Mayb4

Herkimer but can meet up reasonably

Bump 250

I'd take one

Selling 4 daiwa accudepth 47 LCBL. These are in like new condition only used once after being purchased early 2018. I ugraded so no longer need them. Left hand models with no boat rash. 250 buyer pays shipping.can send pics if needed

1 hour ago, Legacy said:

 

Im using the Okuma White Diamond (model # WD-DR-862M). They are 8'6" and medium action. Great rod for heavy mono and flasher fishing.

i have those rods also. currently using them for chinook divers. i noticed they were a little softer also

1 hour ago, Gator said:

Rigger rods tend to be tough, to stand up to abuse and being constantly bent over on the riggers. That's why we use glass rather than carbon blanks. IMHO, you don't need a high-priced rod to whup a king. I'm probably in the minority, but I prefer short 7' rigger rods; I find that they're easier to handle, Kids have an easier time with them, too, and I've never had an issue with getting them around other rods or equipment in the spread. We use Shimano Talora TLAF70M for all of our downrigger applications. In the past, we've used a variety of different rods, generally 8 to 8 1/2 foot medium to medium-heavy, including the Daiwa great lakes model you mentioned, and honestly I can't say that I've ever felt a need to go bigger or beefier. In fact, I much prefer fighting fish off the riggers on the short rods than the 9' Dipsy rig. My 2 cents is to save your money and use what you have, unless you're just itching for a change.

its not that i want to switch things up, more of i dont want to be undergunned in the small boat. you never felt like you needed more backbone with a big paddle and big fish on? 

Hey guys I'm trying to put together a couple new 30lb rigger flasher meat rig rods. I have 2 daiwa great lakes 8'6" mediums 12-20 rods but I'm wondering if they may be a little lacking in power and beef to not get beat bad by 20lbers. Does anyone have experience using this rod? 

I also have a few accudepth rods. 2 are the med heavy 15-25s but they feel pretty cheap and I'm anticipating them breaking. Please let me know your input or ideas on what I should do. Thanks

Message sent

Sk8man what 150? Drag&snag is a buddy of mine messing with me

Bump $250

Herkimer. Willing to meet up reasonably

Selling a clam kenai pro in good shape.has otter runners seat hammock and cover. Shanty was always dried out and stored in my basement. does have a few small spots where an auger cover fell off. they are very small and were patched easily from both sides.barely noticable. i am upgrading so need to sell. Looking for $250 

i have a frabill ambush DLX thermal with tow bar and otter runners id let go if the price was right

What would you take for 2?

How much grease did you out on the washers? Thanks I appreciate it 

Hey guys I'm just wondering if anyone has replaced the drag washers with carbons in convectors. I'm really good with pulling reels apart and putting them back together I just haven't messed with the drags at all. It's as simple as replaced what i assume are felt or leather drag washers? Do I leave the carbons dry?

So I took it out today and ran the probe. Im getting a probe speed. I set it to my son speed and guesstimate my actual speed

Yeah from the front back.getting an ok temp still 0.0

I have a pair for sale also

Just did the out of water probe test. Not picking up that speed either

I had spoke to them while I was on the water once before and they had me do a few different things then just ask to use the head unit on someone else's boat. This unit worked without issue for my buddy who owned it previously. I'm thinking I have a broken ducer

Yeah I planned on having it tilted with the wheel up a bit more. Had moved it down for testing

The last pic is how I let it down for the bucket test. It had been tilted up and a little in-between

At the boat. I haven't even tried it with the probe yet

Ive ran the boat twice with 2 different anlges on the ducer