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About vetting

  • Birthday 04/22/1982

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    Milwaukee, WI
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    Fish Licker

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  1. I tested them as best as I could (clickers/release arm/drag) by hand. Listed are the conditions of each and photos. $180 plus shipping for the lot - total of 14 reels. #1 Penn Peerless No 9 Tested 100% functional #2 Penn Peerless No 9 Tested 100% functional #3 Penn Peerless No 9 Seems a little rough - needs a regrease #8 Penn Peer No 209 Needs a clicker rebuild #9 Penn Peer No 209 Needs a clicker rebuild #10 Penn Peer No 209 Cracked sides - for parts or repair #11 Penn Peer No 309 Tested 100% functional - engagement arm seems to be reversed #12 Penn 209 Black Casing Tested 100% functional - handle mechanism has some play #13 Penn 209 Black Casing Needs a clicker rebuild #14 Penn 209 Black Casing Tested 100% functional #15 Penn 210 Tested 100% functional #19 Shakespeare T15LCL Line Counter non-functional #22 Okuma Magda Pro 30DX Tested 100% functional - sun fading #23 Okuma Magda Pro 45DX Locked up - for parts or repair
  2. I used to run the on the rigger holder and then would have to move them to dipsy holders on the side whenever we had a fish on - thats with a 25ft boat. This year, I'm adding another 6" piece of track right behind the rigger so I can just fold them down with a collapsible rod holder.
  3. Just snagged the RV-100 for $280. So total of $1179 + tax.
  4. I should be able to snag a RV-100 for around $300 to $325 - so it will be around $1200 for a complete unit and will include lighthouse charts that would normally be another $150.
  5. Anything without charts and ducer starts at around $1600. I got the display for 899 out the door. So for some reason it was more economical to buy them separate.
  6. Well I pulled the trigger on RAYMARINE–Axiom 9 RV Multifunction Display with North America LightHouse Charts. Got the unit for $899 with my West discount. Now just shopping for the transom mount ducer. So I'll be running an Raymarine A77 to run autopilot/chartplotter and through hull traditional sonar. Then use the Axiom with the RV-100 transom mount for 3d and high def chirp.
  7. What about going with a: LOWRANCE–Outboard Pilot Cable Steering Pack (should work on an I/O) - $1450 Just have to figure out if the steering cable would be correct and the Lowrance Elite - TI2 has the autopilot controls.
  8. How necessary is it to have a chart plotter that is compatible with the actual autopilot? I know with the raymarine components, I think it uses the chart plotter data to help with course corrections.
  9. I run a Raymarine EV-200 with their X5-R behind the steering wheel. I've had it for 5 years or so and love it and would have my buddy get the same unit, but its no longer made. He has a 23ft glass I/O boat with cable steering and trolls with his main. For a chart plotter, he has a Lowrance Ti2. Since it cable steer and he doesnt want to switch over to hydraulic, what are the best current options for autopilot? I started looking but now I'm more confused on the newer options then when I first started.
  10. I've heard side imaging isnt that useful for salmon fishing, but if you combine high chirp and the 3d stuff you can mark potential starting points to setup. Plus it would just be nice to know what the heck is going on when you mark fish on a traditional sonar. Right now I have an A series MFD running a standard non chirp thru-hull ducer. I'd keep that one for traditional sonar and to network with my raymaine autopilot. Then I'd get Element or Axiom and run it with the RV-100 transom mount ducer for all of the fancy sonar. @Yankee Troller have any input?
  11. Yeah its been forever. I've been slacking with posting here and despite having a slip on Lake Michigan, I only took maybe 10 trips a year besides our big 10 day tournament. Had some family health stuff going on with my parents so just didnt have the time to fish. Then I lost my first mate (my fish barking dog) so just havent been as into it as before. This year I'm going to get back into it and hit it hard no matter what the dock gas prices are.
  12. Anyone else start running realvision 3d since I originally posted?
  13. Think I found the problem. Since its a remote start/shift kicker, there wasn't enough slack in all of the cables going to the kicker from the transom. As a result, when the motor steers to one side, it was binding on the cables and causing the bar to keep on extending as the main motor pulled on it. Then it just couldnt recover when it attempted to steer back the other way. Might have to pop another hole in the back of the transom so that the cables come straight out into the kicker.
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