jekyll

Be careful using Liquid tape. I've seen it bunch up and destroy antennas on 2 occasions. 

I've owned Cannon SNT, Depth Raider and Fish Hawk X4D. I use Moor a lot on my buddies boat. X4D is the hands down best IMO. Install it and forget about it. It just works. Batteries seem to last about 100 hours. The older Fish Hawks ate batteries but, not the X4 and X4D. No need to disturb your rigger cable with the Fish Hawk.

I tried 7 strand wire for the first time last week and what a mess. I'm definitely doing something wrong because three 1000' spools went in the trash bucket this past week. The wire kept forming loops in it that would get caught under the wraps on the spool and kink up on me. ...

I had the same issue with bright Malin 2 weeks ago. I cut the line at the kink and returned it to the tackle store. The owner said I was the second guy in 1 week to return Malin for this issue. He has never had complaints until 2 weeks ago. He refunded my money. Apparently Malin put out a bad batch. Switched to camo Malin and it wound right up as sweet as expected.

My 28 Penn Yan IO wanders but, it averages out to a pretty straight line in the end. It wanders plus and minus about 5 degrees but generally averages out to a straight heading. It is only an issue when going in and out of the Little Salmon River where navigation is tight.

TX-44's definately pull all coppers out well. They put quite a beating on the line though. I snapped a line last year using 30 lb braid and then upgraded to 40lb. I borke off a 400 copper with 40 lb braid near the rod on Sunday in the chop. Lost the board and the whole copper before we could circle back and grab it. A quick $100 to the lake gods. Actually, I got the board with a boat hook and it then slipped off the hook and sank but, not before getting the braid in the prop and rudder. Went diving to clear the boat. Fun stuff. Diving under the boat in 3-4 footers was....interesting!

Gamakatsu and Owner are the only hooks I've found to be sharp out of the box. Owner are stronger but, slightly less sharp.

I'm with Tim unless above 50 then I stretch them a bit more.

I run fixed sliders with spoons 5 feet above a F/F without difficulty. Put it down slowly and bring it up with the rigger or with A FISH. I sometime fix a 6 inch SD 8-10 feet above a F/F. You need to remain aware of what you are doing to avoid tangles. If you forget and pop a rod, you might have a nice tangle. I also run a self spinning bait head above a F/F. There are no rules about what you can do except the state limits the number of lures on a line. Run what you want and see what works. Just be aware that the cheater fixed closely above the ball is there to attract fish to the bait off the ball. So if you are catching fish on the ball lure, your fixed cheater helped get it there. If you fix farther away from the ball, it is to target different depths and your cheater is intened as its own attractor to pull in hgher fish.

A simple means for fixing a slider is to use a large coast lock snap around the line then put a small rubber band through the clip and around the line. One half hitch holds it snuggly. A quick pull will break the band when you get it up to the rod. You can also just keep reeling and he rod tip will push it down the line. Reelers choice.

You answered your own question. Stop it manually to remove the fixed cheater.

I run 30 pound mono between a snubber and the flasher. Never had a break off that I can recall. I use the same with spoons or J-plugs. For trout I run 20 pound flouro unless I think kings may be prowling the same area.

wow tim u opened a can of worms with just that one LOL

see ya soon

fshnwmn

Yeah, I expected the earth worm to generate the discussion.......

Most of the copper incidents with other boats are during the fall stage when everyone is congregating in 100 or less. A 300 copper does not reach back much farther than a dipsy stretched to 300. If you cross a stern within danger of a 300 copper, you may very well take out their dipsies as well.

I took a guy out last month for his first trolling trip. He is a master fisherman who travels around the world chasing all sorts if fish but, he had never trolled for salmon. He commented on how technical trolling is. He was amazed at how much you need to master with each different technique: sink rates, presentations, line characteristics, speeds, deployment techniques, turn effects etc. Copper requires a unique skill set that once learned and mastered, takes most of the angst out of the equation and yields a very effective tool for catching fish. The techniques need to be learned. Time and experience will allow you to run it with confidence. If someone approaches your stern too closely, you can speed up for a bit and reel in a bit of backing. Both will allow you to protect your rig. 

Had an interesting day last Saturday in Mexico Bay - I caught 8 different species trolling between 100 and 190 FOW. Started with a nice King on a double glow ghost spoon on a 10 color and then followed it up with a coho on the same rig. Then came a steelhead followed by a large rainbow on sliders. After a few more kings and steelhead, I released a 23 inch Atlantic and finished with several browns, one of which had a lamprey. The lamprey made for the 7th species but, it went back in pieces. Oh yeah, the 8th species was an earth worm that came on a rigger. It didn't put up much of fight as it was only 1 1/2 inches long. I'm surprised it survived in 100 FOW. I did catch a mooneye on a spoon the day prior so, 9 species in back-to-back outings. IIR, the most species I've caught in one day was 5 prior to this. 

I was targeting steelhead for the LOC so I was running 2 riggers for salmon and the remaining lines were cores on boards. Most kings came on the riggers though several came on the cores. The sliders and cores brought in a good number of steelhead and a few browns over the weekend, regretfully I missed the steelhead leader board by several ounces. 

10 AWG wires.

Catfish Creek Marina seems to have some open slips.

Started showing up on East end but, not too bad as of yet. 

Nothing works except clothing. Most of the problem is on legs, especially ankles through socks. Buy some very thin, nylon trousers and hem them extra long so they bunch over your ankles when sitting. You will not ever get bitten again on your legs and ankles. The thin pants are cooler than most shorts because the material is very light and airy in the waist/crotch area. When it gets hot, spray them with water and they will quickly evaporate and cool you. I found an inexpensive pair at Cabela's and have also seen the same thing from Sims but, for more money. A buddy tried hospital scrubs this weekend and they were effective but, not as cool in the heat. There are also shirts made from similar materiel if you seem to have fly issues above the waist. I've not needed the shirt myself.

The pants are 100% effective if you hem them long. They are not the best looking coothing but those that are important to you won't notice and those that might notice are not important (plus, they will be looking at the blood and scales an your cloths anyway).

Jekyll what was your down speed to hit that deep with a #1?  I don't think it is possible at 2.5 mph. Maybe at 1.5 mph.

Would have been 2.0 to 2.2 on the Depth Raider that day as I was dredging up August Kings. The setting would have been 2 to 2.5.

Vanish is aptly named - fish vanish when using it. I only use Seagar and P-line flourocarbon.

I use #1 down to 100+. I have hit bottom in 120 feet with a #1. When I start using copper and cores off boards, I switch to mag dipsies in order to go as deep with less line out to avoid tangling with my board lines.

Load some Power Pro on the spool and tie on a small swivel then tie the wire to the other end with a wire knott. I do this with Okuma Convector 30Ds to get a full spool on my dipsies.

I've had 13 fish in the boat for the last 5 days on the water. That includes several lakers and skippies. Most years would return 50-60 fish in that time. I've spent about $600 on gas for truck and boat for those fish. Paying my dues to Poseidon now in exchange for a better summer and fall. Good thing my wife fishes and understands.

I now run 3 riggers off a 10 foot beam versus 4 and am happy. I only use the center rigger when I run more than 6 lines and even then, I often leave the 3rd rigger stowed and run a junk line down the chute instead.

Blacks for salmon and steelhead. Rubber bands for browns.

Not so sure if 300 yards of 30lb fireline or power pro will fill an Okuma 30D. I've got 150 yards of 30lb big game under 1000 feet of wire to fill a 30D. Line counters are more accurate when the spool is full.