jth21usa

Check to see if you have 12v at the Solenoid if so jump the solenoid with a pair of pliers, if the engine turns over you know its the solenoid. If the engine doesn't turn over, turn the key and see if you get 12v at the starter, if so make sure the ground is good from the block to the negative on the battery. Sometime ill us a jumper cable from the block to the negative side of the battery just to rule out a bag ground. If none of that work you will have to bench test the starter.

Does anyone know where I can find a reasonably priced AC/DC Fridge? I fried my board on my Norcold DE-704 and everything I'm finding in $1000 + which seems cray for a 3.2 cubic foot refrigerator. Justin

Here are my thoughts, too many people look at the age of the boat to decide the value of the boat. I don't think that is the case. A couple of years ago I was looking for a boat between 10k and 50k. I know that seems strange however it was the choice between paying cash or taking out a separate mortgage. After lots, and I mean lots of looking I went for something 15k, reason being is that 15 year old boats have the exact same issues and 40 year old boats (stringers, engine hours...). Now I have a 1978 Silverton that was inexpensive, reliable and makes me happy. That being said, when you are looking at the 10 to 15k price range, any year, you need to be able to do your own work. A couple of things to look for: 1. Talk to the owner, does he love the boat? or Is he glad to get rid of it? 2. Look at the bilge, if its dirty walk away, a good owner cleans the bilge, a bad owner doesn't 3. Don't be shy of salt water, the little animals in fresh water cause stringer rot , so you don't have to be as concerned with rot in salt water, plus it is pretty easy to change the heat exchanger. I would stay away from salt water if it raw water cooled. 4. Stick with a outboard or inboard, I/O's have a lot of maintenance (I've had two, every time I've had to put a bunch of money into a boat it because its I/O) Justin

How’s the water depth getting out of Braddocks now?

Got out last night. Fished from 160 to 210, depth. No real pattern besides we didn’t move a Flasher and Fly all night, only spoons. 2 on a 300 copper (including 24lb, and a nice steelhead). 3 on downriggers from 100 to 60 feet down. Strange bite, down temp was 61 degrees. 5 for 10 in 2.5 hrs. No idea why the photo is upside down...

I think I’m changing out to fish this weekend, I’ve never had a issue with them. Anyone want to by 3 12lb downrigger weights, they may tangle? Cheap!

It’s pretty standard set up

Mostly my rigger lines.

Over the winter I switched from 3 random downrigger weights to the photo below. I also switched from Cannon to Black releases. I can't seem to drop these without being tangled in the spread. I currently have 3 Scotties, 10.5 beam and this has never been a issue before. Before I go and spend a bunch of money on new weights any have a tricks or tips to get these to spread different?

That seems hard, do you know anyone local?

Flybridge, 31 foot, above the rail, fiberglass. Thanks

I’ve got two cranks I want out of the boat house $75 for both. Pm me if interested.

Does anyone know someone who paints boats in or around Rochester? Justin

Thanks for the input, I don’t mean new, I think the term is re-manufactured. I really don’t want to change the hp because that will mean repropping the boat. Absolutely no hurry, the boat runs as expected.

First both my engines are fine, Chrysler 318's, however 40 years old. The questions is, if I was going to pull them would I get them rebuilt or buy new engines (about $3600 for both). Does anyone have good or bad experiences with putting in new engines compared with taking them to a machine shop to be rebuilt. Currently $3600 seems pretty reasonable for re-manufactured engines. Or if they never break don't fix them is another option (keep in mind I want to travel with the boat so the hours per year are going up). Justin