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sherman brown

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Everything posted by sherman brown

  1. I use cannon single axis because they can be set using one hand. at times I start letting my divers out without setting my rod holder where I want it so it's easy to fix this using just one hand. I kept letting the diver out with one hand and using the other hand to set the holder. but if the 1 hand operation doesn't matter to you then by all means get the ratcheting traxstech holders. they are solid holders that have 17 spots to set them in, whereas I believe the cannon only has 5 or 6 spots to set them.
  2. the holders are far enough forward they should clear the handle with some extra room. i have 2 Big Jon electric riggers with Big Jon dual holders mounted on them. i have used the crank several times for small adjustments and the manual crank had plenty of space. and as an option, you may be able to install mounts for your braces far enough ahead to attach your mounts so that you have the whole thing clear. but this is just something you might check out. just take the brace loose at the bottom and move it forward until it could be mounted and SEE IF IT STILL SUPPORTS THE TOP. then if it will work you can add mounts where you can move the braces to the front for fishing then if you wanted you could move them back.
  3. all the old 2-stroke motors were made to run at higher RPMs for optimum performance. and the newer 4 strokes are probably made to run higher for optimum performance but I don't think using a small HP motor for trolling would ever hurt the motor. even a car at idle will have less oil pressure than it does at higher RPMs. but when running at low RPMs it also has so much less strain on the motor and the lower oil pressure is still high enough to oil the motor. the companies that make these lower HP motors have a pretty good notion they will be used as a kicker. and a lot of them are used at idle for many many years. i have an old 2000 model year 9.9 HP Merc for my kicker on my boat so it is already 23 years old and still running sweet and strong. i did have to have the carb rebuilt a couple of years ago. I used an old 79 Merc tower of power inline-six 115 HP for trolling for many years and then while it was still running great the boat was in bad shape. I bought another boat that had a 115 HP Johnson so I sold the old Merc. police cars are idled for so many hours then they will still get 2 or 3 hundred thousand miles on them. i have seen lots of them for sale with well over 200,000 miles on them. and the hours idling couldn't have hurt the motor at all.
  4. those HP four stroke motors will do just what you want. you can manually lower your RPMs by screwing out the idle screw on the card. another option if you don't need to slow down a lot is to drop the pitch on your prop. a 9p prop is supposed to move the boat 9" for every rotation whereas a 7p is only 7" therefore slowing your boat down and running the same RPM. just FYI using a bag for me is much better than using a plate. just make sure you get a trolling bag and not a drift sock. a trolling bag can be used for a drift sock but a drift sock isn't made right to work good trolling. if you do try using a plate get the Easy Troller short plate. if you try a bag try going to amishoutfitters.com and they can help you with the size you need. and so you know using either of these will not hurt a four stroke in the least. running the motor at lower RPMs than factory settings won't hurt it either as long as the motor is running smoothly. I have been using my 5.7 Mercruiser for trolling but it was going a little faster than I wanted and I idled it down to 500 RPMs and that took care of my speed problem. I was going to idle it back up but that was a few years ago and it's still set on 500. I like to troll with the wind for better boat control. and when I do I go way too fast so then I use my bags to slow me down. and I use bags just a little bigger than I need so then I can get very slow and just bump the throttle up a little if I want to run faster, I used a happy troller plate for many years. then I went to the easy troller that I liked better. then I tried using bags and have never looked back.
  5. I admit I was also fooled when buying a Fishfinder off the FB marketplace. the guy didn't have a PP account. we tried to figure out a way to pay him. after a few days, he came up with a friend that said we could use his account but only if we used friends and family. i didn't even think about being scammed. after I paid that was the last time I heard from him or the guy that had an account. PP couldn't help because I paid the money to a friend. but I went to my bank and disputed the charge and was able to get the charge reversed. after the first time, you would have learned something. I found another unit I wanted to buy but he didn't have any way for me to pay him as PP was the only service I had. After I tried getting one he had it and never let me use it. then he came up with using Zelle through my bank. when I was paying I realized it was like giving him the cash. I had second thoughts but I really wanted this FishFinder, so I paid him thinking no way would I get scammed two times in a row. WRONG!!!!!!!!! however, I did get what I wanted and paid with goods and services on PP. but not before another guy tried to scam me. he wanted me to pay friends and family because he was using a business account that froze the money for 30 days. but now I knew better. then he came up with a friend's account and let me pay for goods and services. after I paid I asked when he was going to ship it. he came back with the payment being frozen for some reason and I needed to go to PP and click on the item received. but I knew if I did that he would be gone with my money. so i said he had been paid and the money was in his account so he could ship now. but he said he didn't want to ship it until he had part of the money in his hand. that's when I said if he shipped it by priority mail I would have it in 2 days and could click item received and he could get his money. The money was in his account and i couldn't get it back so the money was his. After a very short time, I went to PP and filed a dispute that he was a scam. I had my money back in less than 2 hours.
  6. it comes down to more people who don't normally get limits. with the extra rod, they have a better chance of getting more fish or even limits that they wouldn't otherwise catch. when they set limits they factor in that most people don't get their limit. after time if more people are getting more fish the limit will have to be reduced to make sure they aren't overharvested. if the population of the fish numbers are stable then they should be left alone. but if the numbers are rising then an extra rod wouldn't hurt anything for a while. but if the numbers are reduced to low then something would have to be done. I remember Lake Erie had so many walleye they didn't have a limit for years. but as more fishermen became aware of the fantastic walleye fishing and started fishing Erie. as the fishermen grew in numbers the amount of fish was reduced to the point they had to put a limit on the fish. the limit has been anywhere from 10 to 4 walleye on Erie just since I started fishing on Erie.
  7. I would have thought about buying it just for a spare. but you're just too far away. I live in east central Indiana. and it is a good looking trailer.
  8. I hope you get everything worked out. but if it gives you enough room for tracks and 3 holders by moving the top forward. all you would need to do is move the top mounts forward and then set your posts as far forward as you can and not affect using the top too much. it is definitely something I would be looking at. but this is only my opinion though. if the mounts you use now won't work you can find many styles on the net.
  9. if you don't have enough room for a backing plate a fender washer would be better than not having anything. and as long as most are bolted on with backing and nuts I believe they would never come loose. and I agree with others that a locking nut would serve you better than a standard nut that might vibrate loose over time. the 1 trip was the only time I bused riggers on my tracks. but I did run 3 diver rods per side with mine screwed on and never had a screw come loose in all the years I used that boat. we bought a used larger boat 2 years ago and I mounted the tracks on it with screws. One thing I do is drill my holes just large enough that the screws are a tight fit but not tight enough they get stuck on the way in. but I have no plans to ever run riggers off my tracks. the cannon riggers that we are using now came with the boat and are mounted to a board going across the rear of the boat so they are left on the boat. on my old boat, I had 2 Big Jon riggers that were mounted on the back cross-section inside the boat. we also used that boat for playing in the water so I used the Big Jon slide mounts so i could just slide them off.
  10. my top leaned a bit down in the front but not enough to cause any problems. all I did was move my back support braces as far forward as I could get away with. That gave me enough extra room for my holders on tracks. on my last top, it used straps instead of the posts. on it I had my back straps going almost straight down to the cleats. but good luck working out the best way to fish with your bimini top in use. Have you considered moving the complete top forward on the boat?
  11. why not just get tracks as long enough that they will fit on your gunnel and mount all your rods to the tracks? I started with 24" tracks to run 3 diver rigs on each side. They worked but were just too close together. I then added another 24" track and that gave me the room I needed to space my rigs apart. then when my oldest son and I bought a larger used boat I added another 24" track. now I run 3 Cannon ratcheting holders per side plus a spare holder and a Traxstech angled holder per side for putting our Ego S2 slider rod holders in and have plenty of spacing plus a little extra room. go as long as you can fit on your gunnels. SK8man uses 17" tracks to run 3 rigs. For me, that would be too close together for the reels to have good clearance for removing the rods with a fish on. I started with 24" tracks which had my line counter reels almost touching each other. when a fish hit I found it troublesome to grab that rod and have the reel not hit another reel. but what works for one doesn't always mean it's going to work for everyone.
  12. I had 2 24" tracks with 1 butted up about 3" away from the ends. then I had 2 rod holders with 2 rods running lite bite slide divers and the rigger at the very back of the track. but tying the riggers to the back cleat for safety gave me peace of mind so I could concentrate on fishing. i only ran them for a week but without anything coming loose. when I installed my tracks using screws to hold them on I was a little anxious about them failing. so I installed 2 of my Cannon ratcheting holders and set them out to the side I then took hold of them and lifted all my 250# body and held on and even bounced up and down to see if the tracks were safe to use. After that test, I never worried about them coming loose using 3 holders with 3 rigs using 3 of the lite bite slide divers per side. the 24" track just wasn't long enough to have enough space between the rods and reels. Instead of buying a longer track, I got 2 more of the 24" and added them on. my oldest son and I bought a larger boat so I bought 2 Cisco 24" tracks and added them on. now i have extra room with mu 3 rigs and an extra holder as a spare and a Traxstech angled fixed holder on each side with an Ego S2 slider dip net on each side.
  13. the only time I did it I had forgotten my riggers at home in Indiana when we went to Geneva Ohio walleye fishing. a great guy on a fishing forum I was on sent me a message after I posted about missing my riggers. he let me borrow 2 Big Jon electric with 3' boons and we were using 12# pancake weights. the only mounts he had that we could use were track mounts. I was worried because I put my track on using stainless screws. when I got them set I took a rope and tied the riggers to the boat so if the track failed we wouldn't lose his riggers. we used them for the week we were up there fishing. the tracks had held up great with nothing coming loose or pulling out. but I do not recommend running riggers with screws used to fasten the tracks on. if you are going to use your riggers in your tracks using some kind of backing is a must. you don't have to put a backing on where you can't get to them. i do recommend using bolts with countersunk screw heads and the size that will work in the tracks. on the bottom use any size backing that you can fit on them. I have mounted riggers to the gunnels on some old boats I owned 35 or 50 years ago. what I used was the large SS Fender Washers. I did this for years and never had one come loose.
  14. I have never lubricated the rollers on the roller trailers I have owned. but that doesn't mean they shouldn't have been. the 1st thing you should do is go to factory websites that make roller trailers and message a few of them asking your question. I have always bought used boats and trailers. if I found any of the rollers were excessively worn I went to etrailer.com and checked on eBay and Amazon to find what I wanted at the best price. in all my searches E-Trailer was where I bought mine. after replacing the ones that were maybe 25 years old and worn I never looked back. if the MFG doesn't have an answer for you then there may not be a good answer.
  15. by you already buying the hydraulic steering this post is a bit late. the only reason I could see it helping with a 90HP motor would be if you are planning to put a kicker motor and an autopilot on the big motor. then when you are trolling you can use the kicker attached to the big motor and use the autopilot without the key for the big motor ever being turned on. now that you have the hydraulic steering you need to troll with a small kicker. they make all types of steering kits that connect the motors together up front. in my opinion, they are much better for outboard to outboard steering over the EZ-steer. having hydraulic steering takes all the pressure off your autopilot and it will last much longer that way.
  16. mine are too long. I bought 24" thinking they would be long enough. They worked but running 3 divers per side they were crowded. But instead of getting longer tracks, I got more 24" and added them on. we got a larger boat that had lots of room so I added the 24" Cisco tracks to what I already had so I had room to mount a spare Cannon rod holder and a Traxstech angled holder for the dip nets.
  17. all of them are over priced in my opinion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  18. FYI if you have to buy new tracks the Cisco tracks are much cheaper and work on items that fit the cannon tracks. when I bought my cannon ratcheting rod holders for walleye fishing I bought cannon tracks. but when I needed more tracks I found the Cisco tracks by searching online and they were less money. I bought the Cisco and never looked back.
  19. I think I have 2 12# pancake weights that I no longer use. but before I go searching I need to know if you are interested. but I just checked on Amazon and if you have a Prime account you can buy these cheaper than I can sell mine. I would have to have 90.00 for the pair shipped to you. but they have pancake weights for 37.00 each plus tax and shipping if you don't have a Prime account. but what I did was switch to the dredge weights which I believe is a much better weight that has less blowback. we bought a used boat and went to Erie and we had forgotten to load our 12# pancake weights. we found 2 8# dredge weights on the boat so we used them. we had less blowback with them than we had with the 12# pancake weights. so I bought 2 new 10# dredge weights but haven't tried them yet. I suggest you check on Amazon for weights before you buy any unless you get a good buy on here.
  20. I can't really give you any advice because it sounds like you already have everything you need, knowledge. All the old 2 stroke motors are pretty much the same and are straightforward. for someone who has the knowledge to rebuild auto engines shouldn't have any problem rebuilding any 2-stroke boat motor. the only thing is to be sure and torque the head bolts as the instructions say they should be torqued. the rest is so simple you should have no problem. all the old 2-stroke motors I have dealt with have roller bearings so no need to check the clearance like an auto motor. they also use reed valves so you don't have to set the valves. now all the rest is simple. and rebuilding your motor will be the same as a new motor. but you may need to adjust the old cards or rebuild them.
  21. on my old 21' Cobia I didn't use a TM. and I had 2 dual-purpose series 27 batteries. I had them hooked up to a Perco switch and I could run battery 1 or 2 or both. 1 was the house battery that was used to power my electronics when the motor wasn't running. then when I started the motor with my other battery I would then use the Perko switch turned to both so it would be charging both of my batteries. but if I was rigging a boat now I would add a battery isolator so I wouldn't end up with a dead cranking battery. plus when the big motor is started it directs the power to the low battery 1st so it gets charged in a hurry. but the battery isolators are all automatic and you never get caught with a dead starting battery. with the system I had I always used the same batteries, the same brand, series, cranking amps, and so on. but I don't know if a series 24 starting battery and a series 31 deep cycle battery can be used with the isolator but I see no reason why not. you have a choice of 100s of them at Amazon from just the isolator to complete kits to install them.
  22. You may be right about the jumper you have. the one I use is an off-brand and it works great in the salvage yard when I connect the red jumper wire to the positive cable and hook the ground to the ground cable or and metal of the car. then I car run anything electrical to see if it works before taking it off. The jumper I have is just a small powerful lithium battery that works and time the jump cables are attached to any 12v item. are you connecting to the cables that connect to your battery? Are you pushing the jump button on the jumper to turn the power on like what has to be done before jumping a car? are you 100% sure the cable you hooked to is battery 1? did you try switching to battery 2 just to see if that was the problem? any time the power button is turned on the cables should be putting out 12v of power which should run any 12v item. I just had to jump my son's car yesterday when his battery was completely dead. Not even the dome light came on. I connected the cables and pushed the power button for 3 seconds until the little power light came on and hit the starter and she cranked over good and started right up.
  23. I will take the stinger spoons. you can message me to work out the details.
  24. just to add to your post. if you decide to go with a 4-blade prop it is recommended to drop 2" in pitch over a 3-blade prop. I highly recommend switching to a 4-blade for better everything, better handling in rough water or in turns, and better lift, the only downside is if you have a 3-blade of the right and the RPMs are right then going to a 4-blade might cost you 1 or 2 MPH at WOT. but in your case going to a 17p 4-blade prop should improve everything. and I will always use a high-five prop on any 8-cylinder Mercruiser that I get. now my son and I went together and bought a 26' Sylvan glass boat that has an elephant ear 16p prop that is on the boat. but if he will let me i still want to just try my 17p high-five prop just to see which one performs the best. and I don't know what motor you are running to get those numbers with a 19p aluminum prop. but he is running the 4.3 6-cylinder motor.
  25. I have used my lithium power pack jump stater to power many cars in salvage yards to check electrical items before they are removed without ever having any problem. are you 100% sure you had the Perko switch set to the correct battery? or were you connecting the leads from the motor to the Perko switch? there is just no reason that the jump pack shouldn't have worked as long as the power was being directed to the trim motor. the packs i have always used had power to the cables as soon as the power was turned on, on the jump pack. if you hook to the hot cable that goes to a battery and hook the ground to any ground then try the 1 battery and if it doesn't work try switching to battery 2. we were up on Erie and the starter was reading cranking slow with my switch on both. I never thought about checking anything out I just had a new starter installed. but when I started the motor it hadn't helped anything. I switched to battery 1 and she cranked like crazy. then I switched to battery 2 and it wouldn't even turn the motor. my point being you should check each side separately and not both batteries at the same time
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