EKoselny

These are a couple that I use: http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/zone/gtlakes/bufmz.htm https://graphical.weather.gov/sectors/bufMarineWeek.php

I did mine a few years ago, it not that difficult. Replacing the cable should not affect the auto stop at all. After you unscrew the side plate the old cable is connected with spade terminals. I cant remember if the new cable came with spade ends or if I had to buy them and crimp them on. I think you have to drill out the hole in the housing a little bigger for the new cable to fit in. There is a bushing that comes with the cable that will secure the cable into this hole. When I installed mine I remember that new cable was still too thick to fit into this bushing so I just used a utility knife to carefully cut a small notch in the cable jacket to fit it in. When you put to the side cover on you dont want to use normal silicone, there is some chemical in it that does not play nice with the electronics. I am pretty sure I just used the GE Silicon 2 that is sold at Home Depot because this does not contain that particular chemical.

I have a bass boat that had some pretty bad oxidation going on. I tried a couple of the oxidation removers that are available at West Marine and they did not do much to help it. I looked around online and found stuff called Buff Magic and decided to give it a try. I bought a cheap variable speed polisher from Harbor Freight and followed the directions from a couple of videos that I watched. I was very pleased with how this stuff took most of the oxidation off, even after a single use. I wound up doing two passes over the whole boat and then a couple coats of the Buff Magic wax product. I have to say the boat looks pretty good now. I am definitely happy that I tried this stuff. http://shurhold.com/buff-magic/ I bought in on Amazon, it was a little cheaper.

Since Moor stopped making the Subtroll this is the company that is now selling all Moor parts: http://www.esgdirect.com/trolling.html

Check the RCA connector between the antenna and the cable that goes to the display. The RCA connectors that come with the unit tend to rust pretty easy and you will loose a lot of your signal with rusty connections. I replaced the cable on mine with one that has nice gold plated connectors and I also cut off and replaced the one on the antenna side as well.

How do you burp the fish? Do you mean use a needle to bleed the air out of its swim bladder, or can you just force the air out somehow?

Henchens Marina in Henderson Harbor has a lot of Hammerheads, dont think they have any Gambler rigs though. They do sell some individual spin-n-glo's though.

I fished Sandy from 9:00 till 1:00 today and the best fishing was in about 140' of water. We marked some fish all the way out to 250' but all our bites were at 140. Best rig was a FLT pro-troll flasher with a green fly. Flasher was a white blade with some UV tape on one side and some green and black painted on the other. 2-kings, 2-steelies, one laker, two dropped fish.

You said its powered up so I assume the display is showing the decimal point in the temperature display? Try pulling apart the RCA connector from the antenna to the cable that connects to the head end. Make sure the connection is good. I don't know how much other trouble shooting you can really do while on the water.

I had one doing the same thing last year and I wound up having to replace the drive gear as well. It was not hard to take it apart to inspect the gear. I got a replacement from fish307 as well.

Try Minion from this site, he had some great looking teaser rigs for sale in the classifieds.

another option to get to NOAA charts http://www.charts.noaa.gov/InteractiveCatalog/nrnc.shtml

I dont think it is any time too soon. I dont believe they have broken ground on anything in that development yet. Bass Pro website does not even mention a date yet.

Power Pro Super 8 Slick or Berkeley Nanofil are both great for casting,

I have had to splice in a new 9v battery clip in my probe a couple years ago. The wires on the old one had corroded and were not connected to the battery clip any more. Did you try spinning the wheel to wake the unit up or to see if that made the needle move? I don't know for sure if you have to use a only one of the connection points on the probe and not the other, try connecting your rigger cable to the other side of the probe. I dont have any sort of ground wire to water... just the +/- from the battery and mine works. Do you know anyone else who has a unit that you can borrow their probe or head unit?