sherman brown

when you say faucet pressure is your water coming from a faucet or an outside line? faucet pressure is much too low to use on your motor.

the water should always be opened all the way. and I would clean the pee line first, then if it's still low volume your motor might not get hot idling but at high RPM you should pay close attention to your heat gauge. but I would never take the chance, I would replace the water pump impeller at the least.

the water temp and steam isn't caused by the motor and get hot much sooner than your motor. As long as your head doesn't feel hot then it is all good. if you still have a weak stream something might be blocking the line. I would make sure I got the line clean all the way through it. you can feel it when you are all the way through the line. if the flow doesn't improve after cleaning you might want to think about replacing your water pump. the reason I know about this is I was having trouble with my Mercruiser kept getting hot after I replaced the impeller when I had run it without turning the water back on while we were working on the motor. it seemed fine but after 3000 RPMs would get hot fast. I went back and made sure the lines hadn't got blocked by my old impeller busting into many pieces. I spent more than a week researching everything including the pee line on outboard motors. i had almost given up on it then I remembered a charter caption that lives close by and said he was also a marine mechanic. I gave him a call and asked if he could work on it. I told him everything about it. then he asked me if I had changed the upper housing and the wear plate on the bottom. he said that sometimes they got distorted after they had been hot. I replaced everything except the lower part. when I took it back out it never got hot. by now I had already bought another boat and sold this one.

sometimes the lines get clogged from bugs to spider webs. on a couple of motors that weren't getting any flow, I used a large piece of weedeater line and ran it up the pee hole until I hit the blockage. I kept moving the line in and out hitting the clog hard until it gave way and I ran the line all the way in and did the back and forth. water was already coming out around the line and when I removed the line the water was dark green until all the crap came out. one motor had set for a couple of years but both were stopped up with green moss. I have had quite a few motors over my 45 years boating not pee until I opened them up. at first, I used a small wire to unstop the water line. but about 15 years ago I started using the Weedealine. to answer your question the water should be coming out within the 1st 60 to 90 seconds. but if the pee tube has anything in the tube it may take a little longer or not at all. to explain it better the thermostat has nothing at all to do with the pee tube. the water doesn't ever enter the inside of the motor. it has its own line running by the motor and next to the exhaust tubes that heat the water up. the water gets hot from the exhaust, not from the motor. the pee tube water is a bypass to let water flow so the operator knows it's pumping water. taking a short time the water is next to the exhaust tubes which heats it up. if it's slow to start flowing the water will get hot and cause the steam. be sure if it isn't flowing after a couple of minutes to run something up the pee hole all the way up. it doesn't hurt your motor to run it without water for a few minutes as it takes a while for the motor to get hot enough to hurt it. when I clean the line I run the motor so the water pressure helps clean the line as I break up the clog. if the motor is running and you're worried it is overheating just carefully put your hand against the head to see how hot it is. it shouldn't be near hot enough to burn you. my tip of the day is to use a set of muffs that has water going to both sides. with any muffs make sure they are covering the water intake on the motor. be sure to turn the water supply as much as it will go. some people think they will blow out the impeller and only turn the water on about halfway. they don't ever think about the pressure from the lake going 40 or 50 MPH. it is so much more pressure than any water supply. if you watch the water coming out the muffs with a warm motor you will actually see the amount of water being much less than it was.

if it has fuel in the oil you have a much larger problem. and there is no way it should have enough fluid in it for it to run out when the dipstick is removed. but before I would do anything with what you say about the oil pouring out when you pull the dipstick and the smell of gas I wouldn't run it again and set up a time to take the motor in to have it checked and repaired. it is something a lot more serious than condensation in your oil. my guess would be a blown head gasket or a cracked head. but getting it checked by a certified mechanic will give you the answers to the problem. they might know some other way you are getting water or fuel in the oil. but my first guess would be the head gasket or the head. but 1 more option would be a cracked block but I think that is highly unlikely. these are the only ways I know for water or oil to get in your oil. it sounds a lot like you may have a blown head gasket or a cracked heat. with what you say here I would take a small amount of the oil and place it on the ground or other safe place away from everything that might catch fire. then I would get a long stick or other thing then I would tape a piece of paper on the end and light the paper then hold it to the oil and see if it burns. if it's just fuel and water nothing should happen but if fuel is in it, it should catch on fire in short order.

try googling downrigger dredge weight and see what you get. and yes a dredge weight is shaped like a fish. but it has small front fins that are set to cause the weight to dive downward which it actually dives and pulls the weight down. I just went and did a Google search for downrigger dredge weight and got several different sites that have them. eBay has good prices on some of them but Walmart isn't bad.

you have it right!! I love these weights. I can't wait until I get to try the 10# ones I bought. HAPPY FISHING TO EVERYONE AND THE BEST OF LUCK.

I watched a video of running a Garmin with the transducer showing what was forward of the boat. I thought it was awesome so you would know ahead of this when you were going to be in fish. I thought very seriously about switching to Garmin for this feature alone. but it was cost prohibitive for me. right now I have all Lowrance HDS units, I have a 12 live and a 9 gen 3, and an 8 gen1 for emergencies.

checking your thermostat would be a great place to start. but any time you run your motor in colder water and colder temps if you don't run it at a higher RPM long enough to dry the condensation it will mix with your oil. the more times you run in colder conditions at idle will make things worse each time it's used.

1st off I have no idea what you're talking about. A downrigger dredge weight is the weight that attaches to your DR cable that takes your lures down. it doesn't attach to your DR weight as it is your DR weight. just go to Walmart's site and do a search for downrigger weights. they carry several designs of rigger weights with the dredge weight being one of them. the design with the little wings with the downward angle causes them to dive better than other weights of the same weight. which causes less blowback as they aren't just weight but the diving design helps them pull down with a deeper dive curve than other weights. I really hope this clears up any confusion you have. when we forgot our 12# pancake weights and found the 8# dredge weight on the boat I thought we would have a lot more blowback than the pancake weights. but when we let them down and set the blowback was much less with the 8# weight over the 12# pancake weights I had been using for years.

I have found the dredge weights to work the best with less blowback than all the others I have tried. I used 12# pancake weights to reduce blowback. One trip in the boat we just bought the weights didn't get loaded. we found a set of 8# dredge weights that we had to use. they worked better with less blowback than my 12# pancake weights had. I bought a set of 10# dredge weights to use but haven't used them yet. WALLMART is the best option I know of for the lowest price on rigger weights. and they have a pretty good choice of weights. they have the 10# dredge weights in silver for only 34.00 each. they have pink and purple priced at 42.00. but they have several balls with fin weights at much better prices.

does everything work like they should? if these are in working condition I want to buy them. please let me know something?

if filling the boat about 1/2 full or better doesn't show any leaks it'll be hard to find. but even then you won't have much pressure pushing the water out but on the water, you have all the weight of the boat. the 1st thing I would do is go to the transom and reseal any screws in the transom. old screws from past transducer mounting if not sealed right will let lots of water in, I learned my lesson the hard way. take every transducer screw out and reseal them making sure you put enough sealer on them. I have always just used 100% Silicone but I have read some great reviews on the 3M 4200 marine sealant. but if you want a more permanent seal then the 5200 is what you want. but the 4200 is more flexible and the best choice for sealing screws.

if I run divers I want nothing but braid for my main line at least 30# with 50# being a better choice. braid has no stretch which makes it much better for tripping your diver. on rough days the release tension has to be set on the tight side to prevent a bunch of false releases, so with anything that has stretch makes it almost impossible to trip the diver. braid doesn't have any stretch and will trip the diver much better. king salmon can make some long hard runs and put on a show above the water at times. as for leaders for kings, I want something strong to prevent the leader from breaking. 20# fluro is the minimum to use. but it's all open water so you can run a lighter line and get away with it by backing the drag off enough the light line doesn't break. for me I don't like losing so much fishing time on the fight with a big king with a light line. it takes forever to land these big fish on a light line. the bottom line for me when running divers is 50# power pro braid for my main line with a leader no more than a foot longer than my rod. the best fluro I have found is Seaguar preimier fluro leader line. this line is the best I have ever used even for walleye fishing on Lake Erie where I use 20# leader line and love using it.

thank you for the site and info. those look pretty good but I'm thinking about getting the one that has the surround view. it is priced at 499.00 but I found them for 399.00. As soon as we get our checks on the 1st and 3rd of April I will be ordering one for my 17 year old granddaughter and I to use this fall. That is unless she learns to use my summit climbing stand, and I am still able to get up the tree with mine.

back when I first started using divers I was using the Cabelas quick draw rod holders I had been using for trolling crankbaits. and they worked OK but had a twist in them that scared the crap out of me. I couldn't afford to go and buy all new holders at the time. the charter we went out on to learn how to fish the central basin with dipsies. we went out with him for 2 days. he was using steel clamp on holders on his rear rail. they worked great. but during our 2 days, a few of them had turned about an inch on the rail and had to be adjusted back up. . so I decided to make the switch so I would be able to make fine adjustments. they cost a lot more money than the Cannon. after using them a couple of times I realized I had made a mistake for me. I liked the one-hand Cannon much better than the extra stops., so now I use my Cannon and love being able to set the holder with only one hand while I have a reel and rod in my other hand. I like the single axis best myself. they only turn 35 degrees each way and the double axis turns 360 but the single turn is much more than I will ever need. She can make small adjustments left or right to fine tune the angle of the holder. the double uses pins to adjust them left or right. if the next pin is too far then the holder isn't just where you want it. you could go back to the other hole but it wasn't right either.

I understand where you are coming from. but the props I've been buying are 600.00 to 700.00 new and when I can get a like new used one for 250.00 or less I choose used. when I get the prop from eBay I visually check it out then I do the on-water test. if the prop has anything wrong with it or if the description is off then you can get your money refunded. all you need to do is file a dispute for item not as described. I have bought many stainless props off eBay and never had a bad one. I guess one of my best deals was on a 17p high five prop that I only paid 175.00 shipping included. the same prop new is around 600.00

you might try Google or just a web search. why do you ask? if you run dipsies or any diver you want to start with 30# power pro braid at a minimum.

the Daiwa wilderness trolling rods in M/L 8.5' and 9.0' are so great for fishing walleye on Erie's central basin with lite bite slide divers. I never use the slide part. I tie to the front arm then I tie a 65# piece of braid about 12" to an O-RING then lace the line through the back and tie my snubber to that line then I use a 7' to 8' Seaguar premier fluro leader attached with a swivel then I use another swivel on spoons, harnesses, and on most of my cranks. what I love about these rods is they are all glass that will stand up to the abuse for many years. the M/L is the only way to go as they flex when the boat rocks so I can set my releases a little lighter. and running more than one rod per side they flex together and if something small gets on my hook it's so easy to detect that rod isn't acting right. A few years ago we were catching a lot of larger fish. with the stiffer rods, the hook pulled out so many more times than with the lighter rods which would flex taking stress off the fish and hook. for trolling you have no reason to spend the money for sensitive rods. the rods are all you will ever need. they are also great downrigger rods or anywhere else you want to use them.