sherman brown

4200 would work but a bit harder to remove. I would just use 100% silicone for that job. whatever you do don't use 5200 as it is more of a permanent application.

made mistake of not reading post correctly.

not that I'm aware of. do you have an outboard or outdrive? it's really easy if it's an outboard. they make several connector rods to connect an outboard to outboard. some are made with threads on the ends so you can cut them to the length if needed you can bend them for a better fit. just do a search for kicker steering kits. or you can check on eBay or Amazon. I even have a brand new Panther steering kit you can have for 22.00 plus shipping, as for steering for an outdrive to the kicker is a little different. I use an EZ steer kit that has a connector that straps to the kicker and another one that bolts on the outdrive. you want to set the kicker straight and the outdrive straight then measure the distance between the connectors. my rod fully closed was about 1 1/2" short so I turned the clamp on the kicker just enough to fit. but i could have opened the shaft on the rod and matched it up. but i wanted to start with it closed. once you measure get a kit with the fully closed rod as close to that distance as possible without being to long to fit. as long as it's close you will be good to go. it can be a little shorter but not longer. I use a Panther electric tilt I bought off FB marketplace for 300.00 and I already had the spacer that's also a Panther spacer. with a 3" spacer in front of it so when I tilt the kicker will tilt up and not hit the boat. does your kicker have power tilt? if not you might think about getting the Panther electric tilt for it. with the EZ steer, you can tilt either motor or outdrive up with it still connected without any problems. as for the motor, a Honda makes a great motor that should last for years. does it have electric start which will make it much easier to start than a rope start. but before you buy make sure it runs. you can use a set of muffs on a garden hose. you want to open the water all the way up just to make sure it gets enough water while running. it doesn't even come close to the pressure you get running down the lake. make sure water comes out of the pee hole in a good stream. if the stream is weak or not at all take a short piece of .65 to .95 weedeater line and work it in and out of the pee hole line with the motor running. if it stops and doesn't want to go in it's probably blocked. just keep hitting it with the line with the motor running and it should give. if it's open you will probably need a new impeller installed. you should be able to get your serial number and get a Honda dealer to get the year for you.

tluc has 2 listed for 300 in great shape.

if you have a great hole shot but want a little more speed you might try going up 2 degrees in pitch. but this will change your hole shot and might give you 2 or 3 mph. if it's running that close to max hp you will gain some RPMs and gain speed. myself, I wouldn't think about changing anything unless your hole shot is very poor then I would go with a rev-4 4 blade prop.

you want to be sure to wash the trailer as well as the boat with lots and lots of fresh water. then put a set of good muffs that puts water in from both sides and run the motor until it gets warmed up so it washes the whole system out. and don't be afraid to open the water up on high. i have always used high pressure on the hose. it doesn't get near the pressure as running down the lake at WOT.

I don't have one just because m,y merc is too old and it won't work for me. I was going to get one until I read up on them and if I'm not wrong they won't work on merc 9.9 motors older than 05 models and I have a 00. you can google search for reviews on it and see what it gives you. if I could have used it I was going to buy it.

the system above will work to keep the trolling motor running longer. but if you could spare the money for a lithium 100 amp 12v battery you should be able to use it all day for steering. but if you want to run a charger into it from your motor you would want a lithium starting battery like the Dakota 60 amp 12v which is on sale for 100.00 off but still 599.00. off hand I don't know of any other cheaper starting battery that can be charged by your big motor or the kicker. plus I believe you can use an isolator for safety. I have seen cheaper 12v lithium 100 amp batteries for your trolling motor but they can't be charged by your motors. they are much lighter they will hold power twice as long as a lead/acid battery and charge 2 times faster but you need a lithium charger that will work for charging them.

you shouldn't have any problems getting out that far with a 35 gallon tank. I fish Erie's central basin with a 21' glass cobia with a 350 Vortec 315 HP Mercruiser replacement motor with an aluminum high rise and a double pump holly 4 barrel 600 carb. I started out at 6:00 am in the morning and have gone out 18 to 20 miles then trolled until around 3 pm then made it back in running medium speed in rough water and it used less than 25 gallons to fill it back up. with a 35 gallon tank on a calmer day where you could stay on plane, you would be able to go even farther and not use 35 gallons. but when we would come back in rough water we would only be able to run about 15 MPH and that drank the gas.

you might try looking on eBay.