Looking for a Aluminum boat, 16-17ft, non-tiller, hopefully made after 2000, trying to stay between 5-10k, let me know what you have in the Rochester area!
justin
Quick 2 part question:
1- does the screen work if the probe isn’t in the water?
2- if my screen isn’t working can I still use the Bluetooth app?
Justin
Check to see if you have 12v at the Solenoid if so jump the solenoid with a pair of pliers, if the engine turns over you know its the solenoid. If the engine doesn't turn over, turn the key and see if you get 12v at the starter, if so make sure the ground is good from the block to the negative on the battery. Sometime ill us a jumper cable from the block to the negative side of the battery just to rule out a bag ground. If none of that work you will have to bench test the starter.
Does anyone know where I can find a reasonably priced AC/DC Fridge? I fried my board on my Norcold DE-704 and everything I'm finding in $1000 + which seems cray for a 3.2 cubic foot refrigerator.
Justin
Here are my thoughts, too many people look at the age of the boat to decide the value of the boat. I don't think that is the case. A couple of years ago I was looking for a boat between 10k and 50k. I know that seems strange however it was the choice between paying cash or taking out a separate mortgage. After lots, and I mean lots of looking I went for something 15k, reason being is that 15 year old boats have the exact same issues and 40 year old boats (stringers, engine hours...). Now I have a 1978 Silverton that was inexpensive, reliable and makes me happy. That being said, when you are looking at the 10 to 15k price range, any year, you need to be able to do your own work. A couple of things to look for:
1. Talk to the owner, does he love the boat? or Is he glad to get rid of it?
2. Look at the bilge, if its dirty walk away, a good owner cleans the bilge, a bad owner doesn't
3. Don't be shy of salt water, the little animals in fresh water cause stringer rot , so you don't have to be as concerned with rot in salt water, plus it is pretty easy to change the heat exchanger. I would stay away from salt water if it raw water cooled.
4. Stick with a outboard or inboard, I/O's have a lot of maintenance (I've had two, every time I've had to put a bunch of money into a boat it because its I/O)
Justin