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Brian S

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  1. I used okuma dipsy rods with a twili tip in the past for wire sets and they were OK I guess. I scored big in a single lot of tackle I bought a few years ago as there was a couple of Shimano Talora roller rods in the 8 ft. flavor included. Paired them with my Tekota wire reels.....wow butter smooth and a dream set-up for wire. Perfect length too IMO. When I was running a 17.5 ft boat I learned to stay away from the 9-10 ft long rods.....not enough room. I also love my braid diver set-ups and run those all the time except during flea season, like now. 50lb Power Pro on Saltist reels and super cheap Shimano TDR 8 fters. I actually prefer it over the wire and catches plenty of fish. The braid is so forgiving especially with new guys learning to set-up the gear.
  2. I had a Lund Rebel XS 1750 and always wanted to put a kicker on it but never did. The 85" beam made the transom seem a bit narrow, but it is probably still doable. I sold that boat and bought a Fishmaster 196 and still want to do a kicker but haven't yet despite having a ton of room on this one. Instead, on both boats I installed a Mercury Smartcraft tach. with Troll Control. It allows you to adjust your engine RPM's between 550 and something like 1200 in addition to displaying critical engine data from the ECU. You can adjust it in 10 RPM increments. Depending on your type of fishing and if you don't need a tiller kicker, maybe this is an option? Cost was around 400-500 bucks for everything if i remember correctly. I am assuming however that you have a Mercury...most Lunds are rigged with them. The only downside to this is that occasionally it is hard to get down to 1.8-2.0 mph by just controlling the RPM down to 550. Normally not a problem for me as I tend to run 2.5mph or better, but if I want to harass the lakers or chase walleye those speeds are to high. In these cases I just dump in my Amish Outfitter big boards and they slow me down about another mph on there own! If you are set on a kicker, isn't the 8hp Tohatsu a twin cylinder?
  3. I have installed 2 Raymarine hydraulic AP's on outboards so I'm familiar with those caps/plugs. It tripped me up on the first install as well. That one was a conversion from cable to hydraulic steering so new helm, steering cylinder, ect. Hope it works well for you on the water, I'm sure you'll love it. Nothing like the freedom of setting lines or just hanging out in the back of the boat while the AP drives. Thanks for the write up.....good read. Brian
  4. Thanks for all the replies everyone. Nasc620, I'm assuming you have a Merc or Yammy 150 or 200? I'm not surprised that is the prop that is recommended by Vic's as alot of the Erie guys with Fishmasters seem to be running it. Thanks for your input. Brian
  5. Sherman, the current prop is a 3 blade 13X19P aluminum. I am unsure of the model but I'm assuming it is a Mercury prop. Max RPM for the 150 4S is 5800. I wish I knew what I was getting currently but it is difficult to get it to plane out regardless of where the motor is trimmed, especially in any kind of chop. That is what my primary complaint is. I guess I'll have to take it for a ride on a smaller lake when it is flat to try and figure out the current max RPM's. As far as hole shot, it seems pretty meh, to me. Bare in mind I came from a world of super charged jet skis before I got into fishing so my experience is subject to that. I attached a couple pictures of the motor trimmed all the way down on the trailer. Does the height of the anticavitation plate to the bottom of the hull look correct? Thanks again.
  6. Looking for advice on prop selection. Boat is a 2016 Starcraft Fishmaster 196 with Mercury 150 4S and the originalaluminum prop. It is used strictly for trout and salmon trolling on Lake Ontario but may serve as a cruiser, tube puller as my daughter gets older ( she's 2 now). Reason for replacing is the original prop is pretty beat up and just looking for something better to keep the stern up especially running trough the slop, 2-3 fters. Not really interested to much in sqeezing every last mph out of her. Also I troll off the main motor using Mercury Smartcraft and troll control. No kicker, but I may add one port side in the future. Typical weight is 2-4 guys, half tank of fuel and fishing gear. The internet tells me alot of folks are running a Tempest 17P for similar setups. Just looking for thoughts/advice as SS props aren't cheap. Thanks in advance.
  7. Brian S

    Sold / Closed 2019 Tracker ProGuide V175

    Got to be the best rigged boat under 18' I've ever seen. Who built the tower/planer masts if you don't mind me asking? Good luck with the sale, fantastic multi species rig!
  8. Thank you for the kind words Kyle, I really appreciate it. I've had the chance to meet several people from using the classifieds here, as well as trading advice/information with guys on a wide range of topics relating to fishing. In the past I've been a part of other forums for different hobbies and I can honestly say the folks on LOU are, by far, the best. Sent from my SM-G975U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  9. TTT Sent from my SM-G975U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  10. TTT Sent from my SM-G975U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  11. Maybe palomar for the mono first and then figure 8 for the multi strand wire. Sent from my SM-G975U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  12. I've used a simple figure 8 knot for this and a dab of glue. Sent from my SM-G975U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  13. I.D. of all seastar hoses I think are the same but I'm not 100% certain. The ends of the seastar hoses(swivel nuts) should attach right to your baystar steering cylinder and the existing ORB fittings coming out of your baystar helm where the baystar tubing hooks up right now. You need to get the length right though when ordering because you can't shorten or lengthen them and they aren't cheap. I mounted the hydraulic pump, network backbone, and course computer under the driver console and the heading sensor/compass inside the in floor rod locker where I had additional space. The AP pump will have additional lines plumbed from your helm into it so that will be a factor in deciding where to mount it. Tons of great information on Seastar's website to read through on adding an AP to their system. If you plan on doing the hose retrofit and an AP yourself, I would recommend doing it all at once. Unhooking fittings and hoses makes a mess, plus you'll only have to bleed it once. When I did mine, I orginally converted the boat from cable steering to Baystar ( should have went straight to a Seastar kit). Then I upgraded the nylon tubing from the Baystar kit to Seastar hoses. Then I added an autopilot. And finally I moved the autopilot to a different boat. Yeah, I like playing in hydraulic oil......... Sent from my SM-G975U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  14. I did it on my Lund. I did however upgrade the rigid plastic baystar hydraulic tubing with the seastar hoses. Easier to work with and actually according to teleflex seastar( who also makes baystar) the better hoses improve steering response even more. Anyway the baystar cylinder is just a bit smaller displacement but should work fine with most hydraulic autopilots. I ran the raymarine evo-100 with it. Worked awesome. Sent from my SM-G975U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
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