sherman brown

that's what I have on my Big Jon riggers and with 13# weights they only worked a short when 1 stopped kicking off then a short time later the other one stopped shutting off and that type of autostop is what i was looking to get away from.

I still think a good trolling motor would do a better job pulling the bow back on course than trying to push the boat from the back. but then I never troll into the waves in rough water, I troll with the waves so you have more control over the waves. once a few years back while fishing alone and using my Mercruiser motor and outdrive in some good waves trolling with the waves without any kind of autopilot I tied a 6v flashlight to the bottom of the steering wheel to keep it from turning free and it worked 98% of the time I was fishing. the flashlight would go up when the boat tried turning then it would come back down keeping the boat straight. but it did go over the top a few times then I had to turn the wheel back to straighten the boat manually.

the cannon ratcheting rod holders are my choice for running lite bite slide divers for walleye on Erie's central basin. I switched to traxstech holders because they have 17 adjustments up and down but I went back to cannon because they set with one hand. the others it takes both hands to set them down. hodgesmarine.com has cannon rod holders at a fair price but you may find them cheaper by doing a web search for them. cisco tracks with canon ratcheting holders are the ones I use. and for me, they are the most fisherman-friendly holders on the market at this time. but I did like everything about the Traxsteck except having to use both hands to set it down.

if you have a trolling motor on the bow that has autopilot built in it will do a much better job of boat control pulling the boat rather than pushing it. plus all the kicker does is power the boat forward and the trolling motor steers it. the t/m will give a much better response steering than a kicker.

beside the main motor would be the way to go if it fits and turns as it should. if it doesn't fit the next best option is to get a mount that lifts by hand so it's out of the water for running. there are tons of them out there but all are not great mounts. go to amazon and search for kicker outboard mounts and on eBay. you will find one that will work for you. panther makes a good one but they are pricy., there are way better steering connectors than the panther but if you want a panther steering kit I have one brand net that I bought off here when he had it listed as an EZ steer, but I will take 25.00 for the panther steering kit shipped to your door.

do these have some type of auto stops on them? how does the auto stop work on these? would you be willing to ship at my cost?

pm sent on lot 1 that I want them. as soon as I get the total with shipping and how he wants paid I will pay him.

you might also want to check out the traxstech swivel track mounts. I'm not just sure what lengths they have but I used a set of the 4" rise with a set of Big Jon electric riggers mounted on my tracks and they worked beautifully.

if outwest has one I'm sure he will give you a fair deal. he is one of the most giving people I know or has known in my 71 yrs. I was on OGF with him and I made a trip to Erie and forgot my downriggers at home. he contacted me by pm and he lived in the area I fish and offered to loan me a set of riggers. I went to his home and borrowed 2 electric Big Jon riggers with 3' booms traxstech swivel basis for using them in my tracks. I made a great friend that day and I consider him to be one of the very few people I call one of my best friends ever. he will treat you right.

if I could pick my 10 I would buy a lot. but getting 10 spoons that may only have a few that I would ever use for walleye on Erie. so I wish you luck selling them all soon. I would like to have the top 2 and 4th on the left then the 2nd and 4th from the top on the right in lot 1. lot 3 the 4th one from the left in the top row and the last 1 on the right in the bottom row. 2nd and 4th down on the left row then 2 down right row lot 4. this would top out the 10 I would choose.

deep woods off works great for us. I keep a spray can onboard at all times.

if nobody can help you on here try eBay and see what they may have. i have bought a couple and a couple of motor doghouses for a Mercruiser 5.7 motor off eBay. shipping was a little high but well worth it after getting a fair price on them.

Most old hoses have an inner layer that can separate and clog the line. on my Mercruiser, it ran ok at low rpm but when I tried going faster it just wouldn't go. then it sat for a couple of years and I tried starting it but it wouldn't start. so, I got my inline cheap electric fuel pump out and hooked to the line going to the tank but didn't get gas. I had taken the line loose at the fuel/water separator and tried sucking gas through with no luck then I tried blowing back to the stand but again no luck. I got on amazon and ordered a new below deck hose that ethanol won't hurt as I had been using ethanol gas as nonethanol gas isn't available anywhere near me that I know of. and replaced the line from the tank to the motor. from that point, I had no more problems getting gas to the motor. i pumped the old gas out as best I could and filled the tank with fresh gas and went to Erie. it started out running great but going down the lake it took spells of running very rough to the point it almost died. but it only lasted for a short time and then started running great again but then it would start running rough again. we were on our 3rd tank before it stopped doing this. I think it was just the old gas left in the tank that didn't get pumped out. my point is to try running a new line off the tank to see if the line is causing the problem. and once you get the gas going through the line and empty the tank take a hose and go down the sending unit hole or the pickup hole and go to the lowest part of the tank and try to get any remaining old gas out of the tank.

what prop are you going to start with? you will get much better all around performance with a 4 blade prop. I think I would start with a rev 4 17p but if you don't want to pay for new check them out on eBay to see if they might have a like new used one for about half price. they also have a ton of other 4 blade props at great prices. a 4 blade will give you a so much better hole shot, better handling in choppy water and in turns, and lets you stay on plane a few MPH slower than a 3 blade. the only drawback is you will usually lose a couple of MPH on the top end. but the trade off is well worth the loss on the top end. one prop I like is the Apollo 4 blade prop for a lot less money. I believe any of the 4 blade props will work if they use a hub kit just using a Yamaha hub kit. but I would make sure the prop will work before I bought it. I would go to eBay and do a search for 4 blade ss or aluminum propeller and see what comes up. if you go new i would try to find a prop shop that will let you try a prop then return it for another pitch if that one isn't what you want.