L&M

Ck your pm's

If that's the case the above mentioned remedies are for a hard pull at the steering wheel & will not correct the issue your having. Does the boat have trim tabs on the transom or not?

22 hours ago, Delons said:

plane trimmed up around 31-32mph boat leans hard to the left

The boat itself leans over to the port or the steering pulls hard to port? 

North access road and launch are now open, but as of now the no wake is still in effect 

Try another radio if you can before you break the bank on things that you possibly don't need or need to do. Just because it says Standard Horizon doesn't mean there's not a bad one or two out there  

12 hours ago, rolmops said:

where?

Here: 

https://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/79627-charter-lodge-and-home-for-sale/?do=findComment&comment=592697

27 minutes ago, cooter dog said:

I drop the lower unit and got to go back into neutral  and reverse took it out today and the same thing happened .is the reverse lock cam the piece that slides in between the forward and reverse gears thanks again Charlie

Ck your pm's

Depending on year, it is probably the "reverse lock cam" binding up. 

9 minutes ago, elrodalonzo said:

MAKE FISHING GREAT AGAIN!  

Explanation:  Don't mix politics & fishing.

Exactly  

On 6/28/2019 at 6:39 AM, lrg355 said:

I am wondering if this is normal to fill any leftover spaces in the out drive up to the reservoir. Any comments before I pull the boat out and start looking for leaks would be appreciated.

Provided you filled it in the conventional way from the bottom until it bled out the top vent, then went ahead & topped off the tank, you shouldn't have lost much more than a few ounces after the first run and any air had a chance to purge. 10 to 12oz indicates a leak somewhere & if your not seeing it externally, pull the drive again & see if there isn't oil in the u-joint bellows. If I had to guess your loosing it thu the upper yoke seal.   

North launch & access road is closed, South launch is open but it's about a 30 minute ride to the channel from there at no wake speed. 

State park in Fair Haven is open too

10 minutes ago, guffins fisherman said:

Stray current is a concern with slipped boats, no matter the hull material. Make sure your sacrificial anodes are up to the task in not only life span, but also the right kind. Most drives come with zinc, but I have researched and found that magnesium anodes are better in freshwater. You can also hang anodes over the edge of the dock to aid in warding off electrolysis of your drive or hull. Take a look around your marina too. If you see wires in the water or on the docks that look worn, or unkempt, address it. If there are boats near you that are plugged into shore power, be aware they may be leaking current too. Some do, some are just fine. Good luck and inspect your drive often. I had a Bravo 3 drive go bad due to electrolysis(and age).

Sent from my moto z3 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

Electrolysis is a very real & common issue for all the above reasons & precautions that Guffins listed above.  I see signs of it on just about every boat that's slipped for the season especially where shore power is in use. Be aware of it & keep an eye on your zinks/magnesium anodes for any signs and you should have no problems. 

If your payin the shippin I'll take it  

magill :   I'm assuming your steering an outboard & not an I/O. If that is the case there are several good options for the cable steer you have with out going the extra expense of hydraulic. As mentioned above Si-tex makes a good basic system utilizing an octopus R wheel drive, your rack & pinion cable will have to be replaced with a rotary style cable to work with the new helm. The Lowrance/Simrad system utilizes the same octopus helm as the Si-tex. If you do decide to go with hydraulic steering stay with the Seastar line over the  Baystar or other after market brands for compatability with add ons later. 

And Chas :  It depends on the system . The octopus is capable of driving some i/o's without the engine running.

On 5/26/2019 at 12:07 AM, jth21usa said:

Or should I be using 10w-30 oil instead of 10w-40?

Stay away from the multi viscosity oils and use the recommended straight weight oil it was intended to use when it was built & you should see a considerable difference in both consumption & pressure. 

Factory recommendations for that era 318/360 is straight 30w in temps above +30* fahrenheit 

Shell Rotella would be my first choice  

I'll eat crow on that one. Some, but not many with the Mercarb two barrel did have a PVC valve system & that's what is on the end of that hose. No need to plug it , replace the valve if you think there is an issue.

What carburetor is on it? It is possible if someone put an automotive Q-Jet on it and utilized the PVC valve & hose, but it is not anything factory. Picture would say a thousand words.

John Mann 

Sodus Pt.

315-871-6400

12 hours ago, sherman brown said:

I think its 4800 to 5000 but I wouldn't want to run that rpm all day. I usually only run about 3500 when cruising.

What Sherman said, just asking for trouble if your running it that hard consistently. If it's turning that high and everything is in order you are under propped ( to low of pitch ) 

WOT early flat tappet cam 5.7L 

 4400 - 4800 RPM's.

Docks are in at the north launch  

7 hours ago, killer_kerry27 said:

I am trying to do this as well. I plan on running the second line to my kicker off my separator with the check valves as well. Will my kicker have an issue pulling from the main fuel tank if the main I/o engine is off? Or will the kicker create its own vacuum to pull and I should not have an issue?


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

The kicker will draw from the main tank, thru the separator & anti siphon valve with no problem. 

ck your pm's

https://www.amazon.com/Scepter-Marine-Brass-Siphon-Valve/dp/B01BNBEF64/ref=asc_df_B01BNBEF64/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094677816&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1031204924829857041&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005656&hvtargid=pla-570810915055&psc=1

or similar , brass is the better option over the aluminum version

https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+anti+siphon+valve&oq=marine+antisiphon+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.18448j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8