sherman brown

sorry old man i haven't been checking messages.

as long as a person could manually engage the pins they would still be so much better than not having any swivel bases at all. being able to turn them at a 45-degree angle off the corners and then turn them to the inside is priceless when getting gas at the dock. that's like I started using manual riggers back in 77 when I was 26 years old for salmon fishing Lake Michigan. I had used manual riggers until about 12 years ago. I had come into a little extra money from backpay from Social Security disability. so I was looking at used Big Jon electric riggers on eBay when I noticed 2 distributors were having their own little price. they came all the way down to 500.00 for a pair of pro tournament riggers with stops and 4' booms in 12" sections. I bought 2. Then another set came down to 525.00 and I ended up buying them. shipping was free and no tax back then. but my point is I ended up kicking my behind every day for the next year, for now going to Electric Riggers 25 years sooner, LOL, the joke was on me. at that time we were just getting started walleye fishing on the central basin, and cranking 12# weights up by hand many times a day wasn't a welcome feat. i am 72 now and no way could i do it now. I did end up selling 2 of them after I used them a few times for 750.00. 4 riggers with 6 dipsy divers were just too much to keep up with. now I run 2 old cannon riggers that came with the boat my son and I bought, then I switched the dipsies out for the deeper divers. but after seeing the lite bite slide divers I switched again for them. and for walleye fishing and I knew I couldn't replace them I wouldn't take 1,000.00 each for what I have. Just loosen the lure tension as loose as it will go and no matter how tight the rod tension is it will still trip on small white perch and most times a jumbo yellow perch will trip them. no dragging small fish around like with the dipsy or deeper diver. in rough water, you need the rod tension a little tight or you run yourself ragged on false releases. no worries with the lite bite divers. and I don't even use the slide I just use it with a 6' or 7' fluro leader.

I don't really need them right now but if you take PayPal I want them for spares. those are called dredge weights. would you please ship them priority mail at the USPS? 2 years ago I had no choice but to use 2 8# weights because we left my 12# pancake weights at home and these were on the boat we just bought. I fell in love with the 8# as they worked better than the 12# pancake weights did, with less blowback. I already bought a set of the 10# weights but haven't used them yet. these will give me a great set of spare weights if I ever need them.

MAN, if had had lived close enough to pick them up I would have taken them just for the swivel bases. so if I couldn't get them to work I would have still had a set of swivel bases for my old cannon riggers.

I had no idea they ever made rings for the Dream Weaver Divers, which I believe started out as the cannon deeper divers, but I'm not sure about the brand., I always liked the deeper divers for walleye fishing 65' deep or less. that way with the deeper divers you didn't need to worry about rings like on the dipsey where the rings had a bad habit of coming off. someone is going to get a great deal on these divers, as they cost a pretty penny for new.

I can send you a postal money order plus pay for shipping. or I can send money through Walmart and all you have to do is go to any local Walmart and pick up cash. once I send it you can pick it up in about 5 minutes after it's sent. if this will work send me a PM.

if he agrees to ship I am second in line to buy these. I have cannons now but still need 4 more.

I never said it wasn't a fantastic deal! but who has 1000.00 at 1 time to spend on gear that needs all that gear? with the gear I already have I wouldn't ever use 1/3 of it. but someone just starting out and young could use most of it over the next few years. but just how many young guys just getting started have that much money for tackle? if anyone can spare 1000.00 this would be a great investment that will save them thousands in the future. I had no intention of starting a firestorm by making a suggestion.

back years ago I was using an old 16' deep v boat on Erie for some years. money was tight back then so I had to make do. I am from Tn and moved to In, in 1965, and still have family in Tn. On my travels, I kept seeing this old boat sitting under a tree out in the middle of a field. on one trip I stopped and asked just what they had to have for it as everything in it was rotten. the tires on the trailer was flat and rotted. I got a price of what the boat was worth when it had been parked many years ago. I told her the condition of the boat and offered 200.00 for it. she said some guy she knew had told her what to ask for it when it was parked. then she said she would ask him if 200.00 was enough and she would call me. I was going to be in Tn for a week and thought she might call me. then we went back home giving up on getting the boat. a couple of days later she called and the guy told her if she could still get 200.00 for it she should take it right away. we got the old boat home and all I wanted was a larger boat for fishing the big water. the white paint was pretty much gone and was just the aluminum hull. i took it over to show it to a friend who owned a body shop. he said if I would have it sandblasted he would paint it for the cost of the paint. my X-brother n law owned a sandblasting shop and my younger brother was his sandblaster. he said to bring it is Saturday and he would blast it for free. I got a beautiful blue metallic paint that made the boat look new. I knew another guy that had boat parts cheap after he bought out a marina's parts stock. so I got many new parts including a universal steering cable and a part that hooked on the transom to hold the cable so only the inside cable moved. it had had a built-up sun deck in the bow with a walk-through windshield but it was totally rotted out. the floor was in bad shape but where there weren't holes it was still solid. I tore the rest of the bow out then just put another sheet of plywood over the floor in the back. i cut plywood to fit the bow level with the back floor. then I used about 15 cans of spray foam insulation and filled the bottom on the back with all of it except just enough to fill the bow high enough to be level with the floor in the back. then I took the cut plywood and placed it on top of the styrofoam in the bow and let everything set up. now I had a heavy aluminum 18' boat that looked new except it didn't have any seats. but at that time there was an RV surplus close to me that had boat lounge seats for only 150.00 a set. that really topped the boat off. I already had a great 80 HP mariner motor that i put on it. but when loaded for Erie it really struggled getting on plane. but later I passed a prop shop going out of business. the only prop he had that fit my motor was a 15p aluminum prop that I bought for a spare. back then I knew absolutely nothing about pitch. a few trips to Erie later I just tried the 15p prop and to my amazement, it was like a whole new boat. that boat jumped on plane and ran strong. I had thought the motor didn't have enough power, but now it was great on that boat., we used that bigger heavy aluminum Cherokee boat for many many years. with it, we could fish if any boats went out except maybe the large charters and a few boats as big. I had the same as a new boat that I only had about 650.00 total except for the motor that was almost a new motor that I had borrowed 1900.00 so I could buy it for my other boat after it blew the old motor. I have to say I'm very sorry for the book and hijacking your thread. and I had no intentions of writing a book when I started. but I do have copyrights to this post. I only bought a larger 20' Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 hp when we moved to the central basin. i have always had a small regret about selling that boat because it would have made an awesome Central Basin boat. the nice thing about it was the heavy gauge aluminum that they used on that boat.

I won't even try to tell you how to post this but may I make a suggestion? this would be an awesome buy, but not many guys needing tackle usually don't have nearly 1000.00 to spend at 1 time for tackle. it may take a very long time if ever for someone with 1000.00 for tackle. you might do so much better selling your tackle if you broke it up into smaller lots. i might even buy a spoon lot if it had lots of purples for walleye. like I said this is just a suggestion. I do understand selling the whole lot would be much better for you, but the only time I even came close to 1000.00 was my fish finder which I bought a used HDS 9 GEN3 with a 3D structure scan, transducer, and all cables used very lightly for 850.00 shipped. and when I bought 2 Big Jon pro tournament riggers new off eBay for 525.00 each shipped. and when I upgraded 6 of my old sealine SG reels with new coldwater 203 reels that I did overtime for 80.00 to 90.00 each. the rest of what I have was bought for less than 300.00 at the most.

if a guy has a good motor to put on it this would be an awesome big water boat. plus it's small enough for playing in the water. it's a light boat and should trailer very easily and be easy on gas on the water. a 22' boat is a good size boat for smaller crews. if this was 30 years ago I couldn't pass on this deal. i seen it for sale on FACEBOOK marketplace

if you will just google it you will learn the pee hole is just a bypass line that doesn't have anything to do with the cooling it's just to show the water pump is pumping water. if the stream is low the first thing is to make sure the line isn't stopped up. if it's still a small weak stream then the next option is the impeller is probably not pumping water like it should. most motors start peeing almost as soon as the motor starts. at idle it should still be a healthy steady stream but when the motor is revved up the stream should get very strong and go out farther from the motor. all the water the pump, pumps doesn't flow into the motor as the thermostats regulate the amount of water it needs to get the motor up to temperature and then keeps it at that temperature. if they let all the fresh cool water in the motor would never get up to temperature. the back pressure is why more water flows out the pee hole. back when I was a young man and racing cars we just removed the thermostat so more cool water was flowing through the motor. it never even got up to operating temperature even when it was on the track. there was nothing to slow the flow to the motor and let it get up to temperature. the thermostat serves the same purpose in an outboard motor. the water coming out of the pee hole never enters the inside of the motor but gets hot fast by the exhaust.

I don't know who or what price you guys settled on but if everything like the motor is still in great shape they just made the purchase of the year. any 2008 fishing boat is worth a little more than your boat was priced at the end. I kind'a hope it was someone young that bought it as they will get many, many years of pleasure fishing with this boat at what I believe to be a great price. just tackle and, riggers, electronics, baits, and extras would have cost a few thousand if they were bought separately. congrats to you on the sale and another congrats to the buyer on a fantastic purchase.

I have to disagree with you about the thermostat opening before the water comes out of the pee hole. the motor has to reach operating temperatures of about 150 degrees before the thermostat opens and that takes much longer than it takes for water to come out of the pee hole. the pee line is there just to let you know water is being pumped. on many outboard motors, the water starts almost as soon as the motor starts up. I haven't ever tested it but I believe if the motor was cranked over for a minute or a little longer water would start coming out. why don't a lot of you guys that believe the water out the pee hole is dependent on the thermostat opening just Google the route of the pee hole on outboard motors and see what you get? the lines run against the exhaust plus I believe it even flows with the exhaust heating the water much faster than the motor heats up enough to open the thermostats. I don't want you to feel like I'm attaching you because all this is from what I've read and is totally my opinion and that's all. in your case, you are jinxed. it is very rare anything large enough to stop up the thermostats would ever get past the screen on the water pick-up or be deep enough to get in water pick-up on the lower unit. but I will never say anything can't happen. but even at idle the pump is pumping more than enough water to keep the motor cool if the impeller and upper housing are good. if it overheats even at idle something else has to be wrong. the worst I was ever fooled was after smoking my impeller I replaced it. at idle or slow speed it cooled just fine. but if I went over 3/4 throttle i could watch the heat hand rise. I took it back down and made sure a piece of the old impeller hadn't stopped up a water line I cleaned them from the back to the motor. put it back together with another new impeller, and it still overheated at higher RPM. I was asked by a friend who runs a charter and worked on boats in his spare time if I had changed the housing after telling him I smoked the old impeller while working on changing the carb from a 2-barrel to a 4-barrel with an adaptor plate and forgot to turn the water back on we started it up and revved the motor a few times before someone noticed we had no water.

we have a rusty old piece of wire reserved just for cleaning your pee hole, LOL.

I had that problem with a Mercruiser. I smoked the impeller and replaced it. at slow speed, it did great but hammer down and just watch the heat hand rise, I removed lines I removed the outdrive so I could clean the through hull line but nothing I did helped. I had a friend that chartered on Erie and was a part-time mechanic. I called him up and gave him the symptoms and the 1stthing he asked was had I changed the upper housing. I tore it back down and put the kit with the upper housing bottom wear plate and a new impeller in and took it for a test run and all was well. another thing that can cause one to overheat is something so simple as a blown head gasket.

very happy you got it all figured out. so let me rephrase this. in most cases, the motor won't overheat if the water pump is working properly. if it does you have something else wrong that's causing your problem. the 1st thing to check and replace is the poppet.