vetting

@Yankee Troller Yeah thats what I figured....ugh now I have more decisions. So there will be overlap in frequency between the B60 and B175HW. When you set the A77 to 50khz is it still transmitting 200khz on the ducer?

@Yankee Troller I actually already have a B60-20tilt hooked up to my Raymarine A77 on my own boat. I can actually mark fish with this but not at speed. It also constantly has this issue where you go over a baitball in 150ft of water that is 30ft down and then it thinks you are in 30ft of water until you do a full reset. I've heard other people say the same thing but that probably a Raymarine issue and not the ducer. I also have an axiom 9" with Realvision 3D transmount transducer. I've never been a fan of this setup and thinking on getting rid of it. Maybe I just have it setup wrong? I can hardly get it to mark anything and returns that show up great on the A77 at trolling speed hardly show on the Axiom. I was going to install a BoatEye360 camera so I was thinking on adding a Garmin to my boat to so I can use it as the camera screen when we are coming back late at night. So I originally started the research looking for gear to upgrade my buddies boat, but I'm thinking I'm going to do the same upgrade.

@Yankee Troller Thru hull. Been getting a lot of recommendations for B175HW paired with one of the following Garmin units. For a 7" the 743xsv. For a 9" the 943xsv. For a 12" the 1243xsv. Gets pretty spendy pretty fast though.

Helping a buddy replace a decades old chart plotter/sonar and transducer. What are some good transducer and plotter setups for being able to mark bait/salmon while cruising at 15 to 25 mph for Great Lakes fishing?

I just heard back from EZ-Steer support. They now have a universal mount that is completely different from the original mount that I have. It also has a much taller extension on it so maybe dragging debris in the water may not be a concern if I mount it on the cavitation plate on the main. So the current plan is to verify that the new universal mount will work on my outdrive and would likely have to get a shorter bar (sucks that I just bought a new one last year - unsure if you can cut them down) Then also add a SeaStar cylinder on the kicker (before launching in May) so that in the event that the new universal mount doesnt work, then I dont have to pull the boat to install the rest of the system.

Trying to help a buddy who has a stripped oil fill/overflow hole on his Volvo Penta outdrive. With the high cost of a Volvo Penta outdrive failure, we would prefer to do this the most proper way possible. Is the correct way to remove the housing and take it in to get a proper helicoil or time-sert? Drill and tap and find a larger plug? If removing that housing, what does it all entail and is there any realignment procedures? Thank you in advance for your help.

@rolmops of it were your choice knowing the fact that I've tried a different EZ bar configuration every year for the last 7 years and always eventually had issues - is my best alternate to just do the 2nd cylinder and liquid tie bar?

@rolmops Yeah I was kinda leaning towards this option. Not sure what SeaStar ram would fit the yahama 9.9 though. Then I would also need to run extra hoses and a liquid tie bar.

@rolmops so are you also talking about moving the angle on the bracket on the kicker closer to the main?

Not sure why my original photos didnt post - but here is the existing setup.

Does it matter if its up or down?