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Everything posted by vetting

  1. Think I found the problem. Since its a remote start/shift kicker, there wasn't enough slack in all of the cables going to the kicker from the transom. As a result, when the motor steers to one side, it was binding on the cables and causing the bar to keep on extending as the main motor pulled on it. Then it just couldnt recover when it attempted to steer back the other way. Might have to pop another hole in the back of the transom so that the cables come straight out into the kicker.
  2. I have an EZ-Steer bar on a Mercruiser alpha one with a yahama T9.9 as the kicker. The kicker is on a fixed bracket and its set back further than the main outdrive. Over the last 2 years, its been getting stuck in the down position when first lowering the kicker and doesnt seem to always steer correctly - like its skipping the slots. Any suggestions? Should I change the angle of the bracket on the kicker? Should I tighten the set screws?
  3. Put the boat in gear - the prop should lock in one direction. Then in reverse - it should lock in the other direction.
  4. Just make sure you check the driveshaft before you take it out of the water. You should be able to see it spin if its not the engine coupler.
  5. I just went through this. Start motor and see if the drive shaft is spinning on the back of the engine. If its not, then its the engine coupler. If it is spinning, then: Shift in and out of gear. If you dont hear the normal clunk on the shift then its a completely spun prop (it should still catch a bit which would allow you to hear the clunk but sometimes it gets completely spun) or the vertical shaft or gears stripped in your outdrive. To further diagnose, take the boat out of the water. Remove the outdrive. Manually put the drive in gear. See if you get the prop to lock both ways. If it locks then take a long screwdriver and spin the yoke on the front of the drive. If it just spins and doesnt lock or spin the prop, then you have yourself a junk outdrive and you will have plenty of silver flakes in gear oil (this is what mine did).
  6. 50lb pound spro barrel swivel and a bit of shrink tubing with the smallest crimps that you can find that will fit the line doubled over. I use Okuma leadcore rods. The last thing you have to take into consideration is the level wind on the reel itself. Its a tight squeeze on older reels but fits right through with ease on the newer Daiwa Sealines and Seagates.
  7. Terminations are easy with steel - just use small crimps. My vote is for steel unless you fish with people that have multiple years of experience with copper.
  8. Just finished rebuilding 4 of them - all 4 (2 sea lines and 2 seagates) it was excessive play in the level wind arm at the top that was the problem.
  9. Took 2 trips over the weekend and now the 2 Seagates that I have have to have the level wind arm replaced. Granted these ones are about 5 years old. Really wish they arms were like the old style Daiwas where the entire arm was metal - at least they should have a metal bushing. Blazing back and forth on a screamer is just not good for the plastic on metal contact on the arm, especially in the 6 to 1 ratio.
  10. Yeah I dont know why the level wind arms are such a problem on mine. Maybe I just got a batch that was outta spec. If the arm has any wobble in it, it just going to wear over time since the level wind arm is at a slight angle as it goes back and forth. Over time it elongates the hole and eventually it will bind due to the angle its sitting at.
  11. For leadcore and weighted steel, I have around 14 daiwa sealine SLW50H/SLW60H - these are the 6 to 1 high speed reels. On my first trip out this year, I had another one break. This one wouldnt free spool and was hitching when reeling in. I have another 6 reels that randomly lock up which I think is due to the level wind guide arm wearing out and sticking. I ordered 8 new level wind arms directly from Daiwa and they said they said it might be a few weeks before they even ship them, but of course they charged me right away for the parts. All of these reels are only 2 to 3 years old and pretty much 80% of them are going to need a rebuild this year. I can do the level wind arms myself, but the rest I will need to send out. Tournament time is coming up and I cant be waiting on parts or wait for a month turnaround on sending them out for repair. So it looks like Im going to have to buy some replacements. Any suggestions in the $100 to $150 range for high speed levelwind?
  12. One with an electric motor on it
  13. Im pretty sure cured fresh water salmon arent safe to eat. Same thing with cold smoking fresh water salmon.
  14. Its a DIY - we can walk you through it with more pictures. You are going to pay through the nose if you take it somewhere. For aluminium, you can probably go with a rectangular access hole and then just patch it with a new piece of metal, a little bit of 3m 4200, and some machine screws.
  15. Cut an access hole and put a plate over it or one of those round marine access covers. You need to do a plate or at least the largest fender washers you can use. You have no idea how much stress is on rod holders when you run dipseys or snag something with a rigger. I know a guy who ran just a 3 rod horizontal holder with boards and one dipsey mounted to a track with just lag screws. First big 20lb king ripped the whole darn thing into the lake along with the holder and 3 rods.
  16. I bought some heavy duty zip bags that are slightly larger than a flasher - got them from a shipping supply seller on eBay. I then put them in a rectangular clear box. I got sick of wrapping the fly leader around the flasher and having them kink the leader when storing in a flasher box. Plus I can store more in less space this way.
  17. I currently run a Raymarine Sport/Wheel Pilot - the newer EV series. Boat is 26ft fiberglass with Cable steering with a Power Assist, Mercruiser 5.7L, and Power Assist. Right now I run a Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust kicker with a ez steer bar. Since I dont leave the main engine running while using the kicker, I lose the power assist. Its probably a little rough on the Sport Pilot but its held up 4 years so far cranking back and forth on the actual steering wheel. I know one day its going to eventually wear out and I dont think they service the Sport Pilots. So Im thinking about starting to gather the parts needed to convert to hydraulic steering. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get started with parts lists/info?
  18. I have 15 or so of Daiwa Sealine SLW50H reels that I used for Weighted Steel and Leadcore. I take about 45 trips a summer and more than half of the reels now have issues with the level wind getting stuck. The actual level wind guide get stuck which jams up the reel. Last year I busted off multiple 20lb+ fish with the drag peeling out only to have the level wind guide get stuck and then bust the line. The reels are about 3 years old, so the average reel (every reel doesnt get used every trip) has around 80 trips on it. Since the level wind guide is only plastic, eventually it wears out the upper hole that rides on the metal rod and then it gets enough play that it jams on an angle while fighting a screamer. Is there any alternative to just replacing it with more plastic parts every few years?
  19. If I pulled the trigger, I think I would go with the hull mount. Then you have the choice to make to install the 1 ducer or the double.
  20. Here is my before an after wrap. Used 3m 1080 premium. Was $450 in materials and $400 labor.
  21. Anyone try the newer 3d sonars like Raymarine RealVision? Looking to maybe add a new toy to the boat this year, so was thinking about adding additional sonar.
  22. I just did a 2 foot stripe down the side on mine to cover up old grey gelcoat. Looks awesome 4 years later with just a few dings. Its not a DIY job through by any means. Wrapping the entire thing above or below the rubrail is even further from DIY.
  23. Currently have 20 lbs of fillets in the fridge submerged in brine. Going to be my first smoking of fish in years, so hopefully Im not to rusty. I picked up a electric Masterbuilt smoker, so I can set the temp to whatever I want. I see that time/temps are all over the place for recommendations. For smoke I'm using a Amaze'n smoke pellet maze, so I can run whatever temp I want and dont have to use the smoker to actually produce the smoke. I was thinking doing a 4 hour smoke. Hour at 145 2 hours at 160 1 hour to at 180 Basically I'd like an internal temp of 160 since this salmon is all fresh and hasnt gone through the freeze for 30 days to kill everything process.
  24. Is it a 1/2 cup of soy sauce? There is a strange character in the original post - likely from a copy paste. How many lbs of fish is the stock recipe good for?
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