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mr 580

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Everything posted by mr 580

  1. Earl is correct that you need 12 volt power to the display. You should also have coaxial cable from display to antenna that mounts on rigger, coated downrigger cable for signal and probe with 9 volt battery. Google Depth Raider and you should find info on install and termination for probe connection.
  2. Good to hear that board worked for you. Have a good season!
  3. Replaced one servo on my old Trollmaster 2 in 10 years. Was only issue I had with that one other than some waterproofing I did. Updated to Suzuki efi kicker year or two ago and have been happy with that Trollmaster 2 - some other choices out there that are probably good but I didn’t see a reason to change.
  4. In 12 to 16 FOW a couple colors of leadcore or small snap weight on a board are a couple better choices than trying to run a diver that shallow. Divers including SD’s are effective tools - that being said fishing them close to the bottom can be costly.
  5. The issue I had with Trollmaster 3 was that it was remote only with no backup if remote or it’s battery quit. I went with the hard wired Trollmaster 2 as I had good luck with that on my previous kicker. I guess I’d price the parts that you need to get the Trollmaster 3 working and decide if it was worth investing the $$$ or starting over.
  6. If you have Sealine Great Lakes Special 47LC’s, it could be bushing wear on the spool. When the bushings wear the spool will bind. Later versions have bearings. Could also be the wire binding coming off the spool- real important to spool the wire under a lot of tension to prevent it from digging in the spool.
  7. With big boards it is important to get the angle of your tow line as great as possible. Once your release or tow line contacts the water then that is effective width you can achieve with that board. So having your mast or tow point as high as possible creates your maximum distance. Same goes with your front rod going out the furthest by keeping it high creates the greatest angle. IMO a 19’ with 6 foot mast probably best with 2 lines per side based on tow line angle. For that application likely in lines would provide a greater spread. In lines make a lot of sense especially in smaller boat packages.
  8. A picture of what you have going on would help. If you do have a Digitrol 2 and the top mounted control pad has been disconnected usually that is because the pad has failed. The control pads for the Digitrol 2’s haven’t been available for years. Used to be able to do a work around by converting to Mag 10 switches and no control pad. Probably would need to find used parts as not much available for that vintage of riggers.
  9. Good description of surge brakes by Shakemsam and procedure to check system. Penetrating oil and patience are assets working on trailer brakes. Not hard just messy and dirty.
  10. Attached are a couple pics of 2022 Shorelander Single axle trailer with hydraulic surge brakes. I'm not sure the weight of your Alumacraft 175 and whether it requires brakes in New York. I'd check to see if you have a master cylinder under that plastic plug on the tongue and if you have a rubber hose brake line in the joint of the swing tongue. If your trailer came with brakes and someone pulled them off, it could be a problem if you ever have your trailer checked. Where I live, police have been checking trailers as it is an easy ticket for them. You could also check a parts list for your trailer and see if two tongues were offered. You shouldn't have brake components like breakaway and master cylinder if trailer has no brakes. Worth the time to check out before you have an issue. As far as the s hook that could be straightened or replaced with one from a bungie.
  11. Post a picture of the tongue of your trailer so we can see if you have brakes or not. Usually a “breakaway” is to pull brakes on if trailer detaches. The common S hooks on those likely found at a hardware or a trailer store - used on surge brake systems. Some safety chains use S hooks too- kind of important to know what you have and not just not hook up.
  12. Used LJ Deep Six’s on a guided Columbia River Buoy 10 trip a few years ago. Ran short leads on slow trolled cut plug herring into the current. Max lead length maybe 40’. IMO old time niche product with better options for the way we fish on the Great Lakes. My uncle that fished Lake Michigan in the 70’s would curse at the mention of deep sixes and pink ladies.
  13. Sure, remember you from the Oak. If you put the #3394002 number into fish307 site you will see a review from a customer that used the later board in his 10HS. I looked into your issue as I have a couple 10HS that I put boards in due to moisture. I sealed top and drilled a small drain hole in bottom-haven’t had an issue since. It might be worth a few calls to see if anybody has done that swap. Pretty simple wiring on Cannons so I don’t believe the boards are much different.
  14. Check with Fish 307 about using a Mag 10STX board #3394006 ilo of the obsolete Mag 10HS board #3394002. Sounds like the #3394006 will substitute by changing a spade terminal on one wire and using the 10STX wiring diagram. Looks like that board is in stock and little cheaper than the original one. Hope this works for you.
  15. Try putting a piece of rubber/vinyl hose over the vertical rails for the planer reel to “bite” into. I’ve found that to help.
  16. Just use your current Traxstech Swivel bases with your new riggers. IMO the Traxstech swivel is more durable than the Cannon. I also like the position of the swivel lock better on the Traxstech vs the Cannon. I have both on my boat.
  17. Poster/Seller hasn’t visited this site in 3 years. Unlikely to see any response.
  18. Mag 10HS (high speed) came standard with auto stop. Cable needs to be connected to spool correctly and you need isolators on the the terminal end. Won’t work with braid also.
  19. I have a Simrad autopilot with Seastar steering and the install took less than a quart of fluid to bleed and fill. IMO with the small amount of oil used there is little savings or reasons to use anything other than a manufacturer oil or a manufacturer accepted spec oil. Not worth risking a pump or system failure.
  20. Jann’s Netcraft is also a good source of single replacement guides. I’ve matched up replacements from them. Double footed replacements can be a bit more limited in choice. The old Ugly Sticks are worth keeping going.
  21. mr 580

    for sale : usa '93 17 ft. Starcraft

    When you “click” on the original posters name you can see the number of posts and most recent activity on this site by that poster. In this case OP has 4 posts and not visited since October 2017. Poster and Boat are long gone. Issue is with posters who only use sight for classifieds- NOT regularly contributing users of the forum.
  22. I’d check the new batteries in the remote with a volt meter- might have a weak one. If those are good, then I’d plug in the foot pedal if you have one-will tell you if problem is in remote or head.
  23. I think the 1st Spring ESLO I fished was 1979 with my 16’ StarCraft and 3 buddies. We pretty much had no clue what we were doing. Sent two of the guys up to weigh a fish while me and the other guy held the boat off the concrete wall on the Genesee River. The guy who caught the fish comes back PO’d that they kept his fish. I go up to see what was going on and come to find out the guy was in 2nd place. A fair amount of beer had lead to the confusion and by the end of the Derby he finished 1 place out of the money. A lot of good times and stories from those days.
  24. Glad you got it figured out. Some of the automated systems are a nightmare- things seem to work better when you get to talk to a human.
  25. I guess I’d try calling some US dealers and see if they ship to Canada. If they do I’d ask if they fill your order from one of their stock orders or add it to one of their orders. I don’t use Cisco stuff myself, but got some Traxstech stuff early last year by tagging onto a dealer order. I’m not sure but sounds like your Canadian location isn’t helping and availability here on things hasn’t been good either.
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