sherman brown

GOOD DEAL!!! the simplest things can cause major problems and bad headaches.

some states don't require anything at all or just the old registration. TN doesn't have to have any plates, titles, or registration at all. I bought a trailer in Wi and needed to title it in In and was told i had to get a title from the seller. they got the book and it said all trailers in Wi had to be titled. and they wouldn't give me a title or plates. then I kept arguing it didn't need titled in Wi. then a new girl at the BMV was trying to help me so we were looking at the book and about a paragraph further it said trailers that weighed less than so much were exempt. check the state where the trailer is the check with the BMV in both states to find out what is required.

I think it might be the kill switch for shifting into gear is out of adjustment. try bypassing it and see if it starts. I had trouble with mine because the shift cable had stretched and I had to have a new shift cable installed. took it to a marina and they adjusted the cable and after it started about 3 times it quit starting again. another thing that it could be is the shift box start switch may be bad or the shifter isn't aligning up right. hold the key to start and move the shift handle a bit forward and backward and see if your starter kicks in.

another thing you might try is going to amazon and search for a plastic drill bit. then find the size bit you plan to use. are you able to get to the back so you can use washers and nuts? or are you planning to use stainless screws? if you are going to use screws you want the bit to be smaller, so the screws fit snug but not tight enough to cause them to lock up and twist off in the hole. i have my tracks mounted with ss screws. i use 3 Connon retching rod holders per side plus another net holder on each side for our net. and have not had any of the screws get loose. one trip i left my 2 downriggers at home and a great friend let me use his cannon electric riggers with track mounts that i used on my tracks for a week with nothing coming loose. bottom line is if you use screws, they don't need to be super tight. but then again you don't want them so loose that they don't hold the mount solid. i never worried about drilling holes in my older boat as they will be covered even after the boat is sold or becomes a broken down boat.

i always just use a standard high speed bit but i drill on the slow side unless it gets really hard. but for what youare wanting to drill it should be pretty easy.

when i went to my 17p high five it didn't seem to matter at all if i was loaded with 5 of us plus our gear and our food cooler filled full of food soda and ice and our fish cooler with 2 bags of ice. it still jumped on plane and ran faster on Erie than we were able to run with rough water. good luck with the 4 blade it should serve you very well. please do report back on running a load.

i checked out the site and i will be buying a few to try for walleye but i want to get a few custom spoons made up.

you might try the Luhr Jenson web site. if they don't have what you want try buying old ones for parts on the fishing forums. they are made by Luhr Jenson so that is your best chance of finding parts. i tried to find Luhr Jenson website but didn't find them. i just don't know if you will ever find new parts. i would just start a wanted thread for dipsy divers wanted for parts.

traxstech makes the best one with a larger pulley on the end. check out at traxstech.com and search for pulley retriever. thes are more money but well worth every cent.

a lot of newer props have black plugs up front near the leading edge. these plugs can be removed or replaced with smaller plugs. this interrupts the flow of water to llet the prop turn faster on takeoff. if you look at the prop if it has the plugs, you can't miss them. are you sure the hub wasn't bad and slipping? but anyway i believe the 21p is way too high. but the 18p should have improver your hole shot and raised your RPMs about 500 or 600. i have been a little more up on props ever since i started needing to know about pitch. i started with an old 14' boat and 15 hp motor. my bil and his friend had an old house boat with a 50 hp Johnson on it. they had a falling out because the friend didn't want to help with the upkeep so they parted it out and i bought the 50 hp and put on my boat. it took off at almost full speed. but after blowing the reed valves twice i found out they had an 11p power prop on it on the hb. so on my boat without a tach it was over revving a lot and i didn't have a clue. i got rid of the motor. later when i had an 80 hp mariner with a 19p 3 blade that was great on my 16' runabout. but then i went to an old heavy aluminum 18' Cherokee and loaded for Erie it took it forever to get on plane,. then i had a chance to buy an aluminum 15p prop for half price. it was the only prop he had left to fit my motor. i went ahead and bought it for a spare. a few trips later with the 19p i wanted to just try the 15p to make sure it worked for me. when i hit the throttle the boat jumped on plane and was running great. but it was over revving so i backed off on the throttle. but i learned so much about pitch. i thought about getting a 17p thinking it was just what i needed. but i liked the way the 15p was doing so i left it on and just backed off a little on top end. but i still recommend going to a 17p 4 blade of your choice. a 4 blade is just a better all around prop than a 3 blade in my opinion. and don't feel alone in not knowing about the plugs they just started a few years ago. but you can google what are the vent holes in marine props and learn more. i was as dumb as they come about prop pitch when i started boating.

going down only 2" in pitch should not gain a 1000 RPMs. if your motor is already doing 5000 RPMs you don't want to drop pitch any more unless that 5000 is while your taking off. what is your RPKs after you get leveled off? a 19p prop is usually a catch all that dealers use so they still work but won't over tach. the 21 sounds liuke someone was dreaming of getting more speed. but when over pitched it hurts everything. if the 5000 RPMs you mention is when you are taking off check to see if the prop has holes back all the way around it. or if it has plugs in the holes. these control the spin of the prop letting it spin faster if the plugs are removed and slower when the plugs are installed. when you are planed of your RPMs shout not exceed mercruiser recommended RPMs for that motor. and just guessing im thinking about 4800 max when leveled off. but knowing about those plugs or holes will tell me everything. algae and barnacles on the bottom can make a difference but i don't believe that was your only problem. and only if you leave your boat in the water will the build up get real bad. what was your speed and RPMs with the 21p before the problem started? my best advice without knowing more i would switch to a 17p 4 blade like a rev 4, this will greatly improve your hole shot and better handling in turns and rough water. dropping to a 17p will keep your RPMs close to right but you may lose 1 or 2 MPH on top end if you had a 3 blade that was what you needed. but i would guess going to the 4 blade 17p it will give you much better lift and should give you a few more MPH. if the 18p prop has the plugs removed it lets water escape through the holes and makes it easier to turn and raises the RPMs which should give you a little better hole shot but maybe not help much when leveled off. please let us know about the holes and if they are plugged? using smaller plugs will also raise your RPMs on take off so just having plugs in them may not be the ones it needs to lower the RPMs on takeoff. if it was my boat i would just switch to a revolution 4 blade 17p and be done with it. but there are many other good 4 blade props but i recommend the rev 4 in 17p. a 4 blade is harder to turn causing lower RPMs hence dropping to a 17p will cure that.

i have 5 of the older Daiwa sealine sga17lca reels that are working good now and have 2 extra that the counters stopped working that go with them. i will take 325.00 for all of them including shipping. i will also give you a 30 day warranty on the 5 working reels. if any of them quits working in the first 30 days i will pay return shipping and give you a 60.00 refund. i just went a different direction. i used these for walleye on Erie's central basin and caught nice walleye and a nice steelhead here and there. just message me if you are interested in them. they have just been stored in my pole barn for a couple of years. i haven't tried to sell them yet.

i wouldn't go any less than 100 as you need space for ice and fish. i have had days when our 100 was full to the brim. now i only fiush walleye on Erie and still use the 100 with the door in the lid. but i think it also comes in a 1500. if you have room or planning to mount it on the back i would go with a 150.

I have 2 Penn 345 gti reels without counters in very good condition for 300.00 shipped included. these are great level wind reels. I used them for grouper fishing around bridge abutments. or I have a couple of smaller 330 gti reels for 225.00 shipped. if you're interested you can pm me. these were also used for live bait fishing around bridge abutments.

you don't have to have tracks because these have the threaded holes for the thumb screws than you use to tighten them down in the tracks. you can remove these screws and go to the next size smaller screws and bolt them from the top. or you can come through the bottem with the same size bolts and use the threaded base as your nuts as they are already threaded.

i bought 2 of the traxstech holders used off eBay that is like new but much cheaper for my nets.

I don't think this offer can be beat. practically just be there to help get things ready fish for the day for a few dollars in gas then do what needs done when you come in and go home with no worries. anyone wanting to fish the big pond and learn plus catching fish at the same time.

i switched to the traxstech retriever years ago and never looked back. it uses a roller wheel with a little extra room. i still had some trouble getting my auto stop beads to pass through it but couldn't find anything that worked as smooth as these.