sherman brown

hello Tom! you doing OK these days? no, not again. but they took all my spoons and even went so far as to take my HIGH FIVE prop off my boat and the marine radio out of it.

I would have had plenty of the scorpion spoon and galeforcetackle.com spoons that were faded or in the case of the stinger spoons, the paint just came off after catching a very few fish. and I had some old Gale Force spoons that Vicky gave me to try after I made my orders. but someone beat you to them. I had about 500 good spoons most of them had never been used and probably never would have. then I had maybe 200+ of the spoons that I never used. but some people I treated very good broke into my pole barn and took so much stuff including all my spoons. I won't even start listing all the stuff that was stolen.

I have the slow-speed reels and they work just fine for me. the only real advantage I see with the high-speed reels is bringing them in to check lines or change lures. with a fish on you reel it in at the fish's speed and not the reel speed. but for running wire out 300' or 350' they would be priceless for checking or changing lures. let me add I am a walleye fisherman. but for salmon making a run at the boat the high-speed is the only way to go.

the only thing I can add is to go with the wind whenever possible. I don't have or use a tolling motor. I used my main motor for years but finally got a 9.9 4-stroke kicker. either way going with the wind makes it so much easier to control the boat and speed. I probably troll with the wind 90% of the time. you won't run your trolling motor nearly as hard giving you more time on the water. the waves and wind do most of the work so you can get away with running the motor on a lower setting saving your battery.

if you don't find what you want for the right price try galeforcetackle,com i don't know if they still have them but they did have blanks that need painting. you might also message vicki at ,<[email protected]> this was her email address a few years ago.

it depends on just how long you plan to keep the boat. usually an aluminum boat will last forever. i bought an old Cheokee 18' boat out of a field for 200.00. everything was rotted out including the tires. but the hull was as solid as a new boat. if it was me and i planned on keeping it for many years i would check with places like lowes and online for the new non-wood materials available today. they may cost more than plywood but plywood can get soft spots down the road from being exposed to small standind water areas that isn't noticeable but keeps the floor damp. but once the non-wood flool is installed you will never have to replace the floor again. you will have total piece of mind as long as you use the boat. plus the resale value will be higher with a floor that wont rot.

I use them on Erie for walleye. i set the lite bite as loose as it will go then set the rod tension tight enough so I'm not getting false releases. with the lite bite set extra loose, I get releases on just about all hits even from small white perch or larger yellow perch. i haven't had any problems with hookups with them set loose whatsoever. I switched to the lite bites a few years ago and would never think about switching back. I run 3 per side and 1 downrigger per side. but I don't use the slide feature on them. I just tie it to the front arm then tie a short piece of 65# braid to an o-ring then lace it through the little block in front of the lite bite arm then lace it through the lite bite arm. but I use a snubber that I tie onto the short piece of braid then tie on a good swivel then tie on a 7' fluro leader and tie another good swivel on the end of the leader and then attach my lure. if you don't use a snubber then there's no need for the short piece of braid, just use the leader for the whole thing. and some people don't use snubbers, but using braid line for my main line which is a must for tripping divers I feel better adding a snubber to give the fish a little flex when they start shaking and jerking their head.

does that don't get breed during the 1st round come back into heat again and againuntil they get stuck by a big buck. i live in IN and this years deer which we call yearlings are usually dressed at 50# to 100# but the larger ones are rare. but the deer that gets breed late have there young later than normal. the smallest deer i've seen was killed on public land by a guy new to hunting. he took his kill to the property check station and said he made a bad mistake and he quit. and left the 22# deer with them and left. a deer at 22# wouldn't have survived the winter. this happened on our muzzleloader season in mid December. bottom line yes thetre are second ruts but not as many hot does making the bucks work harder to find them. plus any does that don't ger breed during the 2nd rut will come back into heat again.

I don't know if this will work in your case or not. does your filter still attach to the bottom of your motor or do you have a remote oil filter on it? back in the days when I changed filters before I wised up, I had several stuck on my car motors. what I ended up doing was using my largest screwdriver and drive it all the way through the filter as far too the right side then use it for leverage and start turning the filter to the left slowly while still under pressure I would start tapping the filter with a hammer if I had room. there were a few where I didn't have room to tap the filter but still got them to break loose. some of the filters I had to put the screwdriver in near the bottom at an angle upward coming out near the top on the other side. and I had a couple that were still a pain getting loose. the metal on the filter would tear when a lot of pressure was applied with the screwdriver. other than using a large screwdriver or other type of bar to go all the way through the filter the only thing I would try is banging on the filter from different angles before using an oil filter. wrench. one good filter wrench that worked well for me on tight filters was a large one that had a rubber strap that went all the way around the filter. when using one of these you may want to clean the filter before using it. and a short piece of pipe to put over the handle for more leverage wouldn't hurt either. I just did a Bing search for an oil filter strap and I hadn't ever seen this one. it has a small square metal piece with the strap attached at both ends. you place it over the filter and turn the metal piece until the strap tightens around the filter. once it starts to tighten you can use a large 1/2" ratchet and keep tightening it until the filter breaks loose or Hadies freezes over. In my opinion, this would have to be the most powerful oil filter wrench I have ever seen in my 55+ years I've been driving. bottom line do a search for this strap and get one and I believe it will solve all your filter problems. i didn't do any in-depth research on where to buy one or their price.

a lot would depend on how many amps your electronics use. but for a normal fish finder and downriggers, a group 31 deep cycle batter should run both all day. normally the downriggers aren't used enough to be a big factor. so your electronics are going to be the thing that uses most of your power. if it was me with the prices of lithium batteries being very reasonable anymore i would go with a 100 AH lithium deep cycle battery. you can find off-brands on Amazon that are as cheap as AGM deep-cycle batteries. the main factors to consider is a lead/acid battery can only be discharged to about 50% before it starts damaging the battery. plus as they discharge they also lose power. a lithium battery is less than half the weight and they can be discharged almost dead and still not cause damage. the biggest factor if they don't lose any power throughout it's power cycle. under the same use, the lithium will give you at least twice the run time of the lead/acid battery. and they give you the same power at 20% as they do at full charge. in my opinion, a lithium battery would be your best option for confidence in being able to stay out a little longer and have the peace of mind you don't have to worry about your battery going dead. and if you get the 20 AMP charger they really charge up in a short time.

why not just invest in a new lithium battery for the trolling motor then hook the kicker to your starting battery for starting the kicker and recharging it when the kicker is running. going to a lithium battery for the trolling motor will extend your run time to almost double what you get from the largest lead acid battery I know of. plus you can almost deplete the lithium battery and have full power going to the motor until it's done. a lead/acid battery can only be depleted to around 50% before it starts to damage the battery, plus as it depletes it loses power as it goes down. you will not regret investing in the lithium battery. plus it weighs about half what the lead/acid battery does. plus you have peace of mind with the run time and having full power all the way through the power band.

I don't see a lot of interest in what I have. The 17p 5-blade prop has been sold and I think the nets are sold once I check on the shipping cost. but I'll send this back to the top. I still have the 19p high five prop for V-6 mercury outboards and Mercruiser alpha 1 outdrives for 235 shipped. the 5 blade will get you up much faster the a 3 blade, with much better handling in rough water and in turns. I still have 5 working Daiwa sg17lca reels and 1 that should be an easy fix and 2 the counters don't work and 1 that a young guy forced the handle backward and messed it up for parts. all for 235.00 shipped. I have 2 345 GTI level wind reels for 270.00. they both look great and work like new. these would be great for running long lengths of copper or lead core or even wire where counters are not needed and for many saltwater applications. 1500.00 is as low as I will go on the 02 mercury 9.9 four stroke with electric start, 20" shaft motor. you would be hard-pressed to find an older motor in this condition as it hasn't been used that much. it looks much better than a lot of newer motors. it starts right up and just sits there and purrs, and it is a tiller. there is nothing at all wrong with this motor. and if you buy the motor I will let you buy a used Panther electric trim and tilt for only 300.00 more. you can pick it up in Muncie Indiana or I am willing to drive a few miles to meet up, but you will need to load it yourself. the motor weighs just over 100# and I am 72 and not able to do it. and I guarantee the motor to start and run when you get it back home. i can't warranty it any longer because once you start using it I have no control over how it's used. but I know there will be nothing wrong with the motor when you get it home.