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  • Birthday May 6

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    tillsonburg ontario
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  1. Early 90’s 9.9 2 stroke. Works good. Used it lots 2019 for trolling Erie. $900 obo. Can meet. Located in Tillsonburg.
  2. Hopefully you found some answers here. Once i use mine a few times i'll report back. and after a year if i remember
  3. all good guys! any advice is always appreciated. even after the fact. Who knows joe blow in 3 years will be reading this post and learn something for himself!
  4. Funny how i get all these suggestions after I already repaired it and installed it into the boat. But thank you never the less!
  5. it was too big of a crack and too close to the head. also for the price to get it welded vs a new block was too close. $5-600 to get it welded. $1200 for a bare block. $1700 by the time its in the boat. $20 worth of JB weld. $80 worth of gaskets. worth a shot i figure
  6. What i ended up doing is going JB weld. hopefully it holds for a few years when i can afford to replace the engine. i ended up drilling the cracks and V grooving the crack. i did 3 applications of JB weld. Put the engine on a engine stand so i can work on a level surface. first 2 applications were light and forced into the crack. The 3rd application was heavy with drywall tape mesh. (seen it on a forum, figured couldnt hurt too much lol) all put back together and almost installed. just gotta wait for spring to see how it turned out
  7. How did you get the water back out?
  8. I would reccomend cleaning the seams, rivets. and using urethane. Then do a bed liner product. either Rhino or LineX. This urethane is unreal. flexible and will not come off. if you get it on your hand. a month later its still there.
  9. Chances are if your boat has leaked for that amount of time your foam will be water logged. Does it have a hard time getting on plane? tow heavy? just feel heavy in general? That would be my first look. Because if it is waterlogged then theres no point in trying to just fix it on the outside. I would look at gutting it like @sstout I too have done 3 boats. 2 of which were water logged. Couldnt even get the boat on plane. it was sooooo heavy! After you gut it. I would take PRO FORM urethane. They use it to install windshields on vehicles. So you know its uv resistant. I would do every rivet and seam on the inside of the boat. Then create a tunnel for water to flow. with either pipe or ridged foam (not white) and then pour in foam. From the outside I have done the same. Sandblast around the seams and rivets. Be sure not to blast the glue out of the seams where the aluminum overlaps. Then again i would use the urethane. nice beads. smooth out. and paint. I think the Rhino liner is a good idea. I've thought of it. was just never in the budget. And most importantly! cleanliness is key!!! Make sure everything is perfectly clean before you apply any type of glue, sealer, paint ect. you can buy the best stuff on the market and it wont hold if it isnt clean
  10. i'll send you a pm so we dont take up everyone elses feeds! @Sunshine
  11. Thats awsome! one of the modifications i would like to make this winter is the bimini. I find it too far back and too low. For myself its ok. i'm fairly short. But for my company it doesnt work to land a fish with it up. You have to duck under it to get back far enough. I would like to raise it a foot and or move it forward about 1'6". Do you both have inboards or outboards on yours?
  12. Yessir i do agree! super annoying. I tried to polish the boat but the paint was so faded and thin I burnt through right away. So I plan on soda blasting it and painting it in the near future (next few years)
  13. i have the same reels. Not yet used. And am new to the large planer boards. What are the eye guide for?
  14. I've been in contact with Mick @ kraushaar machine shop in Tillsonburg. I would be able to get a brand new short block for $1200 plus shipping. Install new bearings. Old pistons with new rings. new gaskets. Should be under $2000 and a full new engine! So i'm currently exploring that avenue. Thanks for all the advice guys!
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