Jump to content

sherman brown

Members
  • Posts

    1,061
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sherman brown

  1. I have been using them for 30+ years and never calibrated 1 yet. I just spool the same amount of line on each reel getting them close to full. I use the counter to get me back to the same spot I want to fish. if I let out 150' of line and get a fish I want my lure back as close to that spot as I can get, I have found with some line counters it's best to zero them each time before letting out line. many times my counters were on a half number and did not work, so I wouldn't know how much line was out. but now I try to remember to just reset my counter making sure it's on all zeros.
  2. it doesn't hurt to upgrade the drags to start with. if you leave the drag tight when it's stored the washers are fixed at the position so you have no more adjustment on the drag. you should back the drags all the way off and let them set for a few days and then check them. for future reference when you are done fishing for the trip always back the drags all the way off for storage. I don't intend to offend you but like said above the Magda pro reels are the bottom of the list. you really should think about an upgrade. even if you replace 1 or 2 at a time you will be much better off. a convertor 30 is much better or a Daiwa accudepth plus 47, or Daiwa sealine sg47lc3b are all better choices. I walleye fish in the central basin of Erie and use small reels. I used the old accudepth plus 17lc for years and never had one fail me. but upgraded part of them with the old sealine sg17lca which serves me well. I upgraded part of them with the sealine sglc3b. then when I lost a couple of the old LCA reels I upgraded them with the Okuma Coldwater 203 reels. I love the coldwater reels they are the smoothest of the lot and the drags are great. but I've only used them for 2 week long trips to Erie. so I haven't used them enough to recommend them without adding a little salt. 10 years or more down the road then I will be able to say for sure. new washers should cure your problem. but you will still be using Magda reels.
  3. you should have been able to tighten it enough that it wouldn't slip when turning. I have a Mercruiser outdrive to a 9.9 4-stroke Merc. and it steers great. I have my kicker mounted on a Panther tilt the only time it slips is when I tilt my kicker. and when I told the kicker down I have to turn my outdrive all the way over to correct the bar. I have a short bar for an outboard to outboard but it would be too short for an outdrive. I believe my bar is 39" closed and centered it just fits my kicker but my kicker bracket is turned slightly so it's centered with the outdrive.
  4. they are the best you're going to find and they have more clearance than any others I've seen. I use them on my cannon riggers and the beads do get hung up at times. if I was still using the stops on mine I would try to use a end roller for a cannon rigger rigged in a way to retrieve my cable and still let the bead go through smoothly. but this is just 1 person's opinion.
  5. I'll check the next time I go down to the pole barn. and I can check the pitch I am using now which is working great. I believe it's a 15p but could be 13. but your 14p should be fine.
  6. i beleive as the others do that the seal around the shaft is getting worn out. you did use the little washers around the fill screws didn't you? i found out the hard way to always use them.
  7. I have always used 8' or longer ML downrigger rods and never had one that was too stiff for my riggers. a rod you should really check out is the Daiwa GX2 ugly stick med action on these rods are limber enough for riggers. but a light action might be a better option for you but not needed. I just took a quick look on eBay and 1 listing is for 3 light action 9' rods for 95.00 and free shipping.
  8. you will be so much better off with lithium. they run much longer and can be discharged much lower than lead/acid batteries. they do cost more but shop around at places like Amazon before you buy.
  9. have you removed the lower screw and checked to see if any water or milky grease came out? if just lower unit grease comes out close it up and put more grease in to make sure if it's low. I have had outdrives have what looks like the same thing but it turned out to be nothing but exhaust scum and water.
  10. I hate to come off as an AH but on the 1st picture, it plainly reads four stroke.
  11. just go to eBay and search for shift cables for Honda outboard motors. I think the cables are interchangeable like the Mercury cables are. you might even add the length you want to your search. it should give you some options to buy both cables together. I'm using old 115 HP 2 stroke Mercury 1979 cables on my 2000 Mercury 9.9 4 stroke.
  12. I don't know what channels to monitor on LO. On Erie, most guys use I think 79 on the west end and 68 on the central basin and east. but I check both of them and use 68 most of the time. back when I salmon fished Lake Michigan I used 68 there. another thing I like doing is putting my radio on scan then if guys switch channels to share info with a friend and not broadcast all over the place.
  13. any time you're on big water I think it's foolish to not have a VHF radio just in case something breaks down and you need a tow or god forbid but if someone gets sick or has a bad injury you need to be able to contact the Coast Guard so they can have an ambulance waiting for you to get back to shore. I went the extra mile when I upgraded my 20-year-old radio. I bought one with the GPS already on it then registered it through BOATUS. now if I am sinking or have other problems I just push the big red button and they know everything about me and my boat.
  14. I have an EGC-12 W GPS PUCK I will sell you for 12.00 plus shipping. if it turns out bad I will give you a full refund. I have an SS 19P HIGH FIVE PROP that is in great condition for 250.00 shipped to you. I have an electric Panther tilt for your kicker motor. these are a great tilt option for motors without the factory tilt. 475.,00 and I cover shipping. may add other items later.
  15. where were you at telling me this before I was skinned, or scammed? i did learn to not trust anyone but I learned the hard way. i had no idea that more scammers are on FB Marketplace than honest people. it's a gold mine for scammers.
  16. I got scammed badly on 2 fish finders on FB Marketplace. the 1st one didn't have a PP account but found a friend that let him use his but we had to do friends and family. after I paid I never heard from either of them again. the 2nd one didn't have a PP account either. after a few days, he came up with the idea of paying with Zelle through my bank and as soon as he was paid I never heard from him again. So now if it's more than a few bucks I will only pay with PP goods and services.
  17. I would like more info on both birds as well. if you want you can message me with more information. things like are the feathers off, shipping, minimum amount, and cost on both birds, will they be shipped frozen or on ice. when I get meat from Wild Fork they pack it with dry ice and it's still frozen solid when I get it.
  18. i used boat us for years and ended up saving some money. I used almost every service they offered. my outdrive crashed at Geneve Oh so I called the number on my card and that's all I had to do. it did take almost 2 hours for the towboat to reach me. when we got back to the marina the cost was 610.00 but I paid with my signature. I lost the tire and wheel off my trailer on I-75 just a few miles south of the KY state line. it was me and my younger brother returning home in IN. we didn't know what we were going to do. a cop had come by and said it had to be moved now or he would call their tow service which usually costs double. then I thought about my trailer assist and called boat us again. wasn't long before a flatbed came and got our boat and took it back to their shop. again, all I paid was with my signature. next, I had a flat on my F350 SD 4 DOOR CREW CAB going through the drive-through at Hardies. again I called Boat Us. They found a service on their list but he had to be paid up front by us. I needed a new tire so he brought me a tire and mounted it and put it back on my truck. they charged Boat Us 375.00 for just the service call plus I paid for the tire and the mounting fee which should have been paid by boat us in their service fee.
  19. when you say faucet pressure is your water coming from a faucet or an outside line? faucet pressure is much too low to use on your motor.
  20. the water should always be opened all the way. and I would clean the pee line first, then if it's still low volume your motor might not get hot idling but at high RPM you should pay close attention to your heat gauge. but I would never take the chance, I would replace the water pump impeller at the least.
  21. the water temp and steam isn't caused by the motor and get hot much sooner than your motor. As long as your head doesn't feel hot then it is all good. if you still have a weak stream something might be blocking the line. I would make sure I got the line clean all the way through it. you can feel it when you are all the way through the line. if the flow doesn't improve after cleaning you might want to think about replacing your water pump. the reason I know about this is I was having trouble with my Mercruiser kept getting hot after I replaced the impeller when I had run it without turning the water back on while we were working on the motor. it seemed fine but after 3000 RPMs would get hot fast. I went back and made sure the lines hadn't got blocked by my old impeller busting into many pieces. I spent more than a week researching everything including the pee line on outboard motors. i had almost given up on it then I remembered a charter caption that lives close by and said he was also a marine mechanic. I gave him a call and asked if he could work on it. I told him everything about it. then he asked me if I had changed the upper housing and the wear plate on the bottom. he said that sometimes they got distorted after they had been hot. I replaced everything except the lower part. when I took it back out it never got hot. by now I had already bought another boat and sold this one.
  22. sometimes the lines get clogged from bugs to spider webs. on a couple of motors that weren't getting any flow, I used a large piece of weedeater line and ran it up the pee hole until I hit the blockage. I kept moving the line in and out hitting the clog hard until it gave way and I ran the line all the way in and did the back and forth. water was already coming out around the line and when I removed the line the water was dark green until all the crap came out. one motor had set for a couple of years but both were stopped up with green moss. I have had quite a few motors over my 45 years boating not pee until I opened them up. at first, I used a small wire to unstop the water line. but about 15 years ago I started using the Weedealine. to answer your question the water should be coming out within the 1st 60 to 90 seconds. but if the pee tube has anything in the tube it may take a little longer or not at all. to explain it better the thermostat has nothing at all to do with the pee tube. the water doesn't ever enter the inside of the motor. it has its own line running by the motor and next to the exhaust tubes that heat the water up. the water gets hot from the exhaust, not from the motor. the pee tube water is a bypass to let water flow so the operator knows it's pumping water. taking a short time the water is next to the exhaust tubes which heats it up. if it's slow to start flowing the water will get hot and cause the steam. be sure if it isn't flowing after a couple of minutes to run something up the pee hole all the way up. it doesn't hurt your motor to run it without water for a few minutes as it takes a while for the motor to get hot enough to hurt it. when I clean the line I run the motor so the water pressure helps clean the line as I break up the clog. if the motor is running and you're worried it is overheating just carefully put your hand against the head to see how hot it is. it shouldn't be near hot enough to burn you. my tip of the day is to use a set of muffs that has water going to both sides. with any muffs make sure they are covering the water intake on the motor. be sure to turn the water supply as much as it will go. some people think they will blow out the impeller and only turn the water on about halfway. they don't ever think about the pressure from the lake going 40 or 50 MPH. it is so much more pressure than any water supply. if you watch the water coming out the muffs with a warm motor you will actually see the amount of water being much less than it was.
  23. if it has fuel in the oil you have a much larger problem. and there is no way it should have enough fluid in it for it to run out when the dipstick is removed. but before I would do anything with what you say about the oil pouring out when you pull the dipstick and the smell of gas I wouldn't run it again and set up a time to take the motor in to have it checked and repaired. it is something a lot more serious than condensation in your oil. my guess would be a blown head gasket or a cracked head. but getting it checked by a certified mechanic will give you the answers to the problem. they might know some other way you are getting water or fuel in the oil. but my first guess would be the head gasket or the head. but 1 more option would be a cracked block but I think that is highly unlikely. these are the only ways I know for water or oil to get in your oil. it sounds a lot like you may have a blown head gasket or a cracked heat. with what you say here I would take a small amount of the oil and place it on the ground or other safe place away from everything that might catch fire. then I would get a long stick or other thing then I would tape a piece of paper on the end and light the paper then hold it to the oil and see if it burns. if it's just fuel and water nothing should happen but if fuel is in it, it should catch on fire in short order.
  24. try googling downrigger dredge weight and see what you get. and yes a dredge weight is shaped like a fish. but it has small front fins that are set to cause the weight to dive downward which it actually dives and pulls the weight down. I just went and did a Google search for downrigger dredge weight and got several different sites that have them. eBay has good prices on some of them but Walmart isn't bad.
×
×
  • Create New...