4426

I think letting us know what your goal depth wise or what you want to achieve would best help us help you. Generally boards should be clipped onto monofilament line(some people do run braid though). Mainline can be copper, weighted steel, lead core, and a leader on top of that. Give us some more specifics I’m sure people can chime in. Also I’m assuming you’re referring to inline boards

Need help with choosing the best 2d transducer for my application! I mainly troll Lake Erie in depths from 20’-120’, occasionally Ontario too but mainly fish with buddies up there. looking for clear picture while trolling and good searching ability while up on plane. These will be hooked into 2 garmin uhd 93sv’s at my dashboard(networked together).  So I’m looking at the following options:
- Garmin GT15M-IH(600w, 85-165kHz chirp, in hull)
- Airmar B117(600w, 50/200kHz traditional, thru hull)
- Garmin GT12M-THF(350w, 85-165kHz chirp, thru hull)
- Airmar B150M(300w, 95-155kHz chirp, thru hull)

Right now I’m thinking my best setup would be the Airmar b117 ran to one unit(widest cone for finding fish), and a gt15m-ih to the other(with y cable and gt30 on that same unit). I’m willing to sacrifice the side and down imaging if one of the other chirp transducers would be a better option than the gt15. Would also consider an Airmar b75m but that would use up a lot of the budget. 

Most Yamahas I’ve dealt with haven’t liked muffs very much, definitely stronger stream with a barrel or tub 

Cisco, if you price it out it may actually beat the prices of some of the other brands. I know my setup would have been about $350 more if I went traxstech. 

For sale or trade is my snowmobile.

2010 ski doo mxz tnt 600

~7700 miles

-has reverse, no electric start 

-track was replaced around ~5500 miles

-carbides and belt replaced within a couple hundred miles 

-carb model(with oil injection), not etec 

Only selling to update/upgrade my boat a little. Have had it about 4 or 5 years now and it’s treated me well for the most part(one bad ground and one bad key in that time frame). Overall very clean for the miles. Would consider most fishing/trolling related trades as well(partial or full). (Tekotas, saltists, fish hawk, etc) 

On 12/30/2023 at 4:19 PM, rolmops said:

If your boat is aluminum it won't work. If it is fiberglass it will. If your boat is molded plastic (very few) I don't know.

The ones that I have seen are all installed in their own little water tank to prevent air interference. You must have enough room to install that little tank where you want your transducer to be. The pro is obviously not drilling holes in your boat. The anti is that your echo will be slightly less than under the hull without any interference. The people at Krenzer Marine in Sodus will be able to give you the best advice for your specific boat.

Fiberglass hull, so I’m under the impression that the in hull only effects how deep of water it’s capable of being used in, not necessarily the clarity or the ability to mark fish. I mainly fish Erie in depths less than 130’ so I’m not worried about losing depth capabilities really 

13 hours ago, pole setter said:

I would suggest getting ahold of Yankee troller on here Richard will steer you in the right direction and probably get you a good deal on a transducer. 

I have he suggested the through hull option but didn’t have much to say about in hull 

So in the spring I’ll be rigging up my boat with Garmin echomaps at the dash. I’m wondering if anyone has experience with in hull transducers. As of right now I plan on using an airmar b117(same as b60 but not angled) but the idea of not cutting a hole in the bottom intrigues me. The in hull I’m looking at is either a   P74 or p79. I believe all these transducers are the same element. Any thoughts or insight is appreciated 

I’ve found it best just to see what your local market(like marketplace, Craigslist, etc) is like and price from that based on similar models and options. BUC value is what some dealers use as well(costs money but seems accurate, had a dealer tell me the value of mine from their subscription). 

Switching to different electronics in my boat so selling these ones. They’ve worked great for me since purchasing them 3 seasons ago. No issues with the units. I no longer have the sun covers for them though. They will come with the original boxes and most of the original paperwork. One has a navionics+ chip and one transducer is included(rv100 transom mount). They were removed from the boat today. Any questions feel free to ask away. They are located in south Dayton ny but I can ship on buyers dime 

Might be able to use bow rail hardware to do the same thing, probably easier to find that

Ttt

Ttt

Lowered price

It’s in the title @Gill-T

Thinking about going a little bigger and more enclosed for the family is the reason for sale. Boat is a sailfish 218cc with a Yamaha 150txrc (two stroke, v6, carb, standard rotation, 25” shaft). Hours are unknown but believed to be less than 1,000. I keep the boat docked in Dunkirk and it has served me well over the last 4 seasons. Has a nice deep v (variable deadrise stepped) hull, basically if you look at the transom the bottom is 24 degrees, middle is 23, and outside is 22 I believe. The transom and stringers are composite so no wood there to worry about. Has a 100 gallon fuel tank. For the asking price I can include the rod holders pictured. For some extra money I can include some rods and other gear too. Open to offers and negotiation. Boat will be detailed prior to sale but will be fished until then. Trades considered for express or walkaround style boats, outboards preferred. Currently the washdown doesn’t work, t top has a bend and cracks down one side but I’ve fished it like that since I owned it(previous owner backed into garage), and the canvas t top ripped earlier this season. Not opposed to repairing any of these issues prior to sale 

runs about 34mph full fishing load

36 light load half fuel 
 

Does anyone make custom trolling flies? Looking to have some tied up that are a little different than the norm 

58 minutes ago, Bozeman Bob said:

I would do a compression test on both motors and compare numbers . Then I would try swapping props . I would verify the tachs with a tachometer as well . Next make sure your throttle cable is moving the motor lever to the end . Other than that I might post this question in Iboats or The Hull Truth as there are more outboard motor people there vs this site . 

We did a compression test last year when we blew a lower unit just to check cannot remember the exact numbers offhand but everything seemed well within spec on engines. There isn’t a cable it’s digital controls. The tachs are on our mercury vessel view screen so I’m not sure why that would be inaccurate either 

48 minutes ago, Shakemsam said:

Has this always been the case? I am not at all familiar with counter rotating props and how this would work....If possible, I would compare both engines rpm,s running separately.  Perhaps the starboard side is over revving a bit due to lack of water. I don't know..just a guess..

 

I rephrased my post a little, one is standard one is counter rotating. And unfortunately cannot plane on one engine so cannot compare one at a time

So we have a fairly custom 31’ aluminum express boat with twin 2012 Mercury verado 300s. We rigged the boat with those motors about 4 years/600 hours ago now but this whole time the port engine has always had a lower WOT(5850rpm vs 6150rpm on starboard). One is standard rotation one is counter. They do have 2150 or so hours on them. I’m just curious what would be causing the one motor to have a lower WOT?? We just went through and did fuel filters, plugs, coils, and oil changes so I’d think we’d have a little jump start on trouble shooting if we looked at this now rather than in the future. We have a vesselview screen with no active codes, that is where we are viewing the rpm data, and the controls are fly by wire/digital.

Which size/model are these?

@Edgar me?

You’re price has gone up since the last time we talked @emtystringer

Looking for some Catalina’s in 25 or 30 size. May be open to other sizes. Willing to pay over PayPal and I’ll cover shipping or local pickup WNY too

What is everyone doing to protect graphite reels from uv damage? Reels like Penn rival/warfare, okuma Magda’s and convectors. I’ve tried a couple things with no luck. Considering just trying to throw some clear coat on them