Great_Laker

On the water at 4:45am and ran out to 140’. Picked up a small king right out of the gate on a 10 color with rod father mag Warrior. Fished north to 200’ and nothing. Ran back to 70-90’ for browns and landed a brown down 70 on a rigger and mag green alewife and another small king down 65’ with salmon candy warrior. Temp break was around 120’. 60 degrees and up everywhere else. Speeds from 2.2-2.7 at ball. Couldn’t move a rod after 9:30am. Looks like we should have ran out deep but the waves kept us close. Water fleas are back and noticeable after 10-20 minutes of the rod being down. 

On 6/20/2022 at 10:39 AM, swnoel said:

I'm tired of attempting to get any consistent speed with my honda kicker and have decided to get something to control it more accurately. I've decided that the Itroll appears to be what I'm looking for. Could anyone that actually uses one please give me your honest opinion of this unit both good and bad. I'm also curious whether the hunt mode is worth the price. Thanks

I had an itroll on my Yamaha kicker and it was awesome, I loved it. No complaints at all. I also had hunt mode and for me it wasn’t worth it. You have to reprogram it every time conditions change like wind and current speeds pushing the boat. I could never remember how to do it quickly and when I finally did, it never caught me anymore fish than just turning the boat. 

The best chance of survival for a released lake trout seems to be a hookset in non-vitals (which you cant really control when trolling), reeling in slowly to account for barotrauma, and larger sizes seem to survive better. Other than that, mortality has been measured between ~14-40% post-release and it doesn't seem like surface or deep-water releases matter. Lake trout can burp their swim bladder so as long as they are reeled in slowly they will be able to compensate their buoyancy and swim down when released. You can also burp the fish (gently squeeze the center of the fish) to release air from the swim bladder if you pulled the fish up too quickly and that will let the lake trout swim down faster and get back to colder water and avoid getting pecked at by birds. Anecdotally, we catch adult lake trout with gill nets and rod and reel, put acoustic tags in the fish, and release them and have 100% survival years later. Some of our tagged fish are going 8 years now of providing data and are still alive after being caught and surgery performed to insert tags. 

I attached PDFs from two studies on post-release mortality. One is for angling and one is for gillnets set for research purposes.

Here is a section on depth from the Loftus and Taylor paper (25' to 160' depths)

Loftus and Taylor, 1988.pdf Ng et al., 2015.pdf

Check the seam between the inside of your transom and the transom splashwell. Before i repowered and replaced my transom and resealed that seam on my Sea Nymph it leaked like a sieve anytime i used the boat and waves or rain washed into the splashwell.  Even when your boat is tied up any movement of the transom in wind or waves can cause the transom to dip low enough for the splashwell drain holes to take on water and if the seam between the transom and splashwell is not water tight, water will leak into the boat. Seal it with 3M 5200 and you should be good to go, if thats not the issue, back to square one. The transom rotting and pulling away from the splashwell was the cause of my issues by the way, may want to take a look at yours if thats what it turns out to be. Good luck!

Here is a link to a post from my Sea Nymph repower and transom repair which may help explain what i'm talking about. 

Switch to braided downrigger line and you will never hear the line sing again. Scotty brand 250 lb is thick enough to keep flees off and it’s easy to re tie if you ever need to switch out terminal ends.

Picked up the boat today with the new Honda mounted and gave it a couple hours of riding for the 10 hour break in period. Man is this thing quiet! 40 mph winds on Cayuga didn’t play fair but in a short burst the engine pushed the boat faster than my 90 hp two stroke around 38 mph. Can’t wait to start fishing

I rebuilt the transom and repowered my 19.5' boat with a new outboard this winter as well. Since the 1980s outboard companies use the same bolt patterns on their motor mounts so unless you went with a drastically smaller engine or an engine pre 80s, the pattern should be the same. The only difference will be how high or low they mount the engine based on the shaft length. The standard bolt patterns are 12 7/8" spacing for the top two and 9 7/8" for the bottom two. Your new outboard will match that pattern but i would confirm with the marina installing your new outboard so you don't have to do any more work than you already have to. Replacing the transom is a labor intensive process but if you are spending the money on a brand new outboard it may be worth the investment of time and money so you don't have to do it down the line if you see any rotten wood. Also, some folks use pressure treated wood to rebuild transoms and pressure treated eats aluminum causing it to corrode and pit, If that's what's in your transom now, you want it out before it causes any more issues. Good luck with your repower!

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1 hour ago, marinerak87 said:

Interested in the other 2. Where around ithaca you located?

Sent from my SM-G998U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

Trumansburg. I’ll be around Friday and Saturday if you want to swing by 

1 hour ago, bluegiller said:

Are these 47h or 47sh ?

Sent from my moto z4 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

I’m not sure, the labels that identify the exact model are long gone. 

Two reels with lead core are sold. Two with 20 lb mono are still available. 

6 minutes ago, Prof T said:

Looks great. I've run a mid 80's 195 GLS for over 30 years, repowered in 2016, refloored in 2012. Aside from that, a couple steering cables. Pretty bullet proof rig. Safe. Never lost a rivet.

 

But

 

Got an itch I had to scratch. Bought a Crestliner Commander. Old gal will be for sale on here next month.

Congrats on the new rig! When you replaced your floor, what did you use? I replaced mine in 2017 with 1/2" ply coated in epoxy but looking back should have used something closer to 3/4" to get a more stable platform, bit of a sag near the edges of the gunnel in two places.

Warm weather this weekend allowed me to prep, seal, and paint the transom and get it ready to mount the motor. Also installed splash well drains and put together a transom backer plate for the engine out of 1/4” aluminum to help distribute the load. Nothing left to do but repower. Getting close to brown trout season! 

1 hour ago, lyteline said:

We'll take the two with core of still available...TYVM 

Sent you a PM

2 Daiwa Sealine size 47 for sale, older model. $30 each. Two with leadcore are SOLD, the other two have 20 lb big game. Pick up near Ithaca.

Finished off the pre-motor wiring today and the NMEA backbone. Lots of zip ties and crawling on my back 

2 hours ago, Wirenut said:

You did a great job there, lots of hours spent I'm sure. I have a 1964 MFG that needed the transom repaired but I went a diffrent route. Took all the wood out , scraped, cleaned, put new fittings thru but used a pourable transom compound. It was pretty easy,, all prep work really. I am very happy with the results. Is there a reason that you used wood or just the way you decided to do it? 

I bet that turned out great! I considered it but like others mentioned, the transom is not sealed so the poured material would run through the aluminum frame on the inside of the boat. I also considered composite but that was 10x the cost of plywood and the reality is I won’t be keeping this boat forever.  

1 hour ago, Shakemsam said:

Be sure to re-use the inserts for the transom holes or replace with new. Coat them liberally with 5200. Keep their location in mind if you are putting the kicker directly on the transom vs a bracket. If transom, mount a piece of starboard inside the splashwell so the pressure from the kicker mount is spread out. In lew of starboard, I use black poly cutting board that I buy at Walmart. I also use it for transducer plates. Cuts easy and routs nice too and lots cheaper.

Good advice! I bought new drain holes since I had to cut the other brass ones out to get the transom wood out. I sold my Yamaha kicker so no need to plan on that but I did cut a 1/4” piece of aluminum that I used as a backer plate previously to displace weight and I’ll be using that for the new outboard mounting holes. The splash well  drain holes bottom out on the splash well aluminum so drilling the new hole will need to be very precise so water drains correctly 

12 hours ago, Shakemsam said:

Nice Rig! Running a 90 195 Sportfisherman that I picked up a few years ago. I would imagine the transom wasn't through bolted to due the lack of access without removing all the foam. The only through bolts I have access to are the motor bolts. Keep in mind that aluminum and stainless don't mix well, just like aluminum and PT wood. Unfortunately not really any other options though. Having a good painted surface on the aluminum helps. You can also add a plastic washer as a barrier between the hull and any stainless nut, bolt head, or washer. I like your use of the Lowrance for gauges but I would be concerned with the chance of a network failure. I would have a voltmeter at a min and maybe engine temp. Good Luck!

That’s exactly right, getting access to the other bolts requires you to take the splash well apart. Taking it apart was easy but putting it back together with 1/4 close-end rivets was not. I had to buy a pneumatic rivet gun to save my forearms. Never thought about stainless to aluminum galvanization, thanks for pointing that out! The surfaces are painted on all sides and all bolts/washers are covered in 5200 sealant but rubber or plastic washers seem easy enough to add. Hopefully I won’t need to worry about network failures with two lowrances both connected to the NMEA network and 2022 modern engines have warning lights on the key switch and governors which don’t allow you to easily damage the engine, but I agree it’s something to consider. I have a stand alone volt meter as well as both lowrances give you voltage so that should be covered. Putting the splash well drains in this weekend which seems easy to screw up if they are not drilled out correctly. Any tips on that process would be appreciated.

32 minutes ago, whaler1 said:

What engines are you putting in?

Single Honda 75 hp with troll controller 

Getting the center console ready for controls with the new outboard on the way. Had to cover all the old gauge, key, and control holes. Used 1/4” black Starboard which was a really easy material to work with. Decided not to get new gauges and just use the Lowrance units for engine gauges as they connect with NMEA 2000 and display all the information you could need (e.g., rpm, mpg, trim, gas level). Saves quite a bit of money in rigging if you already have a Lowrance. Waterproof Blue Seas switch board was also added to replace original switches. Cleaning up the wiring harness and bus bars coming next.

Its been a great boat so far. Tall gunnels make it feel pretty safe in rollers and only weighing 1,100 lbs makes trailering and solo launching and retrieving easy. The center console is also perfect for trolling solo, can drive into chop and reel in at the same time. Wish the floors were aluminum though, already replaced them once. 

I bought a 1986 Sea Nymph 19.5' center console in 2017 and have been slowly restoring the boat to fit my fishing style in Lake Ontario and the Finger Lakes. A lot of the ideas and restoration tips/tricks have come from others on this site and lots of Youtube videos, so i thought i should post some pictures and descriptions as i go along in the future to help others that may be restoring an old fishing boat with modern gear and rigging. This winter i decided to take the engines off the back of the boat (sell them) and replace the transom which was..... not fun. Previous owners used pressure treated plywood as the transom which caused corrosion and pitting of the aluminum and the only through-bolts between the outside aluminum, wood transom, and inside aluminum frame were the four engine bolts, all other hardware was corroded (non stainless steel) and was only screwed into the wood, not bolted. That caused the outside aluminum to warp as the wood rotted and the main engine and kicker pulled the transom away from the rest of the boat and opened up a space in the splashwell for water to leak into the hull. We needed the bucket of a Kubota tractor to lift the old water logged transom board out of the boat with eye bolts drilled into the wood since it had swollen and wouldn't budge. The inside aluminum skin had so many corrosion pit holes that i had to replace it. Local metal shop cut a new sheet of 1/8" aluminum. The transom was 1 3/4" so used marine plywood and cut 3/4" and two 1/2" pieces, glued and screwed together. Coated the wood in fiber glass epoxy resin and reinstalled in the boat this time with stainless steel bolts. Waiting for warmer weather and then will repaint the aluminum and splashwell and seal the seams with 5200. New outboard coming in March

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