount, 80 lb Terrova with a big rudder to steer. I troll current and think the rudder provides a lot truer course with less course correction. Note that when using the autopilot feature, there are two modes.

One lays down a virtual course. If you drift or are pushed off of it, the trolling motor will work to bring you back onto that "line" and then continue. Very choppy on a windy day.

The other (on mine it's called Legacy") you lock in a direction only. If you drift or are pushed off of it, it maintains the direction only even if you are 30 ft to the side of your original plan. That's the one I use. Saves a lot of over correction.

Nice work. If anyone is looking for one, I'm putting mine up for sale. 87 boat with a 2016 Merc 4 Stroke.

Link to my craigslist ad:

https://watertown.craigslist.org/boa/d/thousand-island-park-sea-nymph-mercury/7471411592.html

I do the same on the St Lawrence, waves not the issue, but wind and current are. Consider adding a large rudder to your Minn Kota. It allows the motor to steer like a sailboat and not rely solely on thrust.

I would be cautious in the heavy chop with the rudder. If the bow is slamming up and down hard, it could add a lot of stress. In normal conditions, boat tracks like an autopilot.

I went from a 1987 Evinrude 90 to a 2016 Merc 90.....same holes

Pete, did you look under the trim tab? Sometimes one hides there.

JJ

Congratulations on the new rig! 

I've done the trolling motor steering routine for some time now, both with the big motor for thrust as well as a kicker. My motors were locked together with the simple steering rod, aimed straight ahead with the helm, and held in place with a small bungie.

You're going to love that Terrova. You can use its compass to head in a direction and it will maintain its track. Swing to the right a little and it hold it there. Hands free to do other things like set rods! Clip the remote right to my vest, always with me.

Get the BIGGEST batteries you can fit, if you are near Syracuse there's a place called Battery World, think there's one in Binghamton too. I got group 31's there. Also essential is a marine charger like a Promariner or MinnKota  to keep them topped off without overcharging. I plug mine in at the dock and forget about it until the next trip.

Finally, I put a big rudder on mine. It allows the motor to steer like a sailboat, but from the front, without relying on motor thrust only. They are used a lot on Erie, not so much here. I deal with a lot of current in the river and it simplifies that a lot.

T

To those following this post, the concern is drawing air back though the unused engine’s fuel source. That could result in a leaned out fuel mix in the primary engine. Lean mixtures burn HOT. Maybe even dangerously HOT. 15$ check valve in the supply line of the kicker is a worthwhile precaution.

Pretty cheap insurance

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--1-4-barbed-anti-siphon-valve--19682467?lsft=mrkgcl:481,mrkgadid:3312353867,cm_mmc:PS-_-Google-_-GSC>NonB>Product%20Type%20(LIA)-_-19682467,product_id:19682467,adpos:,creative:504966948626,device:m,matchtype:,network:g&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=CjwKCAjw8sCRBhA6EiwA6_IF4Top7pHpF_LaGjxCW85doe6d3DoWfmzTBsAAr57_QsfH98rNlIu_cRoCY-kQAvD_BwE

Sure, the primer bulb has check valves! Thanks guys.

That’s how I want to do it, clean install. Kicker is carburetored I guess it could allow an air bleed. Is there a check valve I could put in that line?

Thanks. Do you run a single inlet and pull each motor off individual outlets on the filter housing or a single outlet to a “y”?

New to me boat has a Merc 90 and 9.9 four strokes plumbed to the in floor tank. I’m a believer in fuel/water spin on filters. 
 

Does anyone run both motors downstream of a single filter?

I used 1/2 marine, sealed both sides in west system, 3 coats on edges. My foam floatation actually supports floor in lots of places.

Old plywood was so decayed that I was able to remove carpet intact, cleaned up nice and replaced. If I were to do it again I’d put down vinyl.