sherman brown

that's one heck of a deal for whoever gets it. it does look like it's been used very little. so I would think it's as good as new. now price a new one and 300.00 won't even be close. I would buy it myself but the boat we bought came with 2 older cannons that still do the job. then I have 2 Big Jon pro tournament riggers that are still almost new even tho they are a few yrs old they have seen very little use fishing Erie for 1 week each year for eyes that came off my old boat.

I bought a center console with a 150 HP Merc that was still a great motor for years until some good friends put something in the gas tank that caused it to lock up. I had to clean the separator filter a couple of times on my way back in but whatever it was did its job before I made it back in. hindsight is 20 20 and the first time I had to clean the filter and saw it had something in the gas I should have got a tow and not kept running the motor. if a saltwater motor is cleaned and flushed out like it should be they are as good as any other motor.

getting the lt4000 just has a little more power which ni believe you didn't really need but it doesn't hurt anything, it just cost a few bucks more. but if it gives you peace of mind it's well worth the extra money. good luck, great fishing, and have a great season.

I don't know a lot about running sliders. but if they are hanging up on your knots why not try other knots, I have had great luck with the uni-to-uni knot. another small knot that has worked great for me when splicing lines is the old blood knot. and if I'm using braid I will always add a couple of twists in the line so the braid doesn't slip.

. I haven't had any real trouble. but it's best to keep the cable from getting loops in it. and I only spool off just what I need to reach the bow eye which is usually only about 10' or less for me. now on some shallow ramps, it does take a little more. but even if it tangled it would all be right on top. I have had a loop in the cable when bringing the boat up when the cable gets tight it it never gave me any trouble. 1 am 72 and in poor health. I couldn't even think about going boating without my electric wince. the 1st time I used an electric wince my oldest son and I were at Brookville Lake camping. and my wife and I were there for the next week. so my son left with my boat still tied up at the dock. and I had to load it by myself on a steep ramp. I had to stop 2 different times and rest for about 15 minutes each time. my heart just couldn't take it. but before I launched again I drove down to Cincy and bought an electric winch or my boating would have ended yrs ago. I started with boat trailer winches but I would have to stop and winch the boat back down as it would get slack from the boat rocking on the trailer. but I finally read about the load-holding brake on the Super winch lt3000 winch. now I do have an Lt5000 that I bought new off eBay but right now I don't need to use it but it does feel good to know I have it if the lt3000 ever goes bad. now I do have a couple of other trailer winches but they are still Super Winch just a different type of winch. I am planning on using one on my new to me 17' Rinker with the 115 HP Johnson but haven't mounted it yet. I forget just what they are but I believe they are S-series winches. the cost up around 600.00 new but I bought mine like new but used for a lot less money. I am sorry for the long message. the bottom line is once you use the S-series or the LT series you will never go back to a manual.

I used one on my trailer for my 21' cobia that had roller bunks on top of the regular bunks. but on the 26' it has bunks on it and works great. I had an 87 28' sea ray with twin 4.3 Mercruiser with bunks on the trailer and it pulled up just fine. you could go up to an lt4000 but I just don't think you need it. i started using electric over 15 yrs ago. but the lt3000 with the load-holding brake is what I switched to and I trust it not to slip and let the boat slide back on the trailer. but I still hook up a safety chain just in case. if it would make you feel better with the extra power then it's not going to hurt to get the lt400. but I would make sure to let off the power once the trailer bow roller is firmly in place on the boat.

I use the superwinch lt3000 for our 26' sylvan and it doesn't even strain. but i watch to make sure the boat is pulled up to tight. these winches have a double braking system and are load-holding winches. but I get mine off eBay.

if you don't find anything you might check out Cisco tracks with a web search then go to hodgesmarine.com for cannon ratcheting holders.

I did use pancake 13# weights. we bought a boat that came with 8# dredge weights. they were even better about blowback than the 13# pancake weights. so i figured if the 8# was so good I would try some 10# weights. I found a great place to get them at redskyoutdoorgear.com and they have great dredge weights at reasonable prices. but I believe you can use these in 10# and do as good or even better with the 10# dredge-type weights than the 12# shark weights your looking for.

have you tried going to a lower pitch 4 or 5 blade prop? I had a 21' cobia glass boat with a 350 315 HP and a 19p 3 blade that had a problem getting up when loaded for Erie. I tried a 19p high five 5 blade which was awesome getting up. then I got a great buy on a 17p high 5 and it was a dream prop. we now have a 26' sylvan with a 350 280 HP with an elephant ear prop but not sure about the pitch but I think it is maybe a 16p. if you message me I will check the pitch and let you know. but if you try going 2 pitches lower than what you have now with a high 5 it will give you so much more power on bottom end that it will just amaze you. when I switched to the 19p high 5 it was like I went to another boat. all my props were bought on eBay used for less than half of what a new one cost. but both these boats had Mercruiser outdrives. do you have outdrives or is yours an inboard? if you have an inboard the only thing that may help is trying a lower pitch prop. the only other thing is to check and see if the 5.7 can be replaced with a larger stronger engine. but I would check on having the 5.7 built with a lot more power.

didn't have a problem myself. just clicked on the tab then when the tab came up in the right corner of my screen i clicked on open.

check the main fuse located under the cowling.

I don't know if this helps or not but I put a 13 1/4X17p high five prop on my mercruiser in a 21' Cobia boat. it had so much better hole shot handled so much better in rough water and in turnes. i would never put a 3 blade prop back on my boat. they are SS and cost over 500.00 new but you can usually find a used one in great like new condition for under 300.00 on eBay. I have been buying from them for the last 20 years and all the props I have bought used were as described. if anything you buy isn't as described you can file a dispute and get your money back. but even if you don't want the high five you can probably find the prop you want for a lot less money getting a used prop off eBay.

if your RPMs are going up but the boat isn't going faster it's a good bet the hub is bad. i can't think of any other reason that would account for this. I would think if it was the lower unit you could hear the gears grinding. the 1st thing I would do is put my spare prop on if I had one and see what it did. if you don't have a spare I would be getting one. but you can take it or ship it to a prop shop and have them check it and replace it if the hub is bad. if it has a flo torx hub kit you can tell if the corners are rounded off. if it's bad just get a new kit and replace the square insert.

yeah, just silicone will last longer than the pump in most installations. i used it to block a couple of larger holes in my transom and it was still good and flexible after about 10 years.