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sherman brown

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Everything posted by sherman brown

  1. I went to eBay and bought some micro barrel swivels small enough to work and then attached it with the haywire twist knot then attached my line with the improved clinch knot with about 4 extra twists to prevent it from slipping. I had braid backing that I attached the same then attached braid on top and used a fluro leader attached to the end of my braid with a double uni knot.
  2. have you tried going to a lower pitch 4 or 5 blade prop? I had a 21' cobia glass boat with a 350 315 HP and a 19p 3 blade that had a problem getting up when loaded for Erie. I tried a 19p high five 5 blade which was awesome getting up. then I got a great buy on a 17p high 5 and it was a dream prop. we now have a 26' sylvan with a 350 280 HP with an elephant ear prop but not sure about the pitch but I think it is maybe a 16p. if you message me I will check the pitch and let you know. but if you try going 2 pitches lower than what you have now with a high 5 it will give you so much more power on bottom end that it will just amaze you. when I switched to the 19p high 5 it was like I went to another boat. all my props were bought on eBay used for less than half of what a new one cost. but both these boats had Mercruiser outdrives. do you have outdrives or is yours an inboard? if you have an inboard the only thing that may help is trying a lower pitch prop. the only other thing is to check and see if the 5.7 can be replaced with a larger stronger engine. but I would check on having the 5.7 built with a lot more power.
  3. it's no wonder it sold. that is a great price for any 15hp 4 stroke. but I didn't see the year of the motor.
  4. didn't have a problem myself. just clicked on the tab then when the tab came up in the right corner of my screen i clicked on open.
  5. check the main fuse located under the cowling.
  6. you might try editing your post and just delete what you want.
  7. I don't know if this helps or not but I put a 13 1/4X17p high five prop on my mercruiser in a 21' Cobia boat. it had so much better hole shot handled so much better in rough water and in turnes. i would never put a 3 blade prop back on my boat. they are SS and cost over 500.00 new but you can usually find a used one in great like new condition for under 300.00 on eBay. I have been buying from them for the last 20 years and all the props I have bought used were as described. if anything you buy isn't as described you can file a dispute and get your money back. but even if you don't want the high five you can probably find the prop you want for a lot less money getting a used prop off eBay.
  8. if your RPMs are going up but the boat isn't going faster it's a good bet the hub is bad. i can't think of any other reason that would account for this. I would think if it was the lower unit you could hear the gears grinding. the 1st thing I would do is put my spare prop on if I had one and see what it did. if you don't have a spare I would be getting one. but you can take it or ship it to a prop shop and have them check it and replace it if the hub is bad. if it has a flo torx hub kit you can tell if the corners are rounded off. if it's bad just get a new kit and replace the square insert.
  9. i believe you can still get mounts at Cabelas. the last time i checked on a 4 pack of these holders they were much more than the 40.00 he is asking.
  10. yeah, just silicone will last longer than the pump in most installations. i used it to block a couple of larger holes in my transom and it was still good and flexible after about 10 years.
  11. 4200 would work but a bit harder to remove. I would just use 100% silicone for that job. whatever you do don't use 5200 as it is more of a permanent application.
  12. not that I'm aware of. do you have an outboard or outdrive? it's really easy if it's an outboard. they make several connector rods to connect an outboard to outboard. some are made with threads on the ends so you can cut them to the length if needed you can bend them for a better fit. just do a search for kicker steering kits. or you can check on eBay or Amazon. I even have a brand new Panther steering kit you can have for 22.00 plus shipping, as for steering for an outdrive to the kicker is a little different. I use an EZ steer kit that has a connector that straps to the kicker and another one that bolts on the outdrive. you want to set the kicker straight and the outdrive straight then measure the distance between the connectors. my rod fully closed was about 1 1/2" short so I turned the clamp on the kicker just enough to fit. but i could have opened the shaft on the rod and matched it up. but i wanted to start with it closed. once you measure get a kit with the fully closed rod as close to that distance as possible without being to long to fit. as long as it's close you will be good to go. it can be a little shorter but not longer. I use a Panther electric tilt I bought off FB marketplace for 300.00 and I already had the spacer that's also a Panther spacer. with a 3" spacer in front of it so when I tilt the kicker will tilt up and not hit the boat. does your kicker have power tilt? if not you might think about getting the Panther electric tilt for it. with the EZ steer, you can tilt either motor or outdrive up with it still connected without any problems. as for the motor, a Honda makes a great motor that should last for years. does it have electric start which will make it much easier to start than a rope start. but before you buy make sure it runs. you can use a set of muffs on a garden hose. you want to open the water all the way up just to make sure it gets enough water while running. it doesn't even come close to the pressure you get running down the lake. make sure water comes out of the pee hole in a good stream. if the stream is weak or not at all take a short piece of .65 to .95 weedeater line and work it in and out of the pee hole line with the motor running. if it stops and doesn't want to go in it's probably blocked. just keep hitting it with the line with the motor running and it should give. if it's open you will probably need a new impeller installed. you should be able to get your serial number and get a Honda dealer to get the year for you.
  13. I've been using the Chamberline releases for a few years now and would never use any of the other types of releases on the market at this time. but i bought some of the stackers but never got around to actually using them but I did check them out dry fishing and will say I liked the way they are made. if I ever use Stakers you can bet the Chamberlain will be my first choice.
  14. I sure hope you have power tilt on your motor and they allow enough length for you to tilt the motor all the way up without hitting the boat. we use a Panther power tilt unit I bought off FB marketplace with the 3" Panther spacer and the motor still comes into contact with the boat before it gets tilted all the way up. but it is high enough it's out of the water while running fast.
  15. first, look at Cisco tracks as they are just as good as any but they cost much less. if you are going to use your riggers in the tracks it's best to bolt all the way through and use a backer even if it's just fender washers. get tracks as long as they will fit on your boat. it's much better to have too much tack than to be 2" too short. you can use your riggers on the back and ever have a net holder in front.
  16. for those types of repairs, I cut up cheesecloth in about 1/4" pieces into my fiberglass resin and stirred it up together then brushed it onto the damaged area about 1/4" thick as smooth as possible and allowed it to dry. after drying I sanded it smooth and used a spray can and painted it. another way is to apply your fiberglass resin to the boat and apply your cheesecloth then apply another coating of resin and apply another piece of cheesecloth about 1" smaller than the first piece. I would apply 4 layers of cheesecloth and allow it to dry then sand and paint.
  17. if you have a great hole shot but want a little more speed you might try going up 2 degrees in pitch. but this will change your hole shot and might give you 2 or 3 mph. if it's running that close to max hp you will gain some RPMs and gain speed. myself, I wouldn't think about changing anything unless your hole shot is very poor then I would go with a rev-4 4 blade prop.
  18. if you don't find any here ( and you probably won't. ) do a search for Cisco tracks. they are a lot less money than cannon and work great and I think they look better. the tracks are all the same size as the major brands, cannon, traxstech, Berts, and maybe more of the other brands. I recommend getting the longest tracks that will fit on your boat. that leaves room for net holders and moving your holders from place to place. I have 72" on each side of my boat and wouldn't settle for anything less.
  19. I have the Big Jon pro tournament riggers with 12" pedestals then my swivel bases with the slide mounts so I can remove them in an instant. if I was going to mount to a track system then I would use the traxstech 4" risers with the swivel on them.
  20. i bought a new set of Big Jon pro tournament rigger with auto stop. after less that a couple of weekends of use the auto stops stopped working. the switches aren't covered under the warranty. i never did really check to see if the switches were bad or if the 13# weights had caused the cab,le to cut the hole in the bead stop to get so large for the bead to make contact with the switch. now i just use them without auto stop. you lose very little time without auto stop. they do work great and if anything does go wrong they have great customer service. one with the short piece booms can be used at 1' 2' 3' or 4'. but the shorter booms do make it much easier to hook the line up to the cable. if you get a ball retriever the Traxsteck pully retriever kit is the best one in my opinion. they use to sell them for 2 riggers for about what 1 kit cost now. you can go to Traxstech.com to check them out. another good thing about them is you can get a set of slide mounts that lets you just slide them out to remove them from the boat. cannon will work with the extendable booms.
  21. I don't need any more now but I used the same weights and they have much less blowback than round type weights. I only run 2 riggers and what I like most is that I can bend the fins and get them to run farther out to the side giving me a lot more space between the 2 weights. oh yeah, I forgot to mention 70.00 for a pair is like getting one free and more. these can be shipped in a flat priority box for under 20.00.
  22. you want to be sure to wash the trailer as well as the boat with lots and lots of fresh water. then put a set of good muffs that puts water in from both sides and run the motor until it gets warmed up so it washes the whole system out. and don't be afraid to open the water up on high. i have always used high pressure on the hose. it doesn't get near the pressure as running down the lake at WOT.
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