sherman brown

5 hours ago, thumbburn said:

24 years with this girl and never a drip on my shop floor with her…. That’s why it freaked me out when I walked past and saw that

i beleive as the others do that the seal around the shaft is getting worn out. you did use the little washers around the fill screws didn't you? i found out the hard way to always use them.

I have always used 8' or longer ML downrigger rods and never had one that was too stiff for my riggers. a rod you should really check out is the Daiwa GX2 ugly stick med action on these rods are limber enough for riggers. but a light action might be a better option for you but not needed. I just took a quick look on eBay and 1 listing is for 3 light action 9' rods for 95.00 and free shipping.

6 hours ago, tim said:

Should I get a look lead acid battery or should I go the extra money for lithium? Not something I’m going to use every day once in a while never had a trolling motor so I don’t know.

you will be so much better off with lithium. they run much longer and can be discharged much lower than lead/acid batteries. they do cost more but shop around at places like Amazon before you buy.

3 hours ago, thumbburn said:

Thanks hank…. Hoping you would chime in….. I actually heard something funky when I put it in gear that day I last used it…. Funny how more details come out of my brain when I get a cpl answers…. 

have you removed the lower screw and checked to see if any water or milky grease came out? if just lower unit grease comes out close it up and put more grease in to make sure if it's low. I have had outdrives have what looks like the same thing but it turned out to be nothing but exhaust scum and water.

39 minutes ago, Steve.e said:

Is that a 2 or 4 stroke?

I hate to come off as an AH but on the 1st picture, it plainly reads four stroke.

On 5/12/2024 at 1:51 PM, m089221 said:

I purchased a used Honda 9.9hp for my 22ft project boat.  Motor runs great and it came with throttle/shifter controls but the cables to reach the kicker motor on my boat are short.  This is only my second boat that will have throttle/shifter controls all my other boats were tillers.  Is it possible to get longer cables and replace the existing ones or do I have to buy a whole new throttle/shifter control box with the correct lengthen cables.

just go to eBay and search for shift cables for Honda outboard motors. I think the cables are interchangeable like the Mercury cables are. you might even add the length you want to your search. it should give you some options to buy both cables together. I'm using old 115 HP 2 stroke Mercury 1979 cables on my 2000 Mercury 9.9 4 stroke.

14 hours ago, Seneca Slammer said:

Nice 

I don't know what channels to monitor on LO. On Erie, most guys use I think 79 on the west end and 68 on the central basin and east. but I check both of them and use 68 most of the time. back when I salmon fished Lake Michigan I used 68 there. another thing I like doing is putting my radio on scan then if guys switch channels to share info with a friend and not broadcast all over the place.

any time you're on big water I think it's foolish to not have a VHF radio just in case something breaks down and you need a tow or god forbid but if someone gets sick or has a bad injury you need to be able to contact the Coast Guard so they can have an ambulance waiting for you to get back to shore.

I went the extra mile when I upgraded my 20-year-old radio. I bought one with the GPS already on it then registered it through BOATUS. now if I am sinking or have other problems I just push the big red button and they know everything about me and my boat.

I have an EGC-12 W GPS PUCK I will sell you for 12.00 plus shipping. if it turns out bad I will give you a full refund.

I have an SS 19P HIGH FIVE PROP that is in great condition for 250.00 shipped to you.

I have an electric Panther tilt for your kicker motor. these are a great tilt option for motors without the factory tilt. 475.,00 and I cover shipping.

may add other items later.

On 4/30/2024 at 5:14 PM, chinook35 said:

NEVER Use friends and family to pay for anything unless it’s your mom or dad. You have NO way of getting your money back if it’s a scam   The web is infested with scammers   Another trick they use is PM. As soon as they want PM or email it’s adios MF 

 

where were you at telling me this before I was skinned, or scammed? i did learn to not trust anyone but I learned the hard way. i had no idea that more scammers are on FB Marketplace than honest people. it's a gold mine for scammers.

I got scammed badly on 2 fish finders on FB Marketplace. the 1st one didn't have a PP account but found a friend that let him use his but we had to do friends and family. after I paid I never heard from either of them again. the 2nd one didn't have a PP account either. after a few days, he came up with the idea of paying with Zelle through my bank and as soon as he was paid I never heard from him again. So now if it's more than a few bucks I will only pay with PP goods and services.

I would like more info on both birds as well. if you want you can message me with more information. things like are the feathers off, shipping, minimum amount, and cost on both birds, will they be shipped frozen or on ice. when I get meat from Wild Fork they pack it with dry ice and it's still frozen solid when I get it.

i used boat us for years and ended up saving some money. I used almost every service they offered. my outdrive crashed at Geneve Oh so I called the number on my card and that's all I had to do. it did take almost 2 hours for the towboat to reach me. when we got back to the marina the cost was 610.00 but I paid with my signature.

I lost the tire and wheel off my trailer on I-75 just a few miles south of the KY state line. it was me and my younger brother returning home in IN. we didn't know what we were going to do. a cop had come by and said it had to be moved now or he would call their tow service which usually costs double. then I thought about my trailer assist and called boat us again. wasn't long before a flatbed came and got our boat and took it back to their shop. again, all I paid was with my signature.

next, I had a flat on my F350 SD 4 DOOR CREW CAB going through the drive-through at Hardies. again I called Boat Us. They found a service on their list but he had to be paid up front by us. I needed a new tire so he brought me a tire and mounted it and put it back on my truck. they charged Boat Us 375.00 for just the service call plus I paid for the tire and the mounting fee which should have been paid by boat us in their service fee.

2 minutes ago, county61s said:

oyeeeeee-- the flushing is my next thing to do. Of course weather turned here AGAIN,, so will do that asap. Yes there was water spraying out from the muffs. Yes it was on full but it is still just faucet pressure in long hose. With the motor only 2 yrs old I am sure ( ok hoping) its just minor issues to ensure all good.. hoping when in actual water and under some rpm all will be ok... thanks appreciate the knowledge

when you say faucet pressure is your water coming from a faucet or an outside line? faucet pressure is much too low to use on your motor.

2 minutes ago, rolmops said:

Spiderwebs do not make a hot engine. The peehole is just an indicator that you have cooling water going through the system. If at first it does not come out but only after a while and it is real hot, you should check a few more things.

If it is an extra long shaft you should not use the muffs period you must put it in a barrel.

Did you put the hose on full blast or just a trickle because the water was coming out the sides of the muffs?

 Did you put the muffs on the right spot or a bit off to the side? (sometimes when you turn on the water the muffs slide away a bit)

Did you check if any water came out from the outlet from behind the propeller? And was it hot or cool?

My worry is the thermostat. When you just start up the engine , there is no waterflow to the block until the block is hot enough to open the thermostat. Until then there should be cold water coming from the peehole and the through the propeller exhaust outlet. If it only lets the water through when the engine is hot then you have a blockage at or near the thermostat.

If it was my engine , I would check both the thermostat and the impeller pump and housing,and make sure that the hose os on full blast even when the water leaks around the muffs.

One last thing. Does your engine have a place to attach the hose higher up above the impeller? This is often there and it is to flush the engine innards after having been in salt water. If you do, screw the hose in there and give it full blast. If everything is open, you should water coming out of the peehole. just make sure not to run the engine when you this or you'll ruin the impeller/pump.

the water should always be opened all the way. and I would clean the pee line first, then if it's still low volume your motor might not get hot idling but at high RPM you should pay close attention to your heat gauge. but I would never take the chance, I would replace the water pump impeller at the least.

22 minutes ago, county61s said:

Thanks for the info, I guess my main concern is why it too so long to spit, and the temp of the water coming out. I have never started a motor after winter break when it was 50 outside, and was concerned more of the steam and then the temp of water coming out. The week stream I am chalking up to the mufflers and not having any RPM on the motor. Again thanks for the info and time you took to help out another boater.....

the water temp and steam isn't caused by the motor and get hot much sooner than your motor. As long as your head doesn't feel hot then it is all good. if you still have a weak stream something might be blocking the line. I would make sure I got the line clean all the way through it. you can feel it when you are all the way through the line. if the flow doesn't improve after cleaning you might want to think about replacing your water pump.

the reason I know about this is I was having trouble with my Mercruiser kept getting hot after I replaced the impeller when I had run it without turning the water back on while we were working on the motor. it seemed fine but after 3000 RPMs would get hot fast. I went back and made sure the lines hadn't got blocked by my old impeller busting into many pieces. I spent more than a week researching everything including the pee line on outboard motors. i had almost given up on it then I remembered a charter caption that lives close by and said he was also a marine mechanic. I gave him a call and asked if he could work on it. I told him everything about it. then he asked me if I had changed the upper housing and the wear plate on the bottom. he said that sometimes they got distorted after they had been hot. I replaced everything except the lower part. when I took it back out it never got hot. by now I had already bought another boat and sold this one.

17 hours ago, county61s said:

Have a 90 Yamaha v max, pulled it out of storage. Put on muffs and it took about 2 min for any water to come out telltale.   it was steam them not real strong stream but a stream, and it was very hot water. Is that common for first firing it up and with using just mufflers???

sometimes the lines get clogged from bugs to spider webs. on a couple of motors that weren't getting any flow, I used a large piece of weedeater line and ran it up the pee hole until I hit the blockage. I kept moving the line in and out hitting the clog hard until it gave way and I ran the line all the way in and did the back and forth. water was already coming out around the line and when I removed the line the water was dark green until all the crap came out. one motor had set for a couple of years but both were stopped up with green moss.

I have had quite a few motors over my 45 years boating not pee until I opened them up. at first, I used a small wire to unstop the water line. but about 15 years ago I started using the Weedealine.

to answer your question the water should be coming out within the 1st 60 to 90 seconds. but if the pee tube has anything in the tube it may take a little longer or not at all.

to explain it better the thermostat has nothing at all to do with the pee tube. the water doesn't ever enter the inside of the motor. it has its own line running by the motor and next to the exhaust tubes that heat the water up. the water gets hot from the exhaust, not from the motor. the pee tube water is a bypass to let water flow so the operator knows it's pumping water.

taking a short time the water is next to the exhaust tubes which heats it up. if it's slow to start flowing the water will get hot and cause the steam. be sure if it isn't flowing after a couple of minutes to run something up the pee hole all the way up. it doesn't hurt your motor to run it without water for a few minutes as it takes a while for the motor to get hot enough to hurt it. when I clean the line I run the motor so the water pressure helps clean the line as I break up the clog.

if the motor is running and you're worried it is overheating just carefully put your hand against the head to see how hot it is. it shouldn't be near hot enough to burn you.

my tip of the day is to use a set of muffs that has water going to both sides. with any muffs make sure they are covering the water intake on the motor. be sure to turn the water supply as much as it will go. some people think they will blow out the impeller and only turn the water on about halfway. they don't ever think about the pressure from the lake going 40 or 50 MPH. it is so much more pressure than any water supply. if you watch the water coming out the muffs with a warm motor you will actually see the amount of water being much less than it was.

8 hours ago, greenhornet73 said:

Yeah, last night I thought condensation because it was milky but the level wasn’t much higher. Today it poured out when I pulled the dipstick after running it over an hour on the lake. It was running fine but wanted to keep an eye on it.  Definitely smells like gas in there.

if it has fuel in the oil you have a much larger problem. and there is no way it should have enough fluid in it for it to run out when the dipstick is removed.

but before I would do anything with what you say about the oil pouring out when you pull the dipstick and the smell of gas I wouldn't run it again and set up a time to take the motor in to have it checked and repaired. it is something a lot more serious than condensation in your oil.

my guess would be a blown head gasket or a cracked head. but getting it checked by a certified mechanic will give you the answers to the problem. they might know some other way you are getting water or fuel in the oil. but my first guess would be the head gasket or the head. but 1 more option would be a cracked block but I think that is highly unlikely. these are the only ways I know for water or oil to get in your oil.

it sounds a lot like you may have a blown head gasket or a cracked heat. with what you say here I would take a small amount of the oil and place it on the ground or other safe place away from everything that might catch fire. then I would get a long stick or other thing then I would tape a piece of paper on the end and light the paper then hold it to the oil and see if it burns. if it's just fuel and water nothing should happen but if fuel is in it, it should catch on fire in short order.

try googling downrigger dredge weight and see what you get.

and yes a dredge weight is shaped like a fish. but it has small front fins that are set to cause the weight to dive downward which it actually dives and pulls the weight down. I just went and did a Google search for downrigger dredge weight and got several different sites that have them. eBay has good prices on some of them but Walmart isn't bad.

7 hours ago, Pair of Jacks said:

Sherman—sorry for the confusion… you stated in your original post,”I have found the dredge weights to work the best with less blowback than all the others I have tried.”  So I search google for Dredge weights and found this:  https://fishrazr.com/dredge-pulling-kit-in-waterproof-box-with-6lb-fish-weight/

 

If I now understand your post a dredge weight is just a downrigger weight shaped like a fish…correct?

2 hours ago, steelydan said:

No, a dredge weight works like a planer board only it pulls down instead of out to port or starboard. Kinda the same idea as a dipsy diver.

you have it right!! I love these weights. I can't wait until I get to try the 10# ones I bought. 

HAPPY FISHING TO EVERYONE AND THE BEST OF LUCK.

I watched a video of running a Garmin with the transducer showing what was forward of the boat. I thought it was awesome so you would know ahead of this when you were going to be in fish.

I thought very seriously about switching to Garmin for this feature alone. but it was cost prohibitive for me. right now I have all Lowrance HDS units, I have a 12 live and a 9 gen 3, and an 8 gen1 for emergencies.

checking your thermostat would be a great place to start. but any time you run your motor in colder water and colder temps if you don't run it at a higher RPM long enough to dry the condensation it will mix with your oil. the more times you run in colder conditions at idle will make things worse each time it's used.

15 hours ago, Pair of Jacks said:

Sherman—can you clarify how you use dredge weights to reduce blow back…I looked on YouTube and I found a dredge weight but it looks like an over signed Alabama rig you attach to a fish-shaped downrigger weight… I cannot see how this configuration would decrease blowback when it just adds more surface area to the weight.

1st off I have no idea what you're talking about. A downrigger dredge weight is the weight that attaches to your DR cable that takes your lures down. it doesn't attach to your DR weight as it is your DR weight.

just go to Walmart's site and do a search for downrigger weights. they carry several designs of rigger weights with the dredge weight being one of them. the design with the little wings with the downward angle causes them to dive better than other weights of the same weight. which causes less blowback as they aren't just weight but the diving design helps them pull down with a deeper dive curve than other weights.

I really hope this clears up any confusion you have.

when we forgot our 12# pancake weights and found the 8# dredge weight on the boat I thought we would have a lot more blowback than the pancake weights. but when we let them down and set the blowback was much less with the 8# weight over the 12# pancake weights I had been using for years.

I have found the dredge weights to work the best with less blowback than all the others I have tried. I used 12# pancake weights to reduce blowback. One trip in the boat we just bought the weights didn't get loaded. we found a set of 8# dredge weights that we had to use. they worked better with less blowback than my 12# pancake weights had. I bought a set of 10# dredge weights to use but haven't used them yet.

WALLMART is the best option I know of for the lowest price on rigger weights. and they have a pretty good choice of weights. they have the 10# dredge weights in silver for only 34.00 each. they have pink and purple priced at 42.00. but they have several balls with fin weights at much better prices.

I always mount mine where I will get the least turbulence from things sticking down from the bottom. then I mount mine with about 1/4" of the bottom of the transducer sticking down below the bottom of the boat. I also like to tilt the front up slightly to have a smoother water flow over it.