mr 580

My depth raider has been reliable and trouble free.  Like others have said pros and cons with both depth raider ad fish hawk.  If I was buying a unit today, I would probably go with the fish hawk as I think they have a bigger market share and a good reputation for customer service.  Depth raider decent price/product from a small company.  The smart troll I kind of view as a item that is used as a complement to a speed and temp system rather than a direct competitor.  For someone wanting additional info good tool, but for basic info a rigger mount speed temp unit is the way to go.

I'll share a couple pictures of my slide diver setups.  If you're fishing Lake Ontario exclusively the regular slide diver (no light bite arm)works fine- I run surgical tubing under the lock arm and add a couple of beads at back to protect the swivel knot.  I always run a leader back to the lure and I vary length depending on spoon or flasher fly.  

For light bites I add a short piece of the small clear tubing that comes with the diver to use with braid.  This slides over the light bite arm so your line doesn't fall out of the arm.  This tip is a time saver for setting lights as you don't have to watch or put line back in arm.   I also add a couple beads to protect that knot as well.  

With wire I add a small section of braid to attach the mono to slide on.  I put a drop of glue on the wire to braid knot to lock it.  For mono I'm using Maxima 40lb leader material which seems to hold up longer than the 30lb I used to use.  Mono leader is pretty reasonable in price for a coil of it.  These setups have worked well for me. Never had breakoff issues and only maintenance is changing the slide mono when it gets difficult to let out.

Weather.com had a story from a day or two on coverage on the lakes.  Percentage of coverage is up in last week but still pretty small percentage.  After next weeks cold snap could change.  Agree most of sites are down.

Lake Erie is pretty much open-satellite pics show some ice in far western basin.  So the lake effect machine is still cranking.

Contact CB’s Saltwater Outfitters on Siesta Key.  They could offer suggestions.  They have bait, tackle, guides and rent boats.  I rented a boat from them a few years ago.

I’ve had one for a few years- I’ll do the best I can with questions.

Dale, I wish I could get back to the Oak some but I stay busy down here between Chautauqua and Erie.  I like salmon fishing but from a business standpoint getting the guide license and working the home lake was a no brainer. Hope you are catching fish on those spoons I gave you.

On Lake O I’m pretty careful with currents before I run 2 divers per side.  If spread doesn’t square up I stick with one and honestly one usually gets job done.  Less seems to be more more often than not.  If you run 2 divers keep them at least 2 numbers apart and let them out slow.

Using the standard weight I use more of 2.5 to a 3 to 1 ratio.  The 2 to 1 to me is for the ultimate weight.  I usually start a little high then let line out if the diver doesn’t go.  I have been using 40lb mono leader material for the diver to slide on-seems to hold up better tan the 30lb Big Game I used to use.  You’ll know when it starts to curl up at rod dip when you are setting leader length.

You can get beyond 50 feet with std weight and big ring pulling a spoon.  With a flasher fly then you might want to go with weight kit.  I run SD’s and 50 is the point I start thinking about adding the weight kit.  I always run a ring, but I know guys who do well without them.  Some of it is personal preference and how you like to see your rods load up.

My board is 42” long by 16” deep.

Attached is a pic of the pvc cleaning table I made for my boat.  It sets on my perpendicular 4 Traxstech rod holders and is held in place by a bungie under the rod holders and the lip of the front moulding.  My boat has an under the gunnel rod rack and it stored standing up in that area.  I haven't done any on the water cleaning recently so if someone thought it could work them just PM me and I'd likely let it go.  Board worked fine-just had to wash down side of boat and rod holders if blood spilled.   

Dealing through a broker can be tricky.  If the broker is just working as an agent for a fee, the broker may be letting the seller set the price then marking it up by his percentage.  In that case, the broker has minimal incentive other than his commission.  If the broker functions as a dealer and the seller is looking at buying a replacement through the dealer, you could have some leverage.  The broker/dealer would be looking at 2 deals not 1 with the second moving some of his inventory and additional margin. Also a word of caution on relying on “book values” for pricing.  I was in the heavy equipment industry prior to retirement and we went away from guide books as a pricing tool years ago.  Most were merely a depreciation schedule based on published number like MSRP and were not connected to actual market by any reporting process.  We used real time market numbers for comparative units from internet research for pricing.  Generally the only time “book value” was discussed was with finance or insurance issues.  From a negotiating standpoint as a buyer, I would use comparative boat prices and pictures to justify my offer.  Book values are best left to the bean counters and bankers.

Mercury has a online prop selector where you input your boat info- hull type, engine/drive, weight and application.  Seems like a good place to start.  I don’t know specs on your 5.0 engine, but tend to think that at 5,500 rpm you are pretty much maxed out. A higher numerical pitch should pull rpm down.  I had a 5.7 mercury that would run about 5000 at wot.  Reducing weight or moving it forward would also help.

Might want to start the refund process.  When Frank Kittrick from Amish Outfitters says that they are offering his products below wholesale and have no account setup makes a solid scam confirmation.  Think he is right about them “pirating” descriptions and layout from FishUSA as well.  There aren’t the margins in this stuff to offer those discounts along with free freight.  

Have you unloaded and loaded boat from trailer yet?  If you haven’t might want to try it first before making adjustments.  Looks to me that trailer was designed that way and it was meant to support the boat on both the bunks and rollers.  I have a bunk trailer for my Proline that doesn’t have rollers and my boat loads good on it.  You might also call the manufacturer and ask about that model trailer-I see they are still around.  Trying to make adjustments could open a can of worms. Hope the Proline works out good for you. The rear guide poles are a good addition.

Cannon makes a lock for STX or you can look at “mini cabinet locks” to match up from a variety of sources.  They go in mount that is predrilled and slotted for them.  I bought mine at Graingers probably Amazon has them to.

The mag 10 square mounting block is different than the new STX mount.  Bolt pattern for attachment is the same so new mount wouldn’t require new holes or different swivel base.  STX uses a horizontal screw through mount where mag 10 used a vertical screw.  New riggers come with the mounts.

With a brand new zero hour engine, I would follow the manufacturer instructions on break in time and rpm and not use any additives.  Once you have gotten past break in then I’d consider use of additives.  I run additives in my outboards and do use sea foam occasionally.  With a new engine I’d also change engine oil and filter after run in.

PM sent

Tuffishooker has it-Tom Mack spoon.  West Coast commercial spoon which explains packaging as they sell them by the dozen. Likely was made before Luhr Jensen was sold.  Commercial suppliers still offer Tom Mack spoons.

Check antenna connections.  If connections are OK, then good chance antenna has failed.  I went through this with an older global map.  Probably not worth buying a new antenna- find used one or go to new unit.

Sold pending payment.

Yes, these are available.  Price includes shipping within US and the Plano boxes.

Two lots of J Plugs- each lot has 20 #3 J Plugs and 12 #4 J Plugs.  $65.00 /lot including shipping in the US    Lot 1 Lot 2      Boxes are included.