sherman brown

these are the best ratcheting holders in my opinion because of the one hand operation. you can adjust the up and down with one hand if you have your fishing rod in the other hand. 

your price of 90.00 for new holders is a great price. the best price I know of for the same holder is 106.00 plus change and then add the tax so you save over 20.00 on each one you buy. I am happy with the single axis I have.

you did an absolutely beautiful job on your boat.

I started my hunting by hunting squirrels and rabbits when I was about 6 to 8 years old with my oldest brother's octagon barrel pump 22 with the pump not working so I used it as a single shot.

A few years later I moved up to a 12 gauge shotgun which I used for many years for small game mostly for rabbits in Indiana and when I often visited Tennessee.

I was in the Marine Corps from 72 until 76 and didn't do any game hunting during that time.

After I came home, I bought an 1100 Remington autoloader and used it for small game again, but I was more interested in fishing, which included salmon fishing on Lake Michigan trolling. I mostly fished for them on Manistee Lake in the fall.

In 1980 my older brother found a Savage 16 gauge autoloader in a trash can with the barrel bent looking like someone had wrapped it around a tree. It did have a tendency to jam. hew used a door to straighten the barrel. it had a full choke but I shot slugs through it and it was as true as any gun I ever shot. I started deer hunting that fall and got my first deer on the morning of the second day of my first time deer hunting.

I bought a CVA 50 caliber muzzleloader kit after the gun season I had it put together and the metal was put through a black oxide which made it a smooth black then I coated the wood with a beautiful walnut stain then used a spray on clear sealant on it the gun turned out to be a beautiful gun. I used it to hunt 1 weekend that year. the 2nd year I didn't score in gun season and when muzzleloader season came in I was hunting with my muzzleloader but when a big doe was 19 steps away the cap didn't fire it was wet and filled the nipple full of crap. by the time I got the nipple cleaned and was putting another cap on they took off.

I had a Ruger 10-22 I wasn't using and traded it for a recurve bow at a flea market so year three I hunted bow season and got a small doe. then gun season I got a buck and the muzzleloader season I got a doe,

when they came out with the inline muzzleloaders I bought a White brand that used musket caps. but later came out with a conversion kit to use 209 shotgun primers. since then I have owned several autoloader shotguns for deer hunting and several different muzzleloaders and I've taken at least I deer for the next 25+ years but a lot of those years I took doe's with my muzzleloaders. I ended up with a Thompson Center encore that has taken many deer. I bought another Thompson Center gun for my youngest son. a few years ago I bought a new CVA 45 caliber long-range accura but I haven't taken a deer with it yet.

my oldest granddaughter wanted to hunt with me so a couple of years ago I took her with my encore. but I was trying to remove the hammer tang to move to the right side of the hammer after me shooting left-handed it didn't work for her and I broke the hammer and haven't been able to find one. so I dug out the one my son no longer uses and gave it to her.

I got it bad but not that bad. I opened the drains on the block and noticed it was draining slowly but I figured the water had already drained out the other side. come spring and after I started it and ran long enough to open the thermostat water was gushing out the side of the motor. I just knew I had a cracked block but the freeze plugs did their job. so this lesson was cheap at replacing the freeze plugs and always making sure the drains are open and not clogged. when I cleaned the drain that didn't drain I removed lots of sand. my youngest son ran over a sand bar that summer and filled the block with sand.

tilting my motor down for the winter and stored outside most of my life is all I ever done and as stated above, I never had a problem. outboard motors are designed to drain all the water out when the motor is tilted down 2 stroke and 4 stroke alike.

how many in a smaller lot were you thinking? how much for 20 of the 2" tots?

On 12/8/2024 at 3:43 PM, Jjwbny said:

Brand new shark USA 20lb glow . Never used , has small chip in glow paint as seen In picture . 
pick up in batavia or meet in Rochester or Buffalo . $80

just an FYI but you can ship this weight with priority mail with USPS for not much money. they don't price by weight but the size of the package up to 70# costs the same as 1# in the same size box. you could probably ship for 15 to 20 bucks at the buyer's expense.

for running wire line on Erie for walleye, the Convector 30s are hard to beat. I used the Diawa Sealine sg17lca  and the accudepth plus 17s for years and they had a great service life. when I upgraded the ACD plus reels I went with the newer sealine sg17lc3b reels and still use them. when I started having issues with the old LCA reels and Tuna Tom wasn't working on them anymore I upgraded to the Coldwater 203 reels but haven't been using them long enough to be able to recommend them for long term use. but they are the smoothest reels of any I have used. but for a mid range reel, I think they fill the bill.

I run 3 lite bite slide divers on each side but don't use them as slide divers. I fish with a lot of inexperienced people and kept having a problem getting the divers put out on the wrong side of the boat. for me, the best solution was using one brand reel on one side of my boat and another brand on the other side.

when I started doing this I used the silver accudepth plus on one side and the black sealines on the other side. when I ran across a great deal on the sealine sg17lc3b reels I upgraded the ACD plus reels that were still working great but they were getting on in years. the metal ring on the lc3b reels was a bright gold which stood out over the older LCA reels. and with all the great reviews on the coldwater reels that's the way I went. I would have been happy to have gone with the lc3b reels but then they would look like the lc3b reels I was already using. and I don't regret getting the coldwater's yet.

I recommend the Daiwa wilderness trolling rods I got from Fish USA for 20 bucks but for salmon, I recommend the 8' medium rods. for walleye, the med/lt works best. you can use these for divers, or boards, but for your riggers, I recommend the Daiwa ugly stick GX2 medium action. They have enough flex for loading them up on the riggers but still have the backbone for fighting kings.

acamdemy.com is where i get a lot of my gear from.

It's not that hard once you get used to twisting the line. I started using the Chamberlain releases a few years ago, and they are set the same way as the Blacks. I just fold the line, place my first two fingers in, and start turning my hand until I have 7 or 8 twists with a medium-sized loop that goes on the release pin. now I don't even have to think about what I'm doing. I like the Chamberlain best because of the line tension adjustment. but I use mine for walleye on the central basin of Erie at Geneva Ohio.

13 hours ago, Hawkeye50 said:

I’ll check shipping tomorrow and let you know

can you please measure them across the top?

what size are your bags?

I would need them shipped to Muncie IN. Can you get an idea of what shipping would cost me?

7 hours ago, johnpn said:

Updated price $600

I can't believe someone hasn't bought these. For anyone thinking about switching to ratcheting holders, this offer would save a lot of money. these are great holders with 17 up and down adjustments which I loved but stuck with the cannon's I already had that were already paid for. but I love the 17 adjustments on these. The Cannon has 1 hand operation but only has 6 up and down settings. with new traxstech holders costing around 150.00 and then another 200.00+ for the 2 tracks you're talking at least 1100.00 plus tax for the same thing you have for 600.00. GO FIGURE. if I had an extra 600.00 I would buy these in a New York Minute.

good luck with you're sale. it makes me want to cry! I fish walleye on Erie and run 3 divers per side and ratcheting holders are worth their weight in gold.

On 10/23/2024 at 6:20 AM, Pete Collin said:

Hello All,

I have an odd dilemma with my main motor.  I like to fog the cylinders for the winter.  But one of the spark plugs (the bottom one) is located in a space where it is incredibly tough to get a wrench down there.  All I could manage was to get a crescent wrench in the tight space and do little 1/8 turns at a time.  First time I actually broke the ceramic part of the plug.  Was never sure if I tightened the replacement properly.  Is there some special Evinrude wrench for this task?

Pete

the plug should be a 5/8 or a 13/16 but you could see what size the other plugs are. once you know the correct size go on eBay and search for an EL ratchet wrench of the size you need. but you may end up needing to buy a full set that has the size you need. but you need to know the length of the wrench to know if it's long enough to reach the plug. if the end sticks up close to the top of the cowling you can always use a short piece of pipe over the wrench. i did find a few sets with the 5/8 and 13/16 in the set search for 115590764339 or 146164212490 or do a search for sae flex head long ratchet wrench set. i didn't see the length but they are longer than the standard length wrenches.,

ttt

I want lot 10 and need it shipped to Muncie In. 47302. do you do PayPal or can I mail you a check? you can message me with the total with shipping. and your PP info or your address. then I can give you my address and pay you.

I have 5 sheer pins and 1 keeper pin for a Cabela's trolling plate for free plus shipping.

I have a very nice looking and running 02 9.9 Merc 4 stroke, electric start, 20" shaft, tiller, with very limited use. the man I bought it from had bought it for him and his dad to use. but shortly after he bought it his dad passed away and he sold the boat but kept the motor stored in his garage thinking he might buy another boat later but after a few more years he hadn't had any interest in boating without his dad.

I will let this motor go for 1100.00 plus shipping or pickup in Muncie IN.

4 Penn 330 GTI non-lc reels that will hold 360 yards of 30 mono and would work great for lead core. 110.00 each shipped! these are in like new condition and used very little.

4 brand new Zebco 33 classic reels for 45.00 shipped.

19p high 5 prop 215.00 shipped. this is a wonderful prop for running in rough water or playing in the water but has many positive features. it will improve your hole shot immensely plus better handling in rough water.

A Panther electric tilt for your kicker 400.00 shipped. I use one myself and it is great. I bought the other one for a spare but at 73 I may not ever need it. 

inline 6 mercury motors 90 HP TO 150 HP lower unit with new water pump installed only 300.00 plus shipping.

power tilt unit for any of the inline 6 mercury motors 90 HP to 150 HP 250.00 with a mounting bracket or 200.00 without a bracket which you can usually get one off eBay. shipped.

an older 74 Merc 150 HP with everything to make it run. was running great when pulled and stored. 250.00 plus shipping. comes with controls. you can sell the lower unit for 300.00+ and the controls run about 250.00 on eBay. comes with either a 125 HP or 135 HP motor for parts except the lower unit and distributor which is on the 150 HP motor.

will add 3 rotary steering cables later after I measure them.

PICK UP IN MUNCIE INDIANA OR PAY FOR SHIPPING UNLESS ITS INCLUDED IN MY PRICE.

16 hours ago, Bozeman Bob said:

  The risers that I have purchased in the last few years do not have drain plugs . The old ones did have them .  I have never had to replace the exhaust manifold itself , which usually have petcocks on the bottom of them . 

I always open those petcocks on my exhaust manifolds. never had to replace the manifolds myself. Have a great winter so you can go get them come spring.

if I ever decided to use the kit I would go to the trouble to drain the block and the exhaust manifolds first then add the antifreeze. most of the comments say they drain the block but no one mentioned draining the exhaust manifolds. or maybe the newer boats doesn't have the petcocks at the rear of the exhaust manifolds.

5 hours ago, rolmops said:

Some of you may have bought a winterizing kit that uses a 5 gallon tank in order to replace all water in the block with rv antifreeze. You are supposed to warm up the engine until the thermostat opens up and then channel the antifreeze into the engine by shutting off water and running the anti freeze into the block.

This is a terrible idea. When the cold antifreeze hits the thermostat it will close the thermostat very soon afterwards and although a bit of antifreeze will indeed get into the block (usually enough to make the color of the cooling water change to pink) it will not totally replace the water in the block and the chance of this mix freezing over and bursting the manifolds or the block is quite high.

Marinas that use this system usually use the antifreeze in a closed system and the stuff warms up . This keeps the thermostat open and the system will work well. That would mean that you will have to fill a barrel with the AF in your back yard and run the system that way.

It is just better to drain all the water and make sure it is all out . You may even want to use air pressure to make sure.

I do have a question. why would the cold antifreeze close the thermostat and not the cold water from a hose to your muffs?

I have never done anything other than open the petcocks on each side of the block and manifolds. I did it this way for 25+ years when I owned a Mercruiser.  I did remove the water hoses that runs down each side under the motor and the hoses going to my thermostat housing. and not once did I worry about it freezing and it worked every year but 1.

ugs saved my motor. and that was the year my freeze plugs saved my motor. sand had settled in the pipe and stopped it up and all the water didn't drain out of that side. LESSON LEARNED, I removed the pipe and started using a petcock only even though it was a bi*** to get to and open.

you don't have any prices. will you ship at the buyer's expense? are you selling these in lots or are you willing to break them up? if you have a couple of 6.0' to 7.0' in light action I think I would be interested if the price and shipping cost isn't too much.

I have bought a couple of car motors with no complaints from eBay. eBay offers your money back if anything is not as described. but you want to be ready to install the motor and water test it when you buy. plus if you use PayPal you can file a dispute with them if the seller is doing a scam i  have been buying motors and parts for my boats for the last 20+ years off eBay, and only had to send a couple of things back for a full refund with no problems. 

I have been buying used props in like new condition for half price or less and have been very satisfied with ever one I've bought. you might find what you need at a good price.

11 hours ago, Bozeman Bob said:

You can buy a 350 GM motor , out of a donor boat or Michiganmotorz.com ( 3500 ,long block ) might have to swap out the flywheel and coupler . Everything else should bolt up , exhaust manifolds , distributer , alternator, starter motor ,carb as long as the " new " motor is a 88 or newer . 

they switched the flywheel in 86 I believe. I had a new silver package 350 Vortec from Michiganmotorz.com installed in my 86 Cobia in 2010 and didn't have to change the flywheel. you can get anything from a rebuilt short block to a complete setup. just make sure to buy an OMC motor and not a Mercruiser.

On 9/27/2024 at 9:54 AM, Mikeyman104 said:

I was up in Cape a couple of weeks ago pulling worm harnesses on bottom bouncers and couldn't keep the goby's off. As soon as the weight hit the bottom a goby was usually on it. Switched to trolling with stickbaits but no luck. Any tips for keeping the worm harnesses free of gobys or just have to deal with them? 

just my 2 cents is to not fish so deep. most fish are suspended above the bottom. do you have any way to determine how deep you're going? one thing you can do is let out an unbaited rig until it's just bumping bottom, then start letting out baited rigs 10' above the bottom and keep bringing them up 10' at a time until you start catching fish.

gobies are on the bottom and if you are letting your bottom bouncers down until they hit bottom you're asking for trouble.

are you marking fish on your graph? this should tell you what depth the fish are suspended 

On 9/16/2024 at 10:30 AM, sherman brown said:

I just thought I have 4 Penn 330 GTI level wind reels with no counters on them. 125.00 each shipped. these are in like new condition. used for grouper fishing in Fl Intracoastal waters in FT Pierce for a week. 

 

I'm still looking for items I won't be using anymore.

these reels would be great for running lead core,

price drop on the 19p high five to 235 shipped.

9.9 4 stroke Merc price drop 1050.00 plus shipping or pick up in Muncie IN. shipping shouldn't be that much. total would still be a fantastic price for this motor.