mr 580

My guess is that your dipsey is running higher than you think it is. I'd suggest you move a rigger higher and also play with your leads off the ball. Dipseys are a deadly tool but some days the fish want the riggers. I can see my riggers on electronics so I know where they are. Dipsey's I think I know, but have come to the conclusion they are probably higher than what I think usually.

Starting out I'd suggest you keep your cheater spoon on a rigger with a spoon. Easier to handle with a fish with two spoons on the line. Keep your flasher fly on its own rigger. Hope you have some success.

Before I had down speed I always used my rigger cables as a reference. I would make sure they laid back and I would also check my back riggers for lateral shift. I would try to minimize that lateral shift so my spread tracked straight. Speed and down temp one of the most important tools so it should be at the top of a wish list. Current is tough to make generalizations on as it varies so widely even in the same day.

I'm using 9 inch Amish Outfitters on my Cannon high speed riggers. Really takes the snap out when they stop at the water. I don't see any difference in blowback but ball does wiggle a bit more in the water. I'm using 13 lb ball on my back riggers and 10's on my side riggers. So far I'm pleased with what I see with the snubber over the slam the rigger took without them. I might try some of their 4 inch to see what they do as well.

Finally able to make my first trips after tearing Achilles tendon in May. 8/20 started inside after seeing a good screen. Made a couple passes pretty cold water with a few skippers so decided to move out. Ran to 27 line and setup. Once we hit 28 line had a consistent pick of quality steelhead with some kings mixed in. Pretty much a spoon bite with flashers being quiet. Did one mature and at least three teenagers. Kings seemed to want a little purple in spoon. Riggers gong 70 to 90 and wires 250 to 270. Did a couple on 300 copper and 10 color. Fleas weren't bad. Stayed west out to 30 line. Group was real happy and my leg held up OK. 8/21 went back to yesterdays numbers to start. Found fish farther east and out as far as 31 line. Did a mature right away on wire out 240. Again mostly spoon bite. Temp down around 90 with kings coming up as high as 70 on riggers. Steelhead throughout water column as had one hit a 300 copper as I was letting it out. Had a less experienced group so I kept my spread limited. Fleas were a problem on wire and a 20lb rigger rod. Rigger rods with Big Game 30lb and Blood Run 30lb flea line were fine. Kept 2 kings and 2 steelhead released the rest. Another happy group. Was good to be back in the seat of my 25 footer and if I stay away from the rough stuff my leg will stay under me. Mature kings were still silver so hope we have a few more weeks left.

Best bet is to stick with 10lb. I ran 13lb on mag 10's and ended up blowing out a motor. Parts for these older ones aren't easy to find either. Newer models are rated for 20lb.

A few years ago I updated several eagle claw dipsey rods and sold them for 20 to 25 bucks a piece with the twili tip. Had same issue with reel seat. We're an ok rod for what I paid for them.

I run both wire and braid dipseys. Braid doesn't require twilli tip or roller rod and is a little more forgiving to work with. Wire goes deeper and has a different signature. Really have to be careful of pigtails with the wire. If you are breaking off with dipsey my guess drag setting most likely issue. Braid to me is ok if targeting 50 feet and above.

If you are looking to take a break from Old Man Winter, check out the new R&R Rockin Rockers on R&R Tackles website @ www.mytacklebox.com . Dave has some new stuff coming for 2014 and these new spoon colors look good. Site was just updated.

I don't know if the small Yamaha electric start motors also have a pull cord. I do run an 8 hp Yamaha manual start on my Lund and a 9.9 on my ProLine. Both of those little four strokes do have alternators even on the manual start model so they charge my battery while I'm trolling. My 9.9 has tons of hours and has been great. Just keep the oil changed and it keeps ticking. My Lund's transom was setup for a kicker from the factory so I think you could add one pretty easy as well.

Running an 8" SD tighten your leads up to 22" or 23". If you are running a 10" SD I'd stretch the lead out. As far as speed I'll normally run 2.3 or 2.2 down at least. I have found lately that slowing to 2.1 or even 2.0 has given me a few more rips. If you are taking fish on a paddle I'd speed up a bit with a SD.

You might try Tuna's Reel Troubles for these rod clamps. I've had good luck with their web store for reel parts.

Dipsey size use 001 or 003. Yes to running spin doctors with wire dipsey's. If you are new to wire, would suggest you put a snubber behind the dipsey. Pretty tough to limit to two flasher fly combo's but something in a white/crushed glow or a green spin doctor along with white or green fly is a good starting place.

If you can't find the Cortland flea flicker line a good alternative is 30lb. Berkley Big game. The big game is readily available and pretty reasonable price wise. Tie in a short section of lighter leader and you are set. I use reels with lighter line when the fleas aren't bad. If I don't need to run the heavier stuff I don't.

The way you read the slide diver depth charts is the topline number is the setting you select on the diver-higher the number farther away from the boat. Right hand number is the depth you wish to achieve. The higher your setting the more line you need to achieve desired depth. Slide diver website www.slidediver.com has diive charts, tips and rigging instructions. Slide divers work well especially the light bites when you are dealing with small fish. Like anything the more you use them the more comfortable you'lll be running them. If you are unsure on setting number start with a 3.

I have tracks on both my boats and have either added track or wished I had. So go with more track than less. Check how your Lund is constucted as I think you will need some additional backing to support your track especially if you plan to add downriggers. For planer board line you can buy 130lb or 200 lb test planer line pretty reasonable and I find that lays on a mast reel better than the weed wacker line. A suggestion before you make a mast and a big board system, take a look at the in line board options. I think in line boards make sense especially in smaller boats.

I have been running a Trollmaster Pro 2 last couple years. Went with the digital as I thought it would give better range of control. Like the idle feature and ability to dial in my speed. Only negative I see is that it's not waterproof so you have to keep it protected. Have gotten it wet a few days but have been able to dry it out.

My experience with a LGC2000 was that they were very unreliable. After going through three of LGC2000's along with downtime and time on hold with Lowrance, I went to the LGC4000 when that became available. Have been running that at least two years with no problems. My opinion is if you have an LGC2000 that works you are probably lucky. Making the switch from an uptime standpoint probably worth considering. When the 2000's failed there was no warning. Would work one day then not acquire satellites the next.