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sherman brown

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Everything posted by sherman brown

  1. FYI if you have to buy new tracks the Cisco tracks are much cheaper and work on items that fit the cannon tracks. when I bought my cannon ratcheting rod holders for walleye fishing I bought cannon tracks. but when I needed more tracks I found the Cisco tracks by searching online and they were less money. I bought the Cisco and never looked back.
  2. I think I have 2 12# pancake weights that I no longer use. but before I go searching I need to know if you are interested. but I just checked on Amazon and if you have a Prime account you can buy these cheaper than I can sell mine. I would have to have 90.00 for the pair shipped to you. but they have pancake weights for 37.00 each plus tax and shipping if you don't have a Prime account. but what I did was switch to the dredge weights which I believe is a much better weight that has less blowback. we bought a used boat and went to Erie and we had forgotten to load our 12# pancake weights. we found 2 8# dredge weights on the boat so we used them. we had less blowback with them than we had with the 12# pancake weights. so I bought 2 new 10# dredge weights but haven't tried them yet. I suggest you check on Amazon for weights before you buy any unless you get a good buy on here.
  3. I can't really give you any advice because it sounds like you already have everything you need, knowledge. All the old 2 stroke motors are pretty much the same and are straightforward. for someone who has the knowledge to rebuild auto engines shouldn't have any problem rebuilding any 2-stroke boat motor. the only thing is to be sure and torque the head bolts as the instructions say they should be torqued. the rest is so simple you should have no problem. all the old 2-stroke motors I have dealt with have roller bearings so no need to check the clearance like an auto motor. they also use reed valves so you don't have to set the valves. now all the rest is simple. and rebuilding your motor will be the same as a new motor. but you may need to adjust the old cards or rebuild them.
  4. on my old 21' Cobia I didn't use a TM. and I had 2 dual-purpose series 27 batteries. I had them hooked up to a Perco switch and I could run battery 1 or 2 or both. 1 was the house battery that was used to power my electronics when the motor wasn't running. then when I started the motor with my other battery I would then use the Perko switch turned to both so it would be charging both of my batteries. but if I was rigging a boat now I would add a battery isolator so I wouldn't end up with a dead cranking battery. plus when the big motor is started it directs the power to the low battery 1st so it gets charged in a hurry. but the battery isolators are all automatic and you never get caught with a dead starting battery. with the system I had I always used the same batteries, the same brand, series, cranking amps, and so on. but I don't know if a series 24 starting battery and a series 31 deep cycle battery can be used with the isolator but I see no reason why not. you have a choice of 100s of them at Amazon from just the isolator to complete kits to install them.
  5. You may be right about the jumper you have. the one I use is an off-brand and it works great in the salvage yard when I connect the red jumper wire to the positive cable and hook the ground to the ground cable or and metal of the car. then I car run anything electrical to see if it works before taking it off. The jumper I have is just a small powerful lithium battery that works and time the jump cables are attached to any 12v item. are you connecting to the cables that connect to your battery? Are you pushing the jump button on the jumper to turn the power on like what has to be done before jumping a car? are you 100% sure the cable you hooked to is battery 1? did you try switching to battery 2 just to see if that was the problem? any time the power button is turned on the cables should be putting out 12v of power which should run any 12v item. I just had to jump my son's car yesterday when his battery was completely dead. Not even the dome light came on. I connected the cables and pushed the power button for 3 seconds until the little power light came on and hit the starter and she cranked over good and started right up.
  6. I will take the stinger spoons. you can message me to work out the details.
  7. just to add to your post. if you decide to go with a 4-blade prop it is recommended to drop 2" in pitch over a 3-blade prop. I highly recommend switching to a 4-blade for better everything, better handling in rough water or in turns, and better lift, the only downside is if you have a 3-blade of the right and the RPMs are right then going to a 4-blade might cost you 1 or 2 MPH at WOT. but in your case going to a 17p 4-blade prop should improve everything. and I will always use a high-five prop on any 8-cylinder Mercruiser that I get. now my son and I went together and bought a 26' Sylvan glass boat that has an elephant ear 16p prop that is on the boat. but if he will let me i still want to just try my 17p high-five prop just to see which one performs the best. and I don't know what motor you are running to get those numbers with a 19p aluminum prop. but he is running the 4.3 6-cylinder motor.
  8. I have used my lithium power pack jump stater to power many cars in salvage yards to check electrical items before they are removed without ever having any problem. are you 100% sure you had the Perko switch set to the correct battery? or were you connecting the leads from the motor to the Perko switch? there is just no reason that the jump pack shouldn't have worked as long as the power was being directed to the trim motor. the packs i have always used had power to the cables as soon as the power was turned on, on the jump pack. if you hook to the hot cable that goes to a battery and hook the ground to any ground then try the 1 battery and if it doesn't work try switching to battery 2. we were up on Erie and the starter was reading cranking slow with my switch on both. I never thought about checking anything out I just had a new starter installed. but when I started the motor it hadn't helped anything. I switched to battery 1 and she cranked like crazy. then I switched to battery 2 and it wouldn't even turn the motor. my point being you should check each side separately and not both batteries at the same time
  9. your speed isn't that bad but you need a lower pitch to improve hole shot. but most times going to a lower pitch might hurt your top end a little. but it's a fair trade-off to get a better hole shot and get your RPMs up a little. and just so you know going to a 4 blade should improve your hole shot. my boat started with a 19p 3 blade that struggled to get on plane. so I got on eBay and bought a 19p high five that jumped my boat up on plane. it was like I had bought a new boat. but my RPMs were low so I tried a 17p high five and everything was perfect. with the 19p it took forever to get up and now it starts getting up as soon as I hit the throttle.
  10. on my 21' cobia I ended up with a 17p high five on it. but the same pitch in a 4-blade should work great for you. I would check on eBay for a used Revolution 4 blade 17p. what is the max RPMs for that motor? I would think around 4800 and if so you are running really low. how does it get on plane and what speed are you getting now?
  11. my 2000 merc 9.9 4 stroke is to old for this to work on it. but from what i've heard and read these are great if you don't have hydralic steering. good luck to the buyer as this is a great deal on a stand alone auto pilot for your kicker motor.
  12. I like using 1 bag on each side for better boat control. and the size of the bag is most dependent on how slow you will ever want to go. It's also better to error on the larger size. you may use a little more gas but you can always bump your speed up but you can't get it to run slower if your bags are too small. I ran 36" bags on my 21' Cobia glass boat with a 5.7 Vortec motor with 315 HP. but most of the time I trolled with the wind so I only had to bump it up very little. on calmer days I only used 1 bag.
  13. I sent you a pm of what I use and where I bought it.
  14. been there and done similar back in the 1st few years fishing Erie;s western basin out of a van and filleting our fish in the parking lot where we spent our nights.
  15. many, many years ago I bought an LCX 38C HD fish finder/GPS combo unit that has been a great unit for all my fishing needs including Lake Erie. it was still working great so I really can't explain why I did it, but I just wanted to try a newer unit. I bought an HDS 9 GEN 3 which I haven't even used yet. I paid 860.00 for this unit with a 3-D structure scan box and transducer. but I kept looking at other used models. I ended up getting an HDS 12 LIVE or the carbon unit I just can't remember which unit I ended up buying, with the 3 in 1 transducer for 1090.00. if you want to check on these types of units just send me a message. they have many of the HDS 9 GEN 3 or you might find a good deal on a smaller live or carbon unit you want.
  16. the ground can be attached to any source of ground. with the hot wire connected to the hot cable it should work great.
  17. back in the day, I used them all at one time or another. My choice of them all would be these Penn riggers. I think they are the best manual rigger you can buy. you won't regret buying Peens.
  18. Ethanol-free gas isn't around where I live so I always have used gas with ethanol in it in everything I have owned in my 45 or so years I've been boating and the only problem I've had was the old gas lines going bad. I haven't lost any of my outboards or Mercruiser motors that I've owned. I used the old Mercury 115 tower of power inline 6 for 25 years and it was still running until I bought a boat that had a 115 Johnson. up until my oldest son and I bought a used 26' Sylvan boat the only time I bought marina gas was while playing in the water. the only place we use the 26' boat is at Geneva Ohio fishing for walleye. now we dock the boat and use marina gas.
  19. yeah, but what a way to go!!!!!!!!!!! you have some great-looking baits for Erie's central basin. I am a lover of anything that has purple on it. I started drift fishing in the western basin then switched to trolling until I had a chance to go out on a charter for 2 days on the central basin. the second day the caption had taught us enough to run 3 dipsy divers on each side. We used the deeper divers until we tried the lite bite slide divers. but we run them like the Dipsey divers with a 7' fluro leader and don't use the slide part. but the lite bite feature works awesome for us. GOOD LUCK WITH THOSE BEAUTIFUL PURPLE SPOONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  20. I had never used the ones that were orange before. we bought a used boat and didn't get my 12# pancake weights loaded. there were a couple of this type of weight in 8# that we had to use. I didn't expect much from the 8# weights. but we started using them and to my huge surprise, they had much less blowback than I was getting with the flat 12# pancake weights. I ordered 2 10# weights but haven't used them yet. if you want the best weights I have used in my 45 years using riggers these 8# weights have worked great. if you start looking for these they are called DREDGE WEIGHTS. the 1 is marked 10# and should work better than the other weights shown. 2 of these shipped in a small box together by priority mail is pretty cheap as they charge by size and not weight up to 70#. i once shipped 64# of flat lead in the flat small box they furnish for less than 10.00.
  21. hello Tom! you doing OK these days? no, not again. but they took all my spoons and even went so far as to take my HIGH FIVE prop off my boat and the marine radio out of it.
  22. I would have had plenty of the scorpion spoon and galeforcetackle.com spoons that were faded or in the case of the stinger spoons, the paint just came off after catching a very few fish. and I had some old Gale Force spoons that Vicky gave me to try after I made my orders. but someone beat you to them. I had about 500 good spoons most of them had never been used and probably never would have. then I had maybe 200+ of the spoons that I never used. but some people I treated very good broke into my pole barn and took so much stuff including all my spoons. I won't even start listing all the stuff that was stolen.
  23. if you are selling in lots now I would be interested in a lot of spoons with pink or purple on them. I am mostly interested in medium size but the large size will be OK. you can message me here with what you have or email me at [email protected]. if I buy I can pay with PayPal and send extra to cover fees or mail you a check.
  24. I have the slow-speed reels and they work just fine for me. the only real advantage I see with the high-speed reels is bringing them in to check lines or change lures. with a fish on you reel it in at the fish's speed and not the reel speed. but for running wire out 300' or 350' they would be priceless for checking or changing lures. let me add I am a walleye fisherman. but for salmon making a run at the boat the high-speed is the only way to go.
  25. the only thing I can add is to go with the wind whenever possible. I don't have or use a tolling motor. I used my main motor for years but finally got a 9.9 4-stroke kicker. either way going with the wind makes it so much easier to control the boat and speed. I probably troll with the wind 90% of the time. you won't run your trolling motor nearly as hard giving you more time on the water. the waves and wind do most of the work so you can get away with running the motor on a lower setting saving your battery.
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